2011 Suburban LTZ W/autoride question

[juicedgsr95]

Just picked up this suburban and the rear pump is not working. Pulled the fuse and there are no lights on the dash.

I raised the front 1.5” and then it looked a little nose high so I added a .75” spacer in the rear.

The rear has the air shocks obviously not inflated (I guess since the pump doesn’t work).

I don’t get any errors, I don’t see any resistors.

The ride is decent and doesn’t feel sloppy but I am thinking of adding the bilstien 5100’s in the back.

My question is how can I tell is the springs were replaced already? Seems to be the correct height when in stock configuration.

 

[wjburken]

Just picked up this suburban and the rear pump is not working. Pulled the fuse and there are no lights on the dash.

I raised the front 1.5” and then it looked a little nose high so I added a .75” spacer in the rear.

The rear has the air shocks obviously not inflated (I guess since the pump doesn’t work).

I don’t get any errors, I don’t see any resistors.

The ride is decent and doesn’t feel sloppy but I am thinking of adding the bilstien 5100’s in the back.

My question is how can I tell is the springs were replaced already? Seems to be the correct height when in stock configuration.

Typically will not get an error if the compressor or airbags on the shocks fail.

There are actually two systems at play here - AutoRide and AutoLevel.

AutoRide adjusts the dampening of the shocks to match the road/driving conditions.

AutoLevel inflates the airbags on rear shocks to level to vehicle.

Resistors are needed if you go with non-AutoRide shocks.

Personally, I would stick with at least the AutoLevel, if not both. If you do, you will need to adjust your level sensors to compensate for the spacers in the front and can do away with the spacers in the rear.

If you do away with the AutoLevel, you will need stiffer springs as the ones used with AutoLevel are a little softer if I’m not mistaken.

It’s about $600 to get a new compressor (Arnott or Dorman) and some Arnott shocks (AS-2700 for new shocks that have built in resistor to spoof the AutoRide or AS-2708 which are re-man OEM that maintain the AutoRide). Takes about 1 hour to swap everything out.

 

[swathdiver]

Just picked up this suburban and the rear pump is not working. Pulled the fuse and there are no lights on the dash.

I raised the front 1.5” and then it looked a little nose high so I added a .75” spacer in the rear.

The rear has the air shocks obviously not inflated (I guess since the pump doesn’t work).

I don’t get any errors, I don’t see any resistors.

The ride is decent and doesn’t feel sloppy but I am thinking of adding the bilstien 5100’s in the back.

My question is how can I tell is the springs were replaced already? Seems to be the correct height when in stock configuration.

Do it right and keep the stock Z55 suspension. When working, it delivers a nice ride and keeps the truck level. That rear suspension seems to have about a ten year or so lifespan.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As @swathdiver stated, replace the Z55 suspension with new OEM parts. I've had it both ways, and the Z55 suspension is the better option.