2011 Suburban LT 1500

[rmaker]

Hey there, just bought a 2011 Suburban 153k miles (have an 02 GMC Yukon).

The right rear caliper is seized - no biggie - new hoses/rotors/calipers/pads are going on.

Question(s) -

Any recommendations on preferred brands for the items mentioned above?

Torque specs for Caliper bracket/Caliper Bolts/Banjo - I have searched and have at least four sets of numbers.

Any tips/tricks I should know about? - seems pretty straightforward.

Thanks, and looking forward to learning about this beast.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

I cannot personally help you with your question; however, other members on this Forum that are much more knowledgeable than me in this area will chime in.

What I have seen on this Forum are positive posts about OEM and PowerStop brake components.

 

[swathdiver]

Hey there, just bought a 2011 Suburban 153k miles (have an 02 GMC Yukon).

The right rear caliper is seized - no biggie - new hoses/rotors/calipers/pads are going on.

Question(s) -

Any recommendations on preferred brands for the items mentioned above?

Torque specs for Caliper bracket/Caliper Bolts/Banjo - I have searched and have at least four sets of numbers.

Any tips/tricks I should know about? - seems pretty straightforward.

Thanks, and looking forward to learning about this beast.

Banjo gets torqued to 30 foot pounds. The other end to 18 foot pounds.

Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts - Rear - 122 foot pounds.
Caliper Guide Pin Bolts - Rear - 28 foot pounds.

GM OE is what I always use.

Rear Rotors - 22968231/177-1149
Rear Pads - 19329677/171-0999

You can rebuild the rear aluminum calipers with the parts for the front very easily. GM sells new rear calipers that do not require a core charge.

After doing this work, you need a Tech-2 or equivalent to do an ABS Bleed and then bleed the brake the regular way to get your pedal firm. Use this opportunity to replace all of the fluid too. Took me 7 quarts to get it all clean and bled properly.

 

[rmaker]

Thanks for the info.

I found this info online, seems legit but differs from the numbers above.

2011 Chevy Suburban 5.3L Brake Torque Specs| Chevy Specs

suburban brake system bolt torque specs, common problems and repairs. Install new brake pads, brake caliper torque specs, master cylinder installation.

chevy-specs.com

 

[rmaker]

Update - I replaced all rear brake components - the Raybestos Calipers I ordered from Rock Auto had rusty guide pins with debris on them and one came with a banjo bolt and the other was missing the bolt.. so I just ran out and grabbed some Oreilly calipers and sent the rays back.

Going through my receipts and logging stuff today - I just noticed that the NAPA Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolts I picked up were part
#NOE 7300431 - NAPA OE Solutions Front Caliper Bolt.

These are front caliper bolts, I used them on the rear, not realizing. I did notice that they seemed to be a thread or two longer than the ones I took out, but they torqued down.
Now I am wondering if I need to go back in and use the proper "rear" bolts or if they are essentially the same?


What I used: Part #: NOE 7300431
What I should have used: Part #: NOE 81950211

 

[swathdiver]

^^ From the shop manual. I would think that the engineers had a good reason to use different bolts.

 

[rmaker]

Thanks for the updated specs.

Turns out the front bolts are 3mm longer than the rear bolts. Spoke with Dorman (manufacturer) and they said it "should be fine" as long as they seated/torqued etc... but it will haunt me forever knowing the wrong bolts are back there. So, I just picked up the correct bolts and will be replacing them tonight.

Story Time -

This "brake job" is gonna on four/five weeks - partly due to being out of town two of those weekends and a rainy weekend. What I thought would be an easy Sunday job (bought the car on a Saturday with a seized RR caliper) turned into a bit of a pita.
Woke up that Sunday, went to take the tires off and there were wheel locks on the rims. Of course, no key, so after spending several hours and $$ trying to remove them, I ended up taking it to a tire shop on Monday to remove the locks ($175 f'n bucks).

Ordered all the parts (Rock Auto Raybestos kit), parts arrived, I looked at one of the two calipers, which had a banjo bolt and washers etc..cool - assumed they were good to go. FF 3 weeks when I finally was able to get to work on it, and the other caliper is missing the banjo bolt. Couldn't find an off-the-shelf to fit so proceeded with the one that had it. Pulled it apart to lube the pins and one of the pins was rusty as hell, nearly dry with lots of rusty debris - at this point, I was fed up with these parts and said f it. Ran out to Oreilly and got some calipers - returned the rays. Oh and in the process of removing the bracket bolts, I sliced the top of my forearm on the f'n brake heat shield - a quick trip to the walk-in clinic. Amateur hour, I know.

I thought it would be better to replace the original bracket bolts instead of reusing the old ones - NAPA gave me the fronts instead of the rears. I noticed they were longer when I was putting them in, but chalked it up to aftermarket, as they seated and cleared. Only noticed today after looking over invoices. Finally finished the job this past weekend.

Took it for a test drive and it was rough idling, some chugging at low rpm, and I'm like mf'r. I have been reading endless stories of the AFM, so now I'm thinking this old guy got me, cleared the codes before selling it to me, and now I have a dud in need of major repairs (should have scanned before buying). Took it to my mechanic, P0308 among other codes. Luckily, as it turns out...the heater hose adapter had been leaking onto the #8 power pack. They replaced the power pack and spark plug and all is fine now. Or so it seems, haven't really put any miles on this yet, so fingers are crossed.

Looking at getting the RANGE AFM disabler - thoughts?


venting complete. ahhhhh.

 

[intheburbs]

At 153k, whatever damage/problem may have been caused by AFM is already done. Frequent oil changes are the best defense, <5k intervals.

I keep praying nothing happens to my two trucks. I'll buy a Ram before I buy an AFM truck.

 

[rmaker]

UPDATE - So I took it to the old school mechanic to give a proper once over. He determined that the left wheel bearing and the right inner tie rod are in fact bad. He also says that the drive shaft is bent and should be replaced.

He quoted me on just the one-wheel bearing, tie rod, and drive shaft. I told him to go ahead and replace it all, both inner/outer tie rods and both hub assemblies. He won't let me provide the parts which kinda sucks but at this point, I don't really care. Just want to get it on the road safely.

He did say I could provide the drive shaft which he quoted me at $675, so if anyone has any info on a new drive shaft i.e.. part #, good replacements etc let me know.
I called a local Chevy dealer to get the part # and they told me 1st they don't give out part #'s, and I was like WTF. Then he said, oh it's discontinued so I can give it to you. I asked how am I supposed to determine the correct part, and he was like good luck.. WTH?

 

[Doubeleive]

UPDATE - So I took it to the old school mechanic to give a proper once over. He determined that the left wheel bearing and the right inner tie rod are in fact bad. He also says that the drive shaft is bent and should be replaced.

He quoted me on just the one-wheel bearing, tie rod, and drive shaft. I told him to go ahead and replace it all, both inner/outer tie rods and both hub assemblies. He won't let me provide the parts which kinda sucks but at this point, I don't really care. Just want to get it on the road safely.

He did say I could provide the drive shaft which he quoted me at $675, so if anyone has any info on a new drive shaft i.e.. part #, good replacements etc let me know.
I called a local Chevy dealer to get the part # and they told me 1st they don't give out part #'s, and I was like WTF. Then he said, oh it's discontinued so I can give it to you. I asked how am I supposed to determine the correct part, and he was like good luck.. WTH?

call another dealer parts department, it can be any gm dealer anywhere any state it doesn't even have to be chevy they all use the same computer database.
as for the drive line call a drive line shop and have them check it, they can confirm if it is in fact bent or not and even possibly repair it or even make you a new one if need be. but there is always a junk yard option also it just has to be the same wheel base and 2wd/4wd etc.
not sure how your mechanic even determined it is bent anyway it takes special equipment, unless it has been visibly damaged somehow I doubt it is fact bent. if it is out of balance it can be rebalanced by a drive line shop.
and 99% of the time the issue with drive lines is u-joints or if the vehicle is lifted/lowered and the angle is off.