2010 Tahoe AC HELP!!

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lowcomet

lowcomet

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Any new news?

So got a new compressor installed, another new drier, orifice tube and expansion valve. Now I have a freaking leak on the rear suction tube right at the rear expansion valve. No leaks before. I cracked the line half way around right before the flange where the o ring goes. I tried brazing it, could only slow it down. Then used some aluma bond. Well it held a good vaccumm, so I charged it and its still leaking. Verified through UV dye. I'm currently awaiting a rear block off kit. I've invested a small fortune in this AC system and just cant afford to replace the rear lines right now.

As far as the low pressure on the high side I believe I've deduced a bad high side pressure port. I'm currently waiting on a new high side pressure port. I checked it later with old compressor still installed and saw 125 on the high side before I evacuated it. Installed new compressor and saw same high side pressure 30-35. I connected my gauges to a different vehicle and everything read fine. I even pulled a vaccumm on the gauges themselves, closed off to the rest of the system and let it sit an hour and determined the gauges weren't just leaking by. Bad high side pressure port is the only determination I can make for such erratic pressure changes on high side only when connecting gauges at different points in time.

I tried sourcing some salvage yard rear lines but geez they wanted $100 for them. By the time i spend another $50 to splice things together, still no gaurentee it wont leak. Hell Rockauto has ACdelco lines for AC and heater core new for $140. But those still need spliced. Aftermarket high pressure rubber lines run upwards of $400!

Ready to burn this mother down!! But damned determined to have decent working front air so the family doesn't have a heat stroke! I do all my own work and try to be as profecient as possible but I feel like such a failure. Hate AC work!!
 
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lowcomet

lowcomet

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Holy smokes that is low.
There must be a restriction before the port, if the valve in the port is opening. Is the port hot or cold?

The line leading up to the orifice tube is hot. I just think the valve in the port isn't operating properly.
 
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lowcomet

lowcomet

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Well, changed the high pressure port, which was why I was getting such a low reading on that side. Installed a rear block off kit, vaccumm, charged and voila. Everything works as it should and within operating range. Coldest air I've had since owning it. I'll just have to replace those rear lines before next summer. I'm not messing woth it anymore until then.
 

gpracer1

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Well, changed the high pressure port, which was why I was getting such a low reading on that side. Installed a rear block off kit, vaccumm, charged and voila. Everything works as it should and within operating range. Coldest air I've had since owning it. I'll just have to replace those rear lines before next summer. I'm not messing woth it anymore until then.


Happy cool summer !!!
 

Warriorpluto

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Well, changed the high pressure port, which was why I was getting such a low reading on that side. Installed a rear block off kit, vaccumm, charged and voila. Everything works as it should and within operating range. Coldest air I've had since owning it. I'll just have to replace those rear lines before next summer. I'm not messing woth it anymore until then.
Does the pressure port unscrew?
 

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