2013 Chevy Tahoe LTZ

[13_Metallic]

How’s it going . Been on here a few times trying to get some help with my tahoe and still really don’t know what to do. So i have a 2013 LTZ Tahoe with Z55 the tahoe has a 3inch lift from what i was told from previous owner. Under front struts and then a spacer under the rear coil spring. And man it rides like absolute crap you can feel every bump and dip in the road. Its on 22x12’s and 33’s but my sierra had the same set up and did not ride this bad. Any help would be appreciated. Really hoping to not have to get rid of the Autoride or have to get a bigger or smaller lift. But I definitely would like to figure out why its riding so badly compared to my truck. Thanks Guys!

 

[iamdub]

How many miles are on the shocks and struts? They could be worn and/or locked up. As a quick test, you can unplug the wires from the struts and shocks and drive SLOWLY ON A STRAIGHT ROAD that you're very familiar with to see if the ride is softer. Don't do any swerving because it could be dangerously soft and top heavy. It will be very apparent after a short distance if there's any difference. I suspect that the suspension controller on these things gradually firms up the shocks over time and/or mileage and/or suspension cycles. I don't know if or how it can be reset, but I've read bits and pieces of talk about it.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

If you have a quality bi-directional scanner, you can monitor all 4 struts/shocks, and see how they are performing. But, what @iamdub recommended above would be a great starting point in your diagnostic work.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Don't you need to to rig the ride height sensor so that it isn't maxed out all the time because of the lift?

 

[13_Metallic]

How many miles are on the shocks and struts? They could be worn and/or locked up. As a quick test, you can unplug the wires from the struts and shocks and drive SLOWLY ON A STRAIGHT ROAD that you're very familiar with to see if the ride is softer. Don't do any swerving because it could be dangerously soft and top heavy. It will be very apparent after a short distance if there's any difference. I suspect that the suspension controller on these things gradually firms up the shocks over time and/or mileage and/or suspension cycles. I don't know if or how it can be reset, but I've read bits and pieces of talk about it.

It has 132,*** right now and honestly shocks and struts look OG so could very well be that. But wouldn’t it throw a code if they were locked up or shot?

 

[13_Metallic]

If you have a quality bi-directional scanner, you can monitor all 4 struts/shocks, and see how they are performing. But, what @iamdub recommended above would be a great starting point in your diagnostic work.

I don’t but given that my tahoe has 13X,*** on it now replacing all 4 corners may be a good call

 

[13_Metallic]

Don't you need to to rig the ride height sensor so that it isn't maxed out all the time because of the lift?

Yes i had bought some sensor extenders but it seems they still are tapped out which i suspect is why its riding so badly

 

[13_Metallic]

If you have a quality bi-directional scanner, you can monitor all 4 struts/shocks, and see how they are performing. But, what @iamdub recommended above would be a great starting point in your diagnostic work.

Honestly thinking of just pulling the leveling/Lift and ordering a new kit so i know exactly whats going on it. Vs now i have no idea what all is done and if it was halfway done which seems like it is

 

[iamdub]

It has 132,*** right now and honestly shocks and struts look OG so could very well be that. But wouldn’t it throw a code if they were locked up or shot?

Not if it was the computer locking them up because, as far as it can tell, nothing is out of parameter and it is just doing as programmed. Normal "dumb" shocks get softer and less effective as they age. These get firmer and too effective. I think the computer is programmed to automatically increase the firmness on a scale to counter this, but it's too aggressive. Again, this is just a theory. My guess as to why they (reportedly) ride better when replaced is that the computer sees a different resistance value from the shocks and/or struts.

The first thing to do would be to have the ride height sensors as close to the position they were in before the lift. Maybe even zeroed out (requires a Tech2 or capable bi-directional scan tool). Do you have shock extenders on the rear?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@13_Metallic Take a lot of pictures of your suspension and post them here