2004 Tahoe has a parasitic draw or so im told...someone help please

[CrazySunsetChaser]

im in desperate need of some help. I've wracked the brains of everyone I know who has knowledge about mechanics searched online and read endless posts and possible cooperates for this issue. I pray someone here may be able to help me solve this because it's becoming a nightmare to say the least.

I have a 2004 taboe it's issue started about 8 months ago yes I've delt with this for that long...it began with replacing my entire fuel system due to bad gas...lead to started replacement battery replacement not long after. My truck has been doing so many strange things sometimes the gages dont work and when they dont my windows and ac dont either. My battery dies every night without fail I need a jump to start it and often times I can drive it for hours then shut it off and 5 mins later it won't start. I replaced the battery 4 times in 8 months and checked the alternator function as well clear check on that
replacement of ground wires done checked all wiring connections from starter battery exc. Replaced starter relay and checked every fuze in the truck with it on and with it off nothin out of the ordinary there ..I removed all unnecessary fuses such as radio lights inside glovebox mirror lights exc. Didn't make a difference. Ran a test on computer and it doesn't read anything. Now my gages will jump with the truck off and key out of the ignition and it sounds like it's still running and feels like it too. Makes weird noises as if something is being switched on in the rear but the trucks been off for hours. I've replaced all fuses and relays to be safe and battery on the key fob...anyone have any idea what this might be please help.

 

[Fless]

I'm assuming that the battery capacity test was done at a shop that has a load tester. Any aftermarket devices? Remote start, alarm, and is nothing plugged in to the power outlets? To me this sounds more like a bad main ground connection or cable, or positive cable/connection. I would suggest doing a voltage drop test from the battery to the body and the engine, on both positive and negative circuits.

There are quite a few threads on here showing how to measure the resting current draw using the test points on the fuses. Search for "parasitic draw."Generally speaking it should be 50mA or less, but these trucks tend to be in the low 20mA range when they're solid.

To read the parasitic draw, remove the negative battery cable and insert an ammeter (DVOM) configured to the highest -- 10a or 5a, usually -- passthrough, and read how many amps or milliamps are registered. Let the truck go to sleep, then check it again. Don't try to start it or use the starter, headlights, etc. while the ammeter is in circuit, unless you have spare fuses for the DVOM. If the draw is low enough in the higher amperage setting, you can switch to the lower amp configuration for more accuracy. Check your DVOM specs.

If you have the AUTO HVAC head (the one where you can set the temp in degrees), it can take as many as 4 hours to go to sleep, and might draw 60-80 milliamps (0.060-0.080mA) by itself, on top of what the rest of the circuits draw.

A bad diode in an alternator can also cause a significant draw. A defective ignition switch could also be wreaking havoc.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

Yes, it sounds like you've done your due diligence so far, with what you've done in troubleshooting your issue.

Check out what @Fless recommended, and come back to us with your findings. We'll get to the end of this issue together.

 

[Chuck A]

A very old/newbie here... Just surfing the forum.
Alt was mentioned.
To the OP: With a dead cold engine, feel the alt. Is it warm?
A clamp on Amp meter may help. Not real expensive.
When you changed the fuses, did you check amp draw as each was added back?
Fless' suggestion a good start:
"There are quite a few threads on here showing how to measure the resting current draw using the test points on the fuses. Search for "parasitic draw."
Been a couple months....Any progress?

 

[Fless]

A very old/newbie here... Just surfing the forum.
Alt was mentioned.
To the OP: With a dead cold engine, feel the alt. Is it warm?
A clamp on Amp meter may help. Not real expensive.
When you changed the fuses, did you check amp draw as each was added back?
Fless' suggestion a good start:
"There are quite a few threads on here showing how to measure the resting current draw using the test points on the fuses. Search for "parasitic draw."
Been a couple months....Any progress?

The OP is a one and done. Hasn't been on here since the original post.

 

[Chuck A]

The OP is a one and done. Hasn't been on here since the original post.

I see that now.
The mouse on the screen name is like other forums I'm on.
The last time on is there.
Will check the next time!