I would have to ask someone more knowledgeable how quickly the tick will turn into something of a concern. Seeing a check engine light due to misfire will indicate certain damage.
Excessive camshaft lobe scoring/wear, metal shavings in oil, loss of compression and misfires in affected cylinder, unburned gasoline in the exhaust? I would get if fixed before there’s a need for a new engine unless you are in the middle of a desert and your life depends on it.
My 2018 Tahoe didn’t have the flex fuel sensor from the factory and didn’t have the E85 compatibility window sticker. Same with my 2021 Sequoia, but it’s really not worth converting it to E85 because there’s no ethanol sensor and the fuel/ignition parameters are calculated based on fuel trims...
Also, in addition to the forum check out this channel:
https://youtube.com/user/pmoore4321
One of the videos describes how to convert your 6.2 Yukon to E85.
All you really need is the sensor and the flex fuel tune. The high pressure fuel pump and injectors can already support it - hence you can run a supercharger on a stock cam and stock fuel system on premium gas. You will run out of fuel if you decide to do forced induction AND do E85.
You actually can run E85 in your Yukon. That was exactly what I did to my Tahoe (it was not flex fuel from the factory). The only missing portion of the flex fuel system can be easily added back - e.g. the ethanol sensor...
And finally, the option for the most paranoid (also me): get one of the vacuum oil suction devices and replace 1 gallon of ATF with every oil change through the dipstick. 1 gallon of Dexron VI is about $29 on Summit Racing.
Anecdotally the same 6l80e in Silverado prior to 2014 did not have the thermostat in the cooling line. I wouldn’t worry too much about the temperature and just replace the fluid and filter every 40k miles. My new Sequoia runs hotter, somewhere between 200 and 220 F. I will be switching to 100%...
I’ve seen good results with this mod year round:
https://globaltransmissionparts.com/6l80-6l90-sure-cool-cooler-flow-system-stl010/
It basically makes the ATF always circulate through the cooling circuit. My temperatures were 140-150 F in the highway during summer, 110 F in South Dakota winter...
I’ve anecdotally heard that replacing your engine air filter frequently also helps with fighting valve deposits. The theory behind it is that the clogged filter will create more intake vacuum and pull in more PCV vapors with oil mist in them.
Port injected 5.7 that gets 12 to 13 MPG anyone? The DI system adds complexity but definitely helps with efficiency.
I used a can of CRC cleaner at around 40,000 miles on my Tahoe and sprayed it right in front of the throttle plate. Not sure how much it helped, but the engine seemed smoother...
Mostly the new vacuum pump + vacuum pump belt (was going to replace with the front diff service at 50,000 miles) + 1 set of OEM wiper blades + 1 set of OEM air filters + 2 Mobil 1 oil filters. There’s some Dexron and DexCool, but shipping on those wouldn’t be my first choice.
Both are excellent vehicles. The Tahoe was more of a towing plain Jane rig and I don’t tow. I was missing some of the higher trim level features - mostly the adaptive radar cruise control. The Toyota has a lot of flaws but it just fits my needs better at this time.
Did the best LED lighting mod to the Tahoe to date: traded it in for the 2021 Sequoia Nightshade. I have some spare parts and maintenance items that I’m willing to donate if someone is interested.
I'm not sure how much these pictures will help. You can only see the internal LEDs during daytime when you perfectly level your eyes with the fog light.
I was getting around 20-21 real highway MPGs with the stock Michelin Energy Saver A/S tires and stock air dam. The inability to park next to the curb, occasional scraping the air dam and constant wondering ‘why does it look like a minivan’ soured the deal.
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