01 Tahoe 5.3 tick then goes away

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DadsToy

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My 5.3 at start runs good. But at start up, after a couple of seconds there is no noise. After about 20 seconds there is what sounds like a lifter tick develop. I let it idle for about a minute it goes away. It doesn't come back after it has ran for a little bit. Could I really have a lifter going bad? And wander if I did a cam swap would it help or hurt it more? That is without removing the lifters of course. Was going to try the dowel rod tick to swap the cam.
Removing the cam would also show any excessive wear to the point you know you have an issue with the lifter. Just wonder if anyone has tried to swap cams to see if the it help the lifters?
 

OR VietVet

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Yes, check for exhaust manifold leak and if you have a broken bolt, there you go. Then if you do the cam, you just added on work that may require removing heads unless you use the clamp kits. seems when you have a broken bolt, they seem to always be at the ends of the heads.

Now, the reason I did a WOW on your post. Why would you do a cam and not replace lifters? What am I missing besides maybe just the extra cost?
 

Mudsport96

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Yes, check for exhaust manifold leak and if you have a broken bolt, there you go. Then if you do the cam, you just added on work that may require removing heads unless you use the clamp kits. seems when you have a broken bolt, they seem to always be at the ends of the heads.

Now, the reason I did a WOW on your post. Why would you do a cam and not replace lifters? What am I missing besides maybe just the extra cost?
If it had less than 300k on the engine, i would reuse the lifters. But the lifter trays may be worn so that could cause an issue. I personally know 2 people that reused lifters on 5.3s and have had no problems. One used a BTR Torque cam and the other was a summit brand cam. In the grand scheme of things, it is your money spend it how you want. But if the lifters stay locked in their trays when removing the cam.. they and the trays are fine. Hell ive seen 500k engines unopened, the lifters dont know what cam they are on they just roll. And as long as it isnt some 650 lift job stockers are just fine i think.
 

DirtDigler

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Do you drive it every day? Mine sits for weeks at a time and I have that ticking at start up too (not every time). Couldn't be an exhaust leak because it goes away before the engine would get hot enough to seal it. Neighbor has it as well and they too don't drive it every day. I'm thinking the oil just needs a minute to circulate .
 

ncalvo

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Not sure if this is good advise or not but use synthetic oil and after your truck is warm stomp on it get your RPMs up there
I do it frequently and I don't really notice a slight tick at startup anymore.

Also I am about to replace my manifolds/gaskets/bolts (2 broken bolts)
 
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DadsToy

DadsToy

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could be a busted off exhaust manifold bolt. once warmed up the leak seals off.
I thought about that too. Have a broken header bolt on on the drivers side. But the sound is coming from the passanager side where the sound is coming from. I even installed the temp repair bracket on the header to seal it. I even seen a spark plug do this where it was arching from the insulator. Once it warm up and expanded it went away. More investigating.
 

B-train

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Agreed with above. If it sits for long periods, that could explain a lifter tick until oil pressure gets up to *****. I'd maybe try a good OEM filter and oil change as well. How often do you change oil?

I just got a 2008 lucerne from my in-laws with the 3.8L. They were crappy at best on maintenance, but it's free for the daughter. Has a lifter tick and they were going to junk it. I poured in 1/2 quart of ATF and let it idle for 20 min - quiet as a mouse. Had a little noise the next day - added another 1/2 quart and let the daughter drive it around the yard (yes we look like rednecks occasionally ). The car is now quiet on each startup and is due for an oil change. Just some pointers of what worked for me.
 
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DadsToy

DadsToy

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Yes, check for exhaust manifold leak and if you have a broken bolt, there you go. Then if you do the cam, you just added on work that may require removing heads unless you use the clamp kits. seems when you have a broken bolt, they seem to always be at the ends of the heads.

Now, the reason I did a WOW on your post. Why would you do a cam and not replace lifters? What am I missing besides maybe just the extra cost?
To replace the lifters is a major job. You have to remove the heads to get to them. So that would be a total engine gasket kit, new lifter trays, oil pump etc. More time, lot more money! I can get a cam for $89, timing gasket set for $20 and I am rolling. But all of that would be out the window if you remove the cam and it show wear on the lobes. Then you know the lifters are toast. If I wasn't so cheap of a guy. I would pull the motor and rebuild it. But I don't have an engine lift, engine stand and a car lift to get under it. And time. The worst part is trying to get the trans bolts out. If it wasn't for that I would pull it. I had thought about just doing it with it in car.
 

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