2003 Yukon..4wd Dilemma. Help!

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TooTurntDad

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I traded a VW Passat for a 2003 Yukon I have. Its a bit of a long story but thats for a rainy day.

So, after seller dishonesty and my error of not being more... “****” about inspecting the truck until I took it... Im left with... A lemon.

So, heres whats going on:

When I got on the highway I figured the truck could do highway speeds. Nope, not at all. Anything over 65; brake light goes on, abs light trips, speedometer goes crazy, kicks out of OD and goes into a lower gear, then neutrals itself out before going back into OD again once under 65mph.

I get home finally (5.5hrs later) and look around it in my garage with much better lighting. My guesses to my problem were a bad transfer case speed sensor and bad wheel speed sensors. So I replace them; do a test drive and the problem didnt get fixed. So I figured, “hmm lets try something else” so I go and see if its 4wd related. I basically find out my push button doesnt work. Itll light up before the Yukon is officially started but thats it.

I got to tinkering with it some today and found that the previous owner took out the front driveshaft. I had the rear end lifted, turned the truck on, and seen that the the transfer case was spinning which lead me to believe that Im stuck in 4Hi. I tried to manually do it by removing the motor and taking a pair of channel locks and turn it counter clockwise two clicks (my guess) and hope it kicked it out of 4wd. Took it for a test drive and found myself with little to no power. Went back in and put it back to its original position and decided to ask questions before I end up breaking something.



So, do these 4wd systems require a front driveshaft because I have access to one from a parts truck local, but I feel it still wouldnt resolve my service 4wd light and Id get power to the front wheels and potentially blow the front driveshaft out.

I do notice vibration from the transfer case when going highway speeds.

So this is the list of things I have done in relation to the matter:

-Replace front wheel speed sensors
-Replace transfer case speed sensor
-Replace push button 4wd switch
-Ohm out and checked voltage to actuator and transfer case motor
-Tried manually switching to 2wd
-Tried to use a vampire clip to a positive wire in the 4wd switch to give power to the switch
-Replaced the fuse for the 4wd system.


The only thing left that I could think of that I’ll get around to on my day off is checking the TCCM and pray and hope thats the culprit which I have access to a spare one from a parts truck.

But anywho, sorry for the long and drawnout post. Im just giving every detail of what is going on. Hopefully its in the right section. Hopefully with some guidance from you guys I can get this fixed and hopefully this post can help others in the future.
 

Fless

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Welcome to TYF! Post up some pics when you get a chance.

I'd recommend getting a bidirectional scanner on it (preferably a Tech 2, if you can get your hands on one) to check out the transfer case electronics and drivetrain status. If you have a DIC (Driver Info Center) does it show "Service 4wd System?" Gotta get those codes to know what's going on.

There is a critical ground underneath the driver's door, right behind the LF wheel near the frame rail. Two bolts there should be holding three ground wires; one of those can affect the 4x4 system. Clean and tighten those grounds. Wire connections for #2, 3 & 4 on the diagram:

Left_Side_Frame_Rail_resized.jpg

On the dash switch connector there should be a constant 5v from the TCCM; be sure to check it with the ground in the connector to be sure both circuits are good. I can look for the pinout if you need one. I see that you changed the switch, but do you know if the button resistance values are within spec? Need a digital ohm meter for that; let me know if you need the ohm values.

Replacing the TCCM with the spare may not work since the OE modules are programmed to the truck. If it's a Dorman replacement programming is not needed.

I would recommend NOT trying to switch the modes on the encoder motor since doing that can move the actuator to a non-neutral position and it can be difficult to get it back.
 
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TooTurntDad

TooTurntDad

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Welcome to TYF! Post up some pics when you get a chance.

I'd recommend getting a bidirectional scanner on it (preferably a Tech 2, if you can get your hands on one) to check out the transfer case electronics and drivetrain status. If you have a DIC (Driver Info Center) does it show "Service 4wd System?" Gotta get those codes to know what's going on.

There is a critical ground underneath the driver's door, right behind the LF wheel near the frame rail. Two bolts there should be holding three ground wires; one of those can affect the 4x4 system. Clean and tighten those grounds. Wire connections for #2, 3 & 4 on the diagram:

View attachment 262394

On the dash switch connector there should be a constant 5v from the TCCM; be sure to check it with the ground in the connector to be sure both circuits are good. I can look for the pinout if you need one. I see that you changed the switch, but do you know if the button resistance values are within spec? Need a digital ohm meter for that; let me know if you need the ohm values.

Replacing the TCCM with the spare may not work since the OE modules are programmed to the truck. If it's a Dorman replacement programming is not needed.

I would recommend NOT trying to switch the modes on the encoder motor since doing that can move the actuator to a non-neutral position and it can be difficult to get it back.


Great info! I’ll get pictures up as soon as I can. As for the grounds underneath the drivers door, I forgot to mention that I did clean them up and get back to bare metal again for better contact. Still no luck.

I dont remember the ohm values in the switch off the top of my head but based on a YouTube video that I used to go through some of the steps I took; the read out was suppose to be .9 something and I had similar results. Would love to have that info again passed along.

My DIC does show “Sevice 4wd System” I dont have access to a scanner but Im sure a tech at a dealership can help.

I also found out my 2a fuse for my steering wheel controls is out and half my radio harness is missing because the PO didnt use the interface to install the aftermarket radio, which lead me to believe I needed a whole new body harness (which I painstakenly got after pulling it myself)

This is a first time experience for me on these trucks. Ive had an 06 XL with no issues and an 02 Tahoe with no issues either. Kinda kicking myself in the ass for even letting both of them go now that Im dealing with this.

But, nonetheless once its fixed I’ll be absolutely thrilled.

Also, if you dont mind, if you have any good links to wiring diagrams etc please share them. The more I know the merrier.
 

Fless

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Switch testing... here’s a link with info on how to test the dash switch. Post #10.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/03-4x4-issues.112093/

This guy shows how to check them all, but his presentation isn't all that great. LOL He states one of the values wrong but I don't recall which one; see the Atraonline article link below.
https://youtu.be/JNWxhIWs8Uk starting at about 2:10

This thread might also help: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/4x4-selector-going-to-n-selection-not-working.120624/

And this guy has some diagnostic info with the actual switch position ohm values. (My '04 wiring wasn't exactly the same for the ATCM, but the switch ohm values are correct. Apply those to the You Tube video. My ATCM voltage to the switch is 5v; yours will be, too, I think.)
Atraonline article: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.net/gears/2006/2006-08/2006_08_08.pdf

Also, here's Pete Huscher's article describing how the Tcase works:
https://atracom.blob.core.windows.net/gears/2006/2006-07/2006_07_10.pdf

EDIT: maybe let us know what part of the country you're in; sometimes there's a helpful forum member nearby with a Tech 2 or other suggestions.
 
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TooTurntDad

TooTurntDad

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Switch testing... here’s a link with info on how to test the dash switch. Post #10.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/03-4x4-issues.112093/

This guy shows how to check them all, but his presentation isn't all that great. LOL He states one of the values wrong but I don't recall which one; see the Atraonline article link below.
https://youtu.be/JNWxhIWs8Uk starting at about 2:10

This thread might also help: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/4x4-selector-going-to-n-selection-not-working.120624/

And this guy has some diagnostic info with the actual switch position ohm values. (My '04 wiring wasn't exactly the same for the ATCM, but the switch ohm values are correct. Apply those to the You Tube video)
Atraonline article: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.net/gears/2006/2006-08/2006_08_08.pdf

Also, here's Pete Huscher's article describing how the Tcase works:
https://atracom.blob.core.windows.net/gears/2006/2006-07/2006_07_10.pdf

EDIT: maybe let us know what part of the country you're in; sometimes there's a helpful forum member nearby with a Tech 2 or other suggestions.

Sweet! I’ll get to reading.

And to answer your question about my location. Im in Knoxville, TN.
 

Fless

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Ok, good. The diag article says that the connectors and wiring diagram shown are from a 2001 Silverado. I'd be curious if your ATCM voltage to the dash switch is 8v or 5v.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics, please.


I see that @Fless had already responded, and is giving you sage advice. Other members of this Forum will chime in to further assist you, if needed.
 

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