1997 Tahoe Rebuilding Front End

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

1997-Rangehoe

TYF Newbie
Joined
Apr 2, 2016
Posts
9
Reaction score
0
Location
NorthWest
Hey everyone!

I am new to this thing after years of just looking for info from google. I just took off the rear 3 inch blocks and loosened my torsion bars back to oem height. The rear was swaying to much. So I just bought the rear and front sway bar bushing kit and linkage from Energy suspension the greasable ones. I also just got the new innner and outter tie rods, upper and lower bushings and idler arm and pitman arm. I am doing this to stop the jerking and crappy steering while driving. After i install this friday i am getting coopers 265/75/16 and getting rid of these 33s. Anything you guys think i am missing while i do this??
 

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
Do the ball joints to while you're there. No reason not to. obviously an alignment will be required. Depending on how old the truck is, your steering box might be responsible for some steering play. There is a hex nut inside a nut on top of the box - front, that you can tighten up a little at a time (1/4 turn) and then retighten the outer nut and see how she does. I rebuilt my front end after running 37s on it and the nut trick tightened everything up nicely.

Good luck
 
OP
OP
1997-Rangehoe

1997-Rangehoe

TYF Newbie
Joined
Apr 2, 2016
Posts
9
Reaction score
0
Location
NorthWest
I did the nut trick already. i dont want to ruin the gear box. the nut is for pressure. yes i will be doing the ball joints. i mean to say ball joint not bushings lol.
 

Dneel81

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Posts
288
Reaction score
42
Location
OKC
Fair amount of work ahead of you, especially the LCA bushings. The rented press is difficult to use. I used an old axle shim to help get the bushing back in place since the separator plates (short pipe rings) didn't allow the press to work properly. Maybe you have a shop press you can use?
 

willxfs

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2010
Posts
292
Reaction score
72
I replaced all my front end parts like you are doing (except control arm and sway arm bushings) a couple years ago. I used all Moog parts. Its a fairly lengthy process but worth it if you plan to keep and drive the truck alot. Be sure to get the 4wd adapter rental tool for the rental ball joint press. At oreilly where I rented my tools, it is two separate tools. I didn't realize they offered it and had to make shift a spacer section to get the lower ball joints pressed on. Also, I discovered the lower ball joints didn't want to press in straight. No matter what I did, they wanted to go in cocked. I finally figured out that by rotating the ball joint press 180 degrees, it would drive the ball joint back the other way and straighten it out. I had to rotate the press several times before the ball joint would go in straight. Maybe that's a product of a crappy press, I dont know. Also, there are two different sizes of lower ball joints. I ordered the wrong size and had to buy them locally which were almost twice the cost of rock auto. If your upper ball joints haven't been replaced yet, then you will have to grind off the rivet heads and drill it out to remove the ball joint. The uppers are a breeze if they have been changed before. Last month I replaced the steering rag joint which is fairly easy but more grinding required to remove the original rag joint. Just remove the whole steering midsection from the engine bay and it will be a breeze. Good luck with the project! It will worth it. Also, If you decide to replace the steering gear box in the future, I just installed a new one from red head and it works great!
 

jerryjoe28

That Guy
Joined
Nov 24, 2013
Posts
2,709
Reaction score
671
Location
cabot AR
I replaced all my front end parts like you are doing (except control arm and sway arm bushings) a couple years ago. I used all Moog parts. Its a fairly lengthy process but worth it if you plan to keep and drive the truck alot. Be sure to get the 4wd adapter rental tool for the rental ball joint press. At oreilly where I rented my tools, it is two separate tools. I didn't realize they offered it and had to make shift a spacer section to get the lower ball joints pressed on. Also, I discovered the lower ball joints didn't want to press in straight. No matter what I did, they wanted to go in cocked. I finally figured out that by rotating the ball joint press 180 degrees, it would drive the ball joint back the other way and straighten it out. I had to rotate the press several times before the ball joint would go in straight. Maybe that's a product of a crappy press, I dont know. Also, there are two different sizes of lower ball joints. I ordered the wrong size and had to buy them locally which were almost twice the cost of rock auto. If your upper ball joints haven't been replaced yet, then you will have to grind off the rivet heads and drill it out to remove the ball joint. The uppers are a breeze if they have been changed before. Last month I replaced the steering rag joint which is fairly easy but more grinding required to remove the original rag joint. Just remove the whole steering midsection from the engine bay and it will be a breeze. Good luck with the project! It will worth it. Also, If you decide to replace the steering gear box in the future, I just installed a new one from red head and it works great!

wasn't going to say anthing about how much of a PITA the lower ball joints can be with the rental press but he is dead on! the 2nd time I did mine (use moog the first time) I got to use a actual GM press for these trucks. If your know any one with a GM one or a nice one like snap-on than u defiantly want to ask them if u can barrow it. the rental one just doesn't cut it!
 
OP
OP
1997-Rangehoe

1997-Rangehoe

TYF Newbie
Joined
Apr 2, 2016
Posts
9
Reaction score
0
Location
NorthWest
So FINALL! all done. too me forever. I changed upper and lower ball joints, sway bar bushings front and rear, center links rear also, inner and outter tie rods, control arm bushing where still good, hub assembly, added steering stabilzer shock, idler arm, pitman arm, rag bushing, also relubed the steering shaft, steering wheel sensor sensor, lubed drive lines, changed transfer case fluid, rear end fluid change, 4wd fluid change, cleaned cv's relubed, front brakes, rear brakes, resurfaced the drums and rotors. New 265/75/16 cooper atp tires, alignment. Ill tell you what! this broke my ass off doing this! however it rolls like a dream now. feels like a brand new TAHOE. I will be changing the spider injector, intake gasket, timing cover, lt4 hotcam and beehive springs next! I cant wait, i have to wait for the cash flow tho.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
131,998
Posts
1,860,654
Members
96,397
Latest member
SatyrAngel
Top