2015 Tahoe LT 4WD Sluggish Acceleration

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the 18th letter

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I didn’t know that was a possibility. I will look into it. How does that affect fuel economy? I’m currently averaging 16 mpg. I drive 90% highway at 85 mph.
I get about 18 and I drive mostly highway a bit slower usually setting my cruise at 75. You can use a plug in disabler $, get it electronically tuned out $$ or replace the AFM parts $$$.
 

NickTransmissions

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I didn’t know that was a possibility. I will look into it. How does that affect fuel economy? I’m currently averaging 16 mpg. I drive 90% highway at 85 mph.
How is your acceleration when in higher gears at higher speeds?

Do you have a scan tool capable of reading live data?
 

BlackBearPerf

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I had a 1999 Tahoe 2WD and I don’t remember ever worrying about merging into traffic with it. I pressed the gas, and it would get up and go. It would put you back in the seat.

I have a 2015 Tahoe LT 4WD with the 5.3 now. It seems to have no acceleration at all. If I floor it, it will not put you in the seat at all.

It gets up to speed in due time, but it just doesn’t have the feel that inspires confidence when jumping on the highway.

There are times, especially the first startup of the day, when I can press the accelerator and it barely moves. It acts like a manual transmission in too high of a gear attempting to accelerate minus the shuddering. Like it’s waiting for the RPMs to increase. Almost got rear ended a few times when that happened.

Overall, the acceleration has left a lot to be desired.

Any suggestions on how to correct or improve this? I added a K&N air filter, otherwise I haven’t done anything else to it yet. I just bought it about 6 months ago.

Thanks in advance!
Since they are common complaints with these vehicles, throttle response and shifting improvements are some of the main benefits with the tune. Give us a call 877-809-4070, we would be happy to help.
 

mb1500

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My ‘99 didn’t have the active fuel management dropping from 8 cylinders to 4, so I don’t know if that is the difference it not.

It almost seems like it is stuck in 4 cylinder mode when I’m demanding all 8. Not sure how I can test that theory.

My 300c has a HEMI with active fuel management. When I step on it, it jumps to work. The stats on this Tahoe don’t seem to match with the performance.

If you’re accelerating up to speed you should have 8. Giving any serious input over cruising throttle should switch to 8. Any decent incline while cruising should switch to 8.

Go to the screen where you can see if it’s in V4 or 8 while driving and then get the gear to display also. Stomp on the gas and see what happens. See if you can monitor gear selection also.

Did you oil that K&N filter? Did you remove the throttle body during install?
 

NickTransmissions

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I had a 1999 Tahoe 2WD and I don’t remember ever worrying about merging into traffic with it. I pressed the gas, and it would get up and go. It would put you back in the seat.

I have a 2015 Tahoe LT 4WD with the 5.3 now. It seems to have no acceleration at all. If I floor it, it will not put you in the seat at all.

It gets up to speed in due time, but it just doesn’t have the feel that inspires confidence when jumping on the highway.

There are times, especially the first startup of the day, when I can press the accelerator and it barely moves. It acts like a manual transmission in too high of a gear attempting to accelerate minus the shuddering. Like it’s waiting for the RPMs to increase. Almost got rear ended a few times when that happened.

Overall, the acceleration has left a lot to be desired.

Any suggestions on how to correct or improve this? I added a K&N air filter, otherwise I haven’t done anything else to it yet. I just bought it about 6 months ago.

Thanks in advance!
This may or may not apply to your vehicle, who knows; but in general if the following condition is present the torque converter should be on your list of suspects:

Condition: No power at low-mid RPMs, poor acceleration through the first half of the available shift pattern (in a 6L, gears 1-3) but overall acceleration improves once you're in the top half of the shift pattern (gears 4-6) and responsiveness to throttle position changes is normal at highway speeds.

Suspected Cause: Torque converter has failed; specifically the stator one way clutch (OWC) has rolled over and is freewheeling in both directions. As a result, there is no torque multiplication at all and vehicle only feels 'normal' once fluid coupling has taken place at higher road speeds once stall RPM is exceeded. This will be exacerbated by the 6L's TCC apply strategy which locks the converter starting in 2nd gear.

Not sure if the OP will return to give updates or answer members' questions but I wanted to post in the event anyone else has his or similar drivability symptoms to give one possible cause to look into, in case this one goes unsolved.
 
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rb5064

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This may or may not apply to your vehicle, who knows; but in general if the following condition is present the torque converter should be on your list of suspects:

Condition: No power at low-mid RPMs, poor acceleration through the first half of the available shift pattern (in a 6L, gears 1-3) but overall acceleration improves once you're in the top half of the shift pattern (gears 4-6) and responsiveness to throttle position changes is normal at highway speeds.

Suspected Cause: Torque converter has failed; specifically the stator one way clutch (OWC) has rolled over and is freewheeling in both directions. As a result, there is no torque multiplication at all and vehicle only feels 'normal' once fluid coupling has taken place at higher road speeds once stall RPM is exceeded. This will be exacerbated by the 6L's TCC apply strategy which locks the converter starting in 2nd gear.

Not sure if the OP will return to give updates or answer members' questions but I wanted to post in the event anyone else has his or similar drivability symptoms to give one possible cause to look into, in case this one goes unsolved.
This sounds like what it is doing. It didn’t happen all the time, but it happens frequently enough that it caught my attention. It seems like starting from a stop or slow speed that it may be starting in 2nd vs starting in 1st. Meaning, there is a lack of acceleration, like it’s a manual transmission starting out in too high of a gear. Floor the accelerator and it barely crawls. After it warms up, it reaches highway speed, (I live in the country with all two lane blacktop highways), then the problem goes away.
 
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rb5064

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If you’re accelerating up to speed you should have 8. Giving any serious input over cruising throttle should switch to 8. Any decent incline while cruising should switch to 8.

Go to the screen where you can see if it’s in V4 or 8 while driving and then get the gear to display also. Stomp on the gas and see what happens. See if you can monitor gear selection also.

Did you oil that K&N filter? Did you remove the throttle body during install?
The filter was pre-oiled. I didn’t add any additional oil to it. I loosened the filter cover and carefully moved it out of the east without disassembling the breather hose, and installed turn filter.
 

NickTransmissions

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This sounds like what it is doing. It didn’t happen all the time, but it happens frequently enough that it caught my attention. It seems like starting from a stop or slow speed that it may be starting in 2nd vs starting in 1st. Meaning, there is a lack of acceleration, like it’s a manual transmission starting out in too high of a gear. Floor the accelerator and it barely crawls. After it warms up, it reaches highway speed, (I live in the country with all two lane blacktop highways), then the problem goes away.
Do your best to count the number of upshifts next time you take it out for a drive on the freeway. Wrong gear starts isn't converter. Its usually valve body and occasionally shift solenoids but sometimes can be something inside the case (not nearly as likely, however).

Better yet, if you have a scan tool that will display transmission live data you can immediately rule in or out a wrong gear start. Any Snap on and most Bosch or Autel scanners will work as will an MDI subscription from AC Delco diagnostics for your vehicle ...
 

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