01 Tahoe won't start... No clicking

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bottomline2000

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Check the connections on the starter and the ground wire. It's behind the power steering pump on the block. EZ access to it from underneath. It may be loose..
 

SLCHOE

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Pull the battery terminals off and check them for corrosion. Unless the battery is so sulfated that it actually acts as a resistor, you should be able to jump it if you have clean battery connections.

Battery_Cable.jpg


If they are corroded, get a container of almost boiling hot water and pour it over the terminals (AFTER YOU HAVE THEM DISCONNECTED AND AWAY FROM THE BATTERY). This is a cheap and easy way to clean off the corrosion. Forget the coca-cola and baking soda crap you've heard. Very hot water. Clean the battery side posts with a wire brush and reattach the battery terminals. See if it cranks.

My educated guess is that your battery is weak and sulfated. A load test after a charge would decide it. The flickering lights and the pulsating brake pedal lead me to draw this conclusion. When it fired right up later I would bet the ambient temperature outside was much warmer. Electronics do funny things within the 7 -10 volt range. The buzzing pedal was most likely the ABS modulator trying to energize then de-energining and so forth.

Batteries don't work so well in the cold when they are weak.
 
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wiplash2001

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Pull the battery terminals off and check them for corrosion. Unless the battery is so sulfated that it actually acts as a resistor, you should be able to jump it if you have clean battery connections.

Battery_Cable.jpg


If they are corroded, get a container of almost boiling hot water and pour it over the terminals (AFTER YOU HAVE THEM DISCONNECTED AND AWAY FROM THE BATTERY). This is a cheap and easy way to clean off the corrosion. Forget the coca-cola and baking soda crap you've heard. Very hot water. Clean the battery side posts with a wire brush and reattach the battery terminals. See if it cranks.

My educated guess is that your battery is weak and sulfated. A load test after a charge would decide it. The flickering lights and the pulsating brake pedal lead me to draw this conclusion. When it fired right up later I would bet the ambient temperature outside was much warmer. Electronics do funny things within the 7 -10 volt range. The buzzing pedal was most likely the ABS modulator trying to energize then de-energining and so forth.

Batteries don't work so well in the cold when they are weak.
Thanks for the reply. My battery was only a month old and I cleaned up the terminals then but just to make sure they are perfect I'll clean them again with your method.
 
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wiplash2001

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Ok I went and had my battery tested and it was only at 5 volts. The guy said he's never seen an Optima battery go bad. I will install it tomorrow.
 

SLCHOE

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Check your terminals before you hook them up. Also, once the truck is running, put a voltmeter on the battery and see if you are getting about 14.4 Volts. If you're not, your alternator is not charging and that is causing your battery to go bad.
 

bottomline2000

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Ok I went and had my battery tested and it was only at 5 volts. The guy said he's never seen an Optima battery go bad. I will install it tomorrow.
I was going to mention this before but I went thru about 4 optima batteries..3 red and 1 yellow before switching to a diehard platinum. It's a rebranded Odesssy battery. Seems to be more reliable than the optimas I had. I know Sears stopped carrying the optimas..
 
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SLCHOE

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I was going to mention this before but I went thru about 4 optima batteries..3 red and 1 yellow before switching to a diehard platinum. It's a readied Odesssy battery. Seems to be more reliable than the optimas I had. I know Sears stopped carrying the optimas..

Those are great batteries and great for the price.
 

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