2019 suburban - Transmission overheating from AC?

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19sub

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Looking for advice on this overheating issue.

Picked up a "fleet vehicle" with 216k miles (2019 suburban) and it looks like it has the L83 w/ 6L80 transmission.
I was parked with AC on the car got up to 250F, I thought that was a bit hot and looked at the fluid(which was dark).
so change fluid ~12quart + filter (and installed a drain plug so I can do another fluid swap).
I also added the ppe thermal bypass valve as I read it helps with temp.

Now it looks like the bypass was working as it should as it took some time to heat up the fluid. I tried to load test the system by putting the car in D and sit idle with AC on blast. about ~20 minutes the transmission fluid got to 250 then raised quickly to 280. To which I shutdown the car.

It seems the transmission cooler is tied to the AC condenser? so at Idle w/ max AC it was heating up the trans fluid, turning off the AC and the trans temp would slowly go back down.
Whats the deal with this? is this normal?

What do you guys do for this? it wasnt crazy hot either it was only about 90F outside. (hottest here can get p to 110F and coldest ~40F)

Im thinking of adding a Tru Cool 40k but should that be installed
Trans > OEM trans cooler w/ AC > Tru Cool 40k > trans
or
Trans > Tru Cool 40k > trans

Should I keep the PPE thermal bypass or is the "Superior solution" the better option(im seeing that ideal temp should be ~170-200 so perhaps full bypass isnt the best solution for transmission longevity)?
It almost seems it better to just go with old design and route the fluid to radiator cooler first then the stock cooler stacked with AC condenser then back to transmission? at least radiator would keep temp at set at 210?

Usage wise, we maybe tow a car trailer once a year, main concern is really the wife sitting in a parking lot at idle with AC waiting for the kids to get out.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Stockton, Ca.
Looking for advice on this overheating issue.

Picked up a "fleet vehicle" with 216k miles (2019 suburban) and it looks like it has the L83 w/ 6L80 transmission.
I was parked with AC on the car got up to 250F, I thought that was a bit hot and looked at the fluid(which was dark).
so change fluid ~12quart + filter (and installed a drain plug so I can do another fluid swap).
I also added the ppe thermal bypass valve as I read it helps with temp.

Now it looks like the bypass was working as it should as it took some time to heat up the fluid. I tried to load test the system by putting the car in D and sit idle with AC on blast. about ~20 minutes the transmission fluid got to 250 then raised quickly to 280. To which I shutdown the car.

It seems the transmission cooler is tied to the AC condenser? so at Idle w/ max AC it was heating up the trans fluid, turning off the AC and the trans temp would slowly go back down.
Whats the deal with this? is this normal?

What do you guys do for this? it wasnt crazy hot either it was only about 90F outside. (hottest here can get p to 110F and coldest ~40F)

Im thinking of adding a Tru Cool 40k but should that be installed
Trans > OEM trans cooler w/ AC > Tru Cool 40k > trans
or
Trans > Tru Cool 40k > trans

Should I keep the PPE thermal bypass or is the "Superior solution" the better option(im seeing that ideal temp should be ~170-200 so perhaps full bypass isnt the best solution for transmission longevity)?
It almost seems it better to just go with old design and route the fluid to radiator cooler first then the stock cooler stacked with AC condenser then back to transmission? at least radiator would keep temp at set at 210?

Usage wise, we maybe tow a car trailer once a year, main concern is really the wife sitting in a parking lot at idle with AC waiting for the kids to get out.
I would suspect maybe there is something else going on, but yes a complete transmission thermostat bypass helps as well as a deep transmission pan and a tru-cool
I have all 3 on mine.
if you go the tru-cool route and plan on keeping the vehicle I would highly recomend going with 6an lines, the supplied rubber lines and worm clamps with the tru-cool do eventually leak.
I converted all of mine to 6an fittings and lines.
if you have questions on the fittings let me know I have all the information, plan on spending around $100 on lines and fittings in addition to the tru-cool
the thermostat bypass is super easy and cheap $10
 
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19sub

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I would suspect maybe there is something else going on, but yes a complete transmission thermostat bypass helps as well as a deep transmission pan and a tru-cool
I have all 3 on mine.
if you go the tru-cool route and plan on keeping the vehicle I would highly recomend going with 6an lines, the supplied rubber lines and worm clamps with the tru-cool do eventually leak.
I converted all of mine to 6an fittings and lines.
if you have questions on the fittings let me know I have all the information, plan on spending around $100 on lines and fittings in addition to the tru-cool
the thermostat bypass is super easy and cheap $10
What did you use for the OEM lines to AN fitting? I have some leftover 6an from my other build I can use. I dont think these lines are high pressure that it would require SS AN fitting? aluminum fitting would probably be sufficient given that I see a lot o people use barb fitting?
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
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Location
Stockton, Ca.
What did you use for the OEM lines to AN fitting? I have some leftover 6an from my other build I can use. I dont think these lines are high pressure that it would require SS AN fitting? aluminum fitting would probably be sufficient given that I see a lot o people use barb fitting?
this is not professional work, it's out of sight out of mind behind the grill.

I do not have a finished picture with the 6an lines attached, but my last photo is how it will fit behind the shutters, you will want to trim the plastic wing of a couple shutter levers in order to be sure there is clearance for the shutters to open/close otherwise if the shutter hangs up it will throw a code. I originally used the rubber hose and worm clamps provided with the trucool but they leaked and they leaked on my yukon also. both of them I changed over to 6an.


you will be connecting on the left side (passenger side)


you will need 2 6an lines I used a 24" for 1 line and a 54" for the other line


you will need to make 2 holes in the plastic on the left side in order to fit the 6an lines thru to the front to connect to the tru-cool


m14x1.5mm to 6an for the left side upper oem connection, you will have remove the oem connector on the cooler and then trim the m14 thread side shorter in order to fully seat. you only need one but they only sell 2 packs


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7ZQQF3S?ref=fed_asin_title


6an to 6an 90deg this connects to the left side connector noted above


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPARHE?ref=fed_asin_title


1 6an hose connects to that and then feeds thru to the trucool


1 oem quick connect, this connects to the factory transmission cooler line


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013FFLOG?ref=fed_asin_title


1 5/8-18 connects to the other side of the fitting above and provides the 6an fitting for the 2nd hose to tru cool


this 1st 6an line was 30" and was not long enough to reach the other side of the trucool a 54" worked well and allowed for easy bends/curves

6an2.JPG


6an3.JPG
6an4.JPG
6an5.JPG
6an6.JPG
6an7.JPG
6an8.JPG
6an9.JPG
6an10.JPG
 

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