2001 Tahoe Oil Pressure Gauge Acting Up

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huffster329

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When my Tahoe is idling the Oil Pressure Gauge flutters. As soon as I give it some throttle it straightens out. I'm thinking maybe the sensor is crapping out but wanted to get another opinion before I order one. Any ideas? I made a quick video so you can see exactly what it's doing.


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rockola1971

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Could be. Could also be the wire connection at the OPS(Loose,dirty/corroded), Dirty connection at the connector behind the instrument cluster either on the truck side or the IC side, bad solder joint in the oil pressure circuit in the instrument cluster or even a bad stepper motor. Start with the easiest and free to check first. The wire are the OPS.
 
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huffster329

huffster329

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Could be. Could also be the wire connection at the OPS(Loose,dirty/corroded), Dirty connection at the connector behind the instrument cluster either on the truck side or the IC side, bad solder joint in the oil pressure circuit in the instrument cluster or even a bad stepper motor. Start with the easiest and free to check first. The wire are the OPS.

I'll climb in there this weekend and check it out. If I do end up replacing the sensor I should probably replace the filter in there too, correct? Anyone know the GM part number for that filter?
 

05Single

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Doesn't the stepper motor either work or it doesn't, normally doesn't go crazy, always been my experience. Cause it still reads when the accelerator is pressed.
I vote ops too or like rockola said corrosion somewhere inline.
If you know anybody with a cluster to swap out and see if it's replicated on the gauge. I do that with parts with my cousin and his Silverado sometimes.
 

cmc76

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sensor is an easy swap. I know some people on youtube vids disconnect the fuel rail. I was able to do it with a socket, extension and a swivel. left everything else on. took no more than 10 minutes total.
 

mals

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Wow that's gotta be annoying
I recently replaced all the stepper motors in my cluster while I was in there replacing the burnt out bulbs. I had a bad solder joint on one of the fuel gauge pins, and it acted just like the one in the video. Luckily the fuel gauge is at the bottom of my cluster and didn't interact with any of the others. Pulled the cluster, desoldered and resoldered the pin to the board, and it worked normally after the reinstall.

That's all to say that I agree it is likely the OPS. I swapped mine out by feel. From what I understand if you want to pull and replace the screen it is best to pull the intake and take care of a few other preventative maintenance items while you are at it.
 
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