2013 Chevy Tahoe LTZ

[Charlie207]

I assume those thin sidewalls are helping it ride poorly.

 

[iamdub]

I assume those thin sidewalls are helping it ride poorly.

My thoughts as well. But he said he had the same setup on a truck which should ride firmer than a Tahoe LTZ in all instances so I excluded them as factors. We can only go with what we're given, ya know?

 

[13_Metallic]

@13_Metallic Take a lot of pictures of your suspension and post them here

 

[13_Metallic]

Not if it was the computer locking them up because, as far as it can tell, nothing is out of parameter and it is just doing as programmed. Normal "dumb" shocks get softer and less effective as they age. These get firmer and too effective. I think the computer is programmed to automatically increase the firmness on a scale to counter this, but it's too aggressive. Again, this is just a theory. My guess as to why they (reportedly) ride better when replaced is that the computer sees a different resistance value from the shocks and/or struts.

The first thing to do would be to have the ride height sensors as close to the position they were in before the lift. Maybe even zeroed out (requires a Tech2 or capable bi-directional scan tool). Do you have shock extenders on the rear?

I don’t haven’t been able to find any that are compatible with the Rear Air Shocks

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@13_Metallic I see multiple things wrong with your suspension.

1.) Ride level sensors are maxed out, that's bad. I can't tell which struts those are but lets assume they are the factory struts auto ride.

2.) Rear shocks are fully extended at ride height, also really bad.

3.) Rear sway bar end links are too short now your rear sway bar is at crappy angle.

At this point you need to decide if you want to keep auto ride. I'll give you a hint, you need to get rid of it.

I recommend you get a set of 4 bilstein 4600s or 5100s, rear shock extenders from Rough County, Moog 81069 rear springs, and some 3 inch lift JK sway bar end links. That should set you up nicely.

 

[13_Metallic]

@13_Metallic I see multiple things wrong with your suspension.

1.) Ride level sensors are maxed out, that's bad. I can't tell which struts those are but lets assume they are the factory struts auto ride.

2.) Rear shocks are fully extended at ride height, also really bad.

3.) Rear sway bar end links are too short now your rear sway bar is at crappy angle.

At this point you need to decide if you want to keep auto ride. I'll give you a hint, you need to get rid of it.

I recommend you get a set of 4 bilstein 4600s or 5100s, rear shock extenders from Rough County, Moog 81069 rear springs, and some 3 inch lift JK sway bar end links. That should set you up nicely.

As far as a light coming on how do i prevent that? Since i will be removing the autoride?

 

[swathdiver]

@Trey Hardy

 

[Trey Hardy]

How’s it going . Been on here a few times trying to get some help with my tahoe and still really don’t know what to do. So i have a 2013 LTZ Tahoe with Z55 the tahoe has a 3inch lift from what i was told from previous owner. Under front struts and then a spacer under the rear coil spring. And man it rides like absolute crap you can feel every bump and dip in the road. Its on 22x12’s and 33’s but my sierra had the same set up and did not ride this bad. Any help would be appreciated. Really hoping to not have to get rid of the Autoride or have to get a bigger or smaller lift. But I definitely would like to figure out why its riding so badly compared to my truck. Thanks Guys!

Sounds like the lift is stretched out so your uca may be bottoming out? Are the bump stops cut out already?
I had the same issue I put bilsteins on my Silverado and they ride good
I did icon coil overs on my Tahoe and used spacers to stretch the 6” lift to a 8” and between the coil overs and the uniball upper control arms the ride and handling changed dramatically it was night and day I went from hitting rail road tracks at 45 with both hands on the wheel to jumping them at 75-80 driving with my knee cap and sipping on my coffee
I’ve always hated the auto ride shocks they suck in my opinion trash that shit and get you some good shocks on that rig! And don’t spend money on a new lift kit it’s not the lift making it ride bad it’s the shocks and stretched suspension.
I have a rc lift on the Silverado and a fabtech on the Tahoe both are about the same minus the fabtech has slightly better lower control arm angles

 

[Trey Hardy]

As far as a light coming on how do i prevent that? Since i will be removing the autoride?

They also have dummy sensors that will plug into the Auto ride to trick the sensors.
I diddnt care about the lights as my dash is lit up like a Christmas tree what’s one more light going to hurt! Lol

 

[Trey Hardy]

@13_Metallic I see multiple things wrong with your suspension.

1.) Ride level sensors are maxed out, that's bad. I can't tell which struts those are but lets assume they are the factory struts auto ride.

2.) Rear shocks are fully extended at ride height, also really bad.

3.) Rear sway bar end links are too short now your rear sway bar is at crappy angle.

At this point you need to decide if you want to keep auto ride. I'll give you a hint, you need to get rid of it.

I recommend you get a set of 4 bilstein 4600s or 5100s, rear shock extenders from Rough County, Moog 81069 rear springs, and some 3 inch lift JK sway bar end links. That should set you up nicely.

I second this though^^^ if your on a budget some bilsteins and jeep rear sway bar links would make a considerable difference keep us posted as what you decide to do and how it worked out for you if it resolved your issue or not