2013 Tahoe DOD & VVT Delete

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B_Dominant

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I know there have been a bunch of posts regarding this, but some have varying answers. Hoping to tailor this post to my situation.

I was planning on doing the timing chain on my 2013 Tahoe 110k miles and was told it might be a good time to delete the DOD. I have no issues currently. I have a few questions I would like clarity on.

1.) Here is the kit I'm looking at. Is this a solid kit? Is there anything else I need? I just want reliable stock performance.


2.) Should I delete VVT? Any downsides on these engines? CEL?

3.) Should I replace rockers and valve springs?

4.) Should I machine the heads even if they are flat?

5.) How/ who can remotely tune my vehicle once this is done? Are there any reputable tuners on here? I have no tuners in my area.
 
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Charlie207

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You can turn off the AFM by shifting into Manual Mode Gear 5. That's the easiest/cheapest.

There is at least one vendor who will take your mailed-in ECU, and disable the AFM system, for a nominal fee.

There are companies like BlackBear Performance who will offer a much more customized, but expensive, engine & transmission tuning experience through email via a handheld scanner that plugs into your OBD2 port to do data logging and file uploading.

I think deleting AFM is a smart idea if you'd like to prevent any issues, and it gives you a chance to look at some engine internals while your in there. Unless there's a diagnosed issue with the rockers and valve springs I'd just leave them. Same goes for the heads, unless you've overheaded the engine.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

You can contact Texas Speed or Summit Racing, and they will provide you with a kit with all the required parts to perform this work.
 

Geotrash

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I know there have been a bunch of posts regarding this, but some have varying answers. Hoping to tailor this post to my situation.

I was planning on doing the timing chain on my 2013 Tahoe 110k miles and was told it might be a good time to delete the DOD. I have no issues currently. I have a few questions I would like clarity on.

1.) Here is the kit I'm looking at. Is this a solid kit? Is there anything else I need? I just want reliable stock performance.


2.) Should I delete VVT? Any downsides on these engines? CEL?

3.) Should I replace rockers and valve springs?

4.) Should I machine the heads even if they are flat?

5.) How/ who can remotely tune my vehicle once this is done? Are there any reputable tuners on here? I have no tuners in my area.
We see very few timing chain issues on these, and for the few that we see the problem usually starts with the tensioner coming apart and jamming the crank sprocket. But again, it's so rare that I wonder why anyone would worry about it. We have people well past 400K+ on their original chain and tensioner here. Much more trouble-prone are the AFM lifters and their control system (VLOM), so I'm a fan of the mechanical delete, but only if you're already experiencing a problem. Given that yours isn't broken, and is likely to go many more miles without a problem, I tend to favor Charlie's advice to go the electronic AFM disable route.

Yes, that kit is fine but it's also a nice time to consider a mild upgrade like a stage 1 or 2 truck cam. I have a Cam Motion Stage 2 Truck Cam (3-bolt, non-VVT) in my 2012 6.2 that I'm very happy with. But most folks try to keep the VVT if they can.

With your mileage, I would leave the rockers and valve springs alone unless you go big on the cam. Like the timing chain, they tend to last a long, long time. You may find some stories on the interwebz of people losing the roller bearings out of a rocker on early LS1's, but I've never even heard of that happening on an LS3, and I looked high and low. 6.2's seem to suffer the occasional broken spring, but it's quite rare on the 5.3's. And we've seen folks break aftermarket springs, so there's no guarantee that what you're putting in will outlast your originals.

The heads should be fine if they've never been overheated, though there are benefits to a valve job and you'll definitely want to install new valve stem seals, regardless. Fel-Pro makes a good set. I didn't bother with a valve job on my 2012. I just replaced the seals and in my case I did replace the valve springs because my new cam was too big for factory springs. I also did a trunnion bearing upgrade but I wouldn't bother with it if I had to do it over again. They're more of a gimmick than a necessity - again unless you're going for big power.

I used @BlackBearPerf for my tune and I'm thrilled with it. They had me record a data log before I did the engine work, and then they sent me a tune that would get me up and running with the new cam. Once running I captured a fresh log and they sent me a final tune. It's been great over since, and that was 4 years ago.
 

Marky Dissod

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If you're sticking with any GM OE cam, no need to turn off the VVT.
Feel free to turn off (or better yet, delete) Engine Half@$$.
 

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