2008 Tahoe no crank/starts and dies (solved)

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PG01

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Check the starter. There is a ground off the solenoid to the starter body that can corrode. My ‘13 pretty much did same thing. Ran fine, parked it a few hours later nothing… had lights, good voltage at battery, everything checked out normal. A few raps on the starter got it crank but then would quit mid crank.
 

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wjburken

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Might try and get a look at the FPCM.

 
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Woody258

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Thank you, I’ll check both of those. That video was very useful, didn’t know about looking for spread pins in the connection. I’ll update after checking.
 
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Woody258

Woody258

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Starter is good, jumped relay and turns over fine. Unplugged ignition security module and it will start everytime and die. After plugging it back in, it’s starting and running normally. Wonder if module needs replaced. Looking inside I don’t see anything obvious but wondered about these joints?
 

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Fless

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Hard to tell anything from here, the pics are a bit fuzzy. If any of the solder joints are cracked, just reflow them and use some leaded solder.
 

Geotrash

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Starter is good, jumped relay and turns over fine. Unplugged ignition security module and it will start everytime and die. After plugging it back in, it’s starting and running normally. Wonder if module needs replaced. Looking inside I don’t see anything obvious but wondered about these joints?
I would be more likely to suspect the capacitor (s) if the solder joints are okay. The caps are the components most likely to suffer from age, me thinks.
 

j91z28d1

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gm has been known for parts failing over solder joints. all the older abs systems in the obs, most can be fixed by reflowing the solder on the big pins, same with the c5 abs system. almost every one that fails seems to be fixed by a reflow. the 2nd Gen volts there's a major issue with a battery module of some sort. every thread leads to just pull it apart and reflow some pins and it usually works again.

I don't know what kinda qc gm has in place.. but same issue has spanned almost 30 years at this point. I'd say it's definitely worth a try, even if they look good. maybe make a youtube and add it to all the other repair videos haha.
 

Doubeleive

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Starter is good, jumped relay and turns over fine. Unplugged ignition security module and it will start everytime and die. After plugging it back in, it’s starting and running normally. Wonder if module needs replaced. Looking inside I don’t see anything obvious but wondered about these joints?
my 2012 has a "glitch" that I suspect is also the security module ring, sometimes if I disconnect the battery and then when it is re-attached it will not start until I disconnect it again and dissipate any remaining power by flipping some switches and pressing the brake pedal, then re-attach battery and it will start.
testing with the tech2 to troubleshoot this issue it says "security ***" something I don't remember what it says but basically it indicates a security failure. So I tried replacing that security ring which requires a connection to technet with the tech2 over the internet and I tried several times and it would say programming was completed and then it still wouldn't start even after doing a key relearn over and over. I was like wtf? put the old security ring back in and it started right up.... so I said f-uck it and left the old one in.
but it sounds like the ring could be your issue....I would have the dealer replace it and let them deal with it. for me it was a big fail.
 
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Woody258

Woody258

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Well I reflow the pins I circled in the pic. It starts and runs now. I tried a new gm security module but couldn't get the 30 min relearn to work. I reinstalled the old module and see if it flakes out or not. Looks like my no crank / crank-start-die has been solved. Thanks for all the help and suggestions! :patriot:
 
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