I replaced both tensioners and idler pully and belts. There is atill a high pitched whine that goes away if I rev it a little but comes back at idle. At this point I think I need to localize the sound. The components on upper belt are Water pump, Alternator, Power steering pump. Lower belt...
I just replaced the tensioner, idle pulley and serpentine belt and the squeal persists. high pitched whine like power steering belts of old but no wear present on the replaced belt. What should I check next?
Awesome, thanks. I could not find a seperate regulator listed anywhere for this. I just bought an aftermarket Alternator that says it's rated for 250amps, so hopefully this resolves the flickering I am getting now.
Thanks so much for your input. I am not getting rid of this truck until it...
I am replacing the Alternator for my vehicle I haven't removed anything under the hood yet, but Alternators are pretty straightforward. Can someone tell me where the voltage regulator is located in this model? Vin: 1GNEK13V14J117672 Is it built into the alternator?
i am about to put a meter...
Thanks for all the good comments. I have solid wheel chocks and I am familiar with the safety requirements. I was just looking for good advice about jack points. All good advice. Thanks to everyone who responded!
I have a 2004 tahoe that had the same issue, there is something on the top of the gas tank that was rusted out. I don't remember what it was, but it would not take gas either until that was fixed.
FYI, I used 6-Ohm 50-Watt resistors and it works fine. You need to do it for both sides. The OP said he wired different ones and the cruise worked. But maybe he didnt have lights on. Cruise will work in the daytime without lights on even without the reistors. But no bueno at night or when...
Can anyone here point me to a resource for or pictures of the subject item. I need to know where to safely lift and also place jack stands. I only plan to lift either the front or the back at any given time and put jack stands under so I can do maintence.
I am trying to build a circuit that makes use of knowing when the key is in the ignition and also when the door is open. i will get out the meter and find out the long way. I was hoping some had already tapped at least one of these things.
Thanks, I am needing a way to know from the power that is present or absent from the wiring harness that is hopefully running through or at least next to the fuse panel in the passenger compartment. I could test it all but I was hoping someone had already done that.
Is there electrically a way to tell if the key is in the ignition or the door is open? As in, power exists or does not at a specific fuse block point for each of these cases? I would like to know for both if possible. Thanks.
Yeah that's what I thought it was. I am reading 12v (or 14, but 12 makes more sense) even with that switch off. I am thinking some wiring is amis. I will try to dig up a diagram somewhere. Thanks for your help.
If that is the button right below the knob that controls the air ducts then it must have a problem. It doesn't matter whether that is on or off, the mirror is receiving 12v
Is that turned on by the defrost button in the center under the air? If so, I turned that off and power still remained. Maybe I havee a defective switch/relay or something?
I just popped off the passenger side mirror because it's cracked. two leads are attached to the mirror, I assume they are the leads for the heater element in the mirror. I hooked up a meter to the leads and they seem to be supplying voltage all the time when the key is in the ignition. It's...
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