2016 and it’s been awhile

[David4Jesus]

Hey folks,

So at one point my drive way was full of these GM beauties and then I went foreign.

I finally went back last year to a Suburban because I needed family room. Since owning it I have seen people talk about the wind noise and multiple other issues. I’m just shy of 70k on mine currently.

The wind noise/shudder is horrendous at 45+ the tires are new but Chevy here has already done one transmission reprogram and it did nothing. Now they claim it’s my tires but can’t say if they are bad or need an alignment.

They also say the weatherstripping is all bad (which is crazy because my 90s Honda Odyssey work car is sound proof.

The rear buckets and front passenger seat heat no longer comes on,

Both rear windows make a horrible sound when going up and down. All of this is not covered by a warranty or even my third party extended warranty and is totaling up to several thousand dollars.

Has anyone attempted anything through their consumer affairs etc ? None of this stuff should be bad or broken this quick. Thanks for any input.

 

[OR VietVet]

First: The only way an alignment can cause a shudder is if it has too much caster lead on one side or the other. A tire can cause a shudder though. A tire worn badly from alignment wear can also shudder. Rotate the tires and see if that changes anything. You did not say what year Suburban? Do you have any door sag from hinge or hinge pin bushing problems? What does the weather strip look like? Your 90's Honda makes absolutely no difference here with the problems you are having. Different vehicle and design. Cannot compare apples to plums.

Remove the rear window panels and look in there while going up and down. May be fixed with just some lube. If you bought used you don't know how it was taken care of, I think anyway, and whether any parts have been replaced in the rear window area, like cheaper than dirt or used regulators or motors or the quality of the repair work done.

Have you looked to see if seat heating elements are plugged in?

You are missing so many details needed to ask for help here and we all want to help.

 

[Jeramia]

David, do you get the shudder in the V4 mode? Does it disappear when it goes into V8 ?

 

[David4Jesus]

First: The only way an alignment can cause a shudder is if it has too much caster lead on one side or the other. A tire can cause a shudder though. A tire worn badly from alignment wear can also shudder. Rotate the tires and see if that changes anything. You did not say what year Suburban? Do you have any door sag from hinge or hinge pin bushing problems? What does the weather strip look like? Your 90's Honda makes absolutely no difference here with the problems you are having. Different vehicle and design. Cannot compare apples to plums.

Remove the rear window panels and look in there while going up and down. May be fixed with just some lube. If you bought used you don't know how it was taken care of, I think anyway, and whether any parts have been replaced in the rear window area, like cheaper than dirt or used regulators or motors or the quality of the repair work done.

Have you looked to see if seat heating elements are plugged in?

You are missing so many details needed to ask for help here and we all want to help.

2016 LTZ, 69k, the seats are plugged in but GM says they need new “blankets” front passenger seat & rear captains. Tires are almost new. Car is immaculate though I did buy it used last year with 45k on it. GM acknowledged the loud humming sound from both rear window motors and said it does sound like they are both going out but my extended warranty won’t cover it until they do. I’ve read so much about complaints with the wind and shudder noises on the 15 & 16 after I bought it and began experiencing it two months ago. I used the Honda as an example because who has weather stripping go out in 3 years ? I’ve got a 79 Camaro that just recently needed it replaced.

 

[OR VietVet]

The more shared info I get the better I feel. The seat blankets are well known weak spots. The nice tires are likely not the source of problems and if the caster was that far off, you would feel it with a pull of different magnitudes depending on the severity. I would still open up the rear window motor panels and look but that is your call. An adjustment at the latch and striker spots could help pull tighter to the seal but not too much adjustment because then you would have to slam the door to close. The weatherstripping may well be the culprit. There should be a TSB about that repair for that. If you signed up to ALLDATAdiy.com then for $29.95, for a year, you can look up TSB's and recalls and all sorts of info just for your rig.

 

[David4Jesus]

David, do you get the shudder in the V4 mode? Does it disappear when it goes into V8 ?

I did tell them that there it gets worse or noticeable at 40mph+ and when it switches modes. They said there were no codes on that as well and all programming was up to date

 

[cardude2000]

I did tell them that there it gets worse or noticeable at 40mph+ and when it switches modes. They said there were no codes on that as well and all programming was up to date

Put it in manual or tow mode and drive around at 40+. Manual mode or tow mode, I believe, deactivates ACM.

See if it still happens.

 

[Tahoe14]

Do you have pictures of the weatherstripping? I agree that they should not be bad at this point. When you say wind noise do you feel that wind is entering the vehicle from out side? If that is the case use blue tape and tape the doors one at a time to cover any openings and see if it makes a difference and maybe you could solve that issue. Shudder can be transmission related and some threads address that as well as tire or wheel issues. New tires can be bad also. I would take it to a reliable shop and have a true "road force balance" done. That checks both wheels and tires. Several owners have learned that the tires would not balance properly during road force balance. There is a percentage that they go by to determine if the tires are good or not. You said your warranty would not cover the door motors but you did not say if it covered the heating elements which can be a problem with the seats. Maybe check the fuse since that many are not working. Who is your extended warranty company? I am sure you paid good money for that warranty to not have good coverage. If it was me I would cancel my current warranty(info should be located on the back of the contract) or go to the selling dealer and have them complete the cancellation paperwork. After you receive a rebate then purchase a warranty that will take care of your issues and let that warranty take care of these issues. That is the reason for an extended warranty. Peace of mind, drop off the keys and then pick up the vehicle when the repairs are done at no cost or small deductible. As a last resort make the motors go out. You were told they were on the way out and you are just speeding up the process. Nothing illegal. Finally you could do the work or use an independent shop. Whatever you do do not pay full price for the parts. Ebay, Amazon, Rock auto are good sources for parts. Most repairs you can find a youtube showing how to do the repair. Even if you ley the Dealer do the repairs buy the parts first at one of the discount sources.Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[swathdiver]

GM says they need new “blankets” front passenger seat & rear captains.

Knees, tell your pax to keep their knees off your seats!

The most common vibrations from these came from the lack of sealant around the roof bows and from out of round rear axle shafts on those 12-bolt differentials. Then those 8-speeds and their converters also caused vibrations.

 

[David4Jesus]

I took it to a different Chevrolet shop after I left Gmc shop and they advised my weatherstripping was flat causing the wind noise and the vibrations were from the new tires cupping but said it could be the tires or the shocks or even an alignment but couldn’t give me an actual answer. I the warranty company was AUL and I purchased their “estate” package.