2010 yukon denali 6.2l Timing question

[Detwiler666]

Can anyone tell me if i can access the timing compartment on a 2010 yukon denali 6.2l without pulling the motor out? Im looking to replace the vvt timing sprocket. Thanks in advance

 

[Big Mama]

Not sure invite @swathdiver @Galante @iamdub @HiHoeSilver they May have a better idea.

 

[Doubeleive]

pretty sure it's the same as it always has been remove all the front parts water pump, alternator, pulley's, tensioner, then you will have access to the timing chain, tensioner, etc..

 

[Detwiler666]

pretty sure it's the same as it always has been remove all the front parts water pump, alternator, pulley's, tensioner, then you will have access to the timing chain, tensioner, etc..

Oh ok cool thanks guys

 

[Doubeleive]

Oh ok cool thanks guys

might have to drop the oil pan also (not sure)

 

[iamdub]

Can anyone tell me if i can access the timing compartment on a 2010 yukon denali 6.2l without pulling the motor out? Im looking to replace the vvt timing sprocket. Thanks in advance

Sure can! Don't forget a gear/pulley puller for the crank pulley and a new crank bolt. It's TTY (Torque To Yield), so it can only be used once. Oh, and RTV for the joints where the bottom of the front cover, block and oil pan meet. The pan really should be dropped (doesn't have to be totally removed) so it doesn't hold the front cover up too much, putting the crank seal off-center and causing premature leaks. But you'll have to make DAMNED sure the pan is flush with the back of the motor so it's not pulled or pushed when you tighten the bellhousing bolts. I use a small drill bit to make some locating divots before I even take the front cover off so I don't have to mess with the oil pan. You could also get an alignment tool that locates the front cover off the crank. I think it's something like $80. You want the one that locates the cover without the seal in place- metal-on-metal.

 

[Detwiler666]

Sure can! Don't forget a gear/pulley puller for the crank pulley and a new crank bolt. It's TTY (Torque To Yield), so it can only be used once. Oh, and RTV for the joints where the bottom of the front cover, block and oil pan meet. The pan really should be dropped (doesn't have to be totally removed) so it doesn't hold the front cover up too much, putting the crank seal off-center and causing premature leaks. But you'll have to make DAMNED sure the pan is flush with the back of the motor so it's not pulled or pushed when you tighten the bellhousing bolts. I use a small drill bit to make some locating divots before I even take the front cover off so I don't have to mess with the oil pan. You could also get an alignment tool that locates the front cover off the crank. I think it's something like $80. You want the one that locates the cover without the seal in place- metal-on-metal.

Awesome! Thanks for the great info! How about the vvt oil control valve? Is it torque to yield also? I saw that on a youtube video that it was. .After i reinstalled the old one of course. Have a new one coming friday i was going to install it this weekend as soon as o figure out the torque specs on it

 

[swathdiver]

Awesome! Thanks for the great info! How about the vvt oil control valve? Is it torque to yield also? I saw that on a youtube video that it was. .After i reinstalled the old one of course. Have a new one coming friday i was going to install it this weekend as soon as o figure out the torque specs on it

Brandon, get yourself a subscription to AllDataDIY for your truck. If will have diagrams, torque specs, tools and tell you how to do it, just like the mechanics at the dealership are trained to do.

 

[Detwiler666]

Brandon, get yourself a subscription to AllDataDIY for your truck. If will have diagrams, torque specs, tools and tell you how to do it, just like the mechanics at the dealership are trained to do.

Ok will do thanks!

 

[Big Mama]

And to think I left you out Wes @Doubeleive my bad