HighRollerRich
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2009
- Posts
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Also posted on GMFS and GMT400
It was either stop driving my Tahoe and maybe sell
OR
Put serious money into it and save it.
I couldn't sell it. The exterior is in too nice of a condition, I built it, It was going to get its overhaul.
Tahoe: 1999 2dr, 169k, 5.7L, rebuilt 4L60E, rebuilt NP246, 3.42's, 35/12.5/17. 4.5-6" Superlift
CURRENT STATE: I drove it probably 500 miles total in the past 2 years. It was a toxic waste of leaking chemicals and worn out parts. I kept it clean but internally, it had a cancer.
GOAL: To turn the Tahoe into a mechanically reliable DD. I wanted it to be able to drive straight at 80mph down the highway and be able to sit in rush hour traffic when it is 110 degrees outside. I wanted a modern day reliable Chevrolet Tahoe with the exterior of what it is, the last year model of the 2 door Tahoe.
PROBLEMS:
1. NP246 and its slip yokes. with lift it constantly leaks from both slip yokes. replacing them will only last 500 miles. Tired of adding fluid. Lift angles didn't help, even with front high angle drive shaft.
2. All leaks. Front diff, ball joints, cv axles, oil cooler mount, Master cylinder, HEAD GASKET, other engine O rings....
3. Entire front end. I mean entire. Everything except the literal metal portion of the control arms, calipers, and shocks was replaced.
I found a mechanic in Dallas who would work on it in his free time. He had a gated, covered, secured shop and kept the Tahoe elevated on a lift for 3 of those months. I would bring him the parts I wanted, he would charge me labor. I owe him big time for allowing me to order Rock Auto and save thousands.
Banda Automotive in Dallas Texas. Go To Them.
If I would have known it was going to be this long and needed this many parts, I would not have done it. Every weekend he found something new that was broken or worn. I stuck to the plan though, since it was already torn apart it would be cheaper to replace now than bring it back later.
Here is a parts list I put together in excel. I'm missing a battery plus $200 worth of fluids and other supplies. I also got an alignment and other small interior items.
RESULTS:The Tahoe drives better than it EVER has. It drives straight and with the steering wheel centered. The steering is TIGHT! the first time I turned the wheel it felt like it was in 4wd. It took a while to get used to. IT STOPS on a dime. Seriously, the NBS master cylinder should be a must with bigger tires on an OBS. All leaks that were present beforehand are sealed. NO squeaks from the suspension. The old wheel hubs should have fallen off. I couldnt believe my eyes when I saw them afterwards. They would drop down by 20* if you were looking at them from the side!
I cannot explain how well this Tahoe drives now. I have complete confidence in it to meet my goal listed above, mechanically reliable DD.
Next Steps:
-I have one small leak coming from the overflow line on radiator right where the rubber line connects by sliding over the nozzle on the radiator. I'll firm that up and replace the radiator cap.
-Replace all shocks. The front end is very very tight and I forgot to replace shocks.
-I haven't connected 4wd yet. I don't have the rod from tcase to manual floor shift. I also have to wire the front actuator to a tcase harness.
-my sub doesnt work now. I have a thread on here about it
-Fix dash controls for AC and get AC leak fixed and charged
-Replace interior. Carpet and wiring for many other systems.
Small radiator overflow hose leak, mentioned above
This pic is fully extended on a lift. But does the rear driveshaft look too short? It compresses about half of visible portion back into tcase when standing on its own.
Cost: parts on spreadsheet + roughly $300 more + Labor totals = $3,512.74. It also took 4 months of time.
It was either stop driving my Tahoe and maybe sell
OR
Put serious money into it and save it.
I couldn't sell it. The exterior is in too nice of a condition, I built it, It was going to get its overhaul.
Tahoe: 1999 2dr, 169k, 5.7L, rebuilt 4L60E, rebuilt NP246, 3.42's, 35/12.5/17. 4.5-6" Superlift
CURRENT STATE: I drove it probably 500 miles total in the past 2 years. It was a toxic waste of leaking chemicals and worn out parts. I kept it clean but internally, it had a cancer.
GOAL: To turn the Tahoe into a mechanically reliable DD. I wanted it to be able to drive straight at 80mph down the highway and be able to sit in rush hour traffic when it is 110 degrees outside. I wanted a modern day reliable Chevrolet Tahoe with the exterior of what it is, the last year model of the 2 door Tahoe.
PROBLEMS:
1. NP246 and its slip yokes. with lift it constantly leaks from both slip yokes. replacing them will only last 500 miles. Tired of adding fluid. Lift angles didn't help, even with front high angle drive shaft.
2. All leaks. Front diff, ball joints, cv axles, oil cooler mount, Master cylinder, HEAD GASKET, other engine O rings....
3. Entire front end. I mean entire. Everything except the literal metal portion of the control arms, calipers, and shocks was replaced.
I found a mechanic in Dallas who would work on it in his free time. He had a gated, covered, secured shop and kept the Tahoe elevated on a lift for 3 of those months. I would bring him the parts I wanted, he would charge me labor. I owe him big time for allowing me to order Rock Auto and save thousands.
Banda Automotive in Dallas Texas. Go To Them.
If I would have known it was going to be this long and needed this many parts, I would not have done it. Every weekend he found something new that was broken or worn. I stuck to the plan though, since it was already torn apart it would be cheaper to replace now than bring it back later.
Here is a parts list I put together in excel. I'm missing a battery plus $200 worth of fluids and other supplies. I also got an alignment and other small interior items.
RESULTS:The Tahoe drives better than it EVER has. It drives straight and with the steering wheel centered. The steering is TIGHT! the first time I turned the wheel it felt like it was in 4wd. It took a while to get used to. IT STOPS on a dime. Seriously, the NBS master cylinder should be a must with bigger tires on an OBS. All leaks that were present beforehand are sealed. NO squeaks from the suspension. The old wheel hubs should have fallen off. I couldnt believe my eyes when I saw them afterwards. They would drop down by 20* if you were looking at them from the side!
I cannot explain how well this Tahoe drives now. I have complete confidence in it to meet my goal listed above, mechanically reliable DD.
Next Steps:
-I have one small leak coming from the overflow line on radiator right where the rubber line connects by sliding over the nozzle on the radiator. I'll firm that up and replace the radiator cap.
-Replace all shocks. The front end is very very tight and I forgot to replace shocks.
-I haven't connected 4wd yet. I don't have the rod from tcase to manual floor shift. I also have to wire the front actuator to a tcase harness.
-my sub doesnt work now. I have a thread on here about it
-Fix dash controls for AC and get AC leak fixed and charged
-Replace interior. Carpet and wiring for many other systems.
Small radiator overflow hose leak, mentioned above
This pic is fully extended on a lift. But does the rear driveshaft look too short? It compresses about half of visible portion back into tcase when standing on its own.
Cost: parts on spreadsheet + roughly $300 more + Labor totals = $3,512.74. It also took 4 months of time.
