2023 Suburban Duramax - Engine overheated

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navyseal334

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2023 Suburban Duramax - 23k miles.

Issue: engine overheated and told me to turn off the car to cool the engine. Under the hood, something had sprayed everywhere in the engine bay and while the coolant

Backstory: Was driving home on the freeway the other night when I got a message on the dash saying engine was overheating and to idle to cool the engine. Pause for older backstory...

Two months ago, I turned on the vehicle and the radiator fans kicked on full blast (despite the engine being cold) and it said to reduce acceleration to cool the engine - even though it was cold. Within a minute or two of idling, the engine temperature gauge shot up to 4//5 of the way to "H"; I figured it was a fault and drove it home and checked and found it had thrown an error code P1098. Dealership ended up needing to replace a faulty thermostat sensor.

Back to the other night - temperature jumps all the way to "H" and turns red. I figured it was the same thing and continued to drive it home (another 8 mins on the freeway before I get to my home exit). The vehicle then reduced my acceleration and eventually told me the engine had overheated and to turn off the engine. I pulled over and waited several minutes before turning the vehicle back on, temperatures at normal levels so I drive for a couple minutes at low speed before the temperature shoots up again to red. Rinse and repeat several times before I finally get it home.

I checked under the hood and something had sprayed everywhere - I figure it was coolant. Checked for error codes with OBD device the next day and no error codes thrown - so not another faulty therm sensor like I figured.

It's being towed to the dealership now for diagnosis.

End of story for now.

Anyone have any ideas of what could have caused this or have experienced something similar? With no error codes thrown, I'm wondering if the dealership didn't attach something correctly when they fixed it last time or if a hose cracked. Now that the engine has overheated, I worry I'll be driving an engine that's had a heart attack once and its integrity is compromised. It started up fine when I had to back it out of the garage for the tow truck so no catastrophic damage but with two presumably related issues, I worry this will now be a pattern with the vehicle.

Spent 9 days in the shop last time around and the dealership said they won't even be able to look at mine for a couple days; if it gets to 30 in the shop, a lemon law replacement becomes an option.
 

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Stbentoak

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If you research P 1098 you'll get your answer. When this code was thrown, they replaced the wrong part.
If you kept driving it when you shouldn't have and damaged some other things further... they may buck you on warranty.... Jus sayin....
 

StephenPT

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Coolant control valve is stuck closed. There's ball valves in the CCV that regulate coolant flow to 3 different circuits. The primary valve blocks coolant from leaving the engine block when it's cold to provide for quicker warmup. Yours isn't opening, so it's overheating. My guess is that the temperature created enough pressure that either the valve itself or one of the hoses attached to it burst and coolant sprayed everywhere.
 

jfoj

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The 3.0 Duramax is known to have a few problems that cause overheating. I think one is the EGR cooler? plastic that cracks cannot recall if this is for the 3.0l, also the coolant control valve has a hose that leaks often if not installed correctly. These leaks tend initially leak slightly early on only giving a coolant smell then later on catastrophically fail.

Search around and you will find the 2 most common 3.0 Diesel leaks.

Also make sure to change the engine oil after any overheat!!!

Hope this is not what needs to be done to your truck!

Body OFF Frame!
 
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navyseal334

navyseal334

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Yikes. Makes me want to look at a Toyota Sequoia but it won't have the space I need for wife + 6 kids.

I hate what the automotive world has devolved into. High-tech and finnicky. My 2008 Honda Accord hasn't given me a single complaint in its significantly longer/less "smart" life.
 
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navyseal334

navyseal334

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They think there was an air bubble in the coolant system which caused it to overheat. They vacuumed it out and tested it and it's ready for pickup.

Given they didn't seal the system properly when they replaced the thermostat sensor two months ago, would I have any leg to stand on (and likelihood of success) in asking them to add time onto the warranty to protect against additional issues from their repair work?
 

jfoj

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I would do a really deep Internet search on the 3.0 Duramax and coolant smell, coolant leaks. There are PLENTY out there. Many of the leaks are cracked plastic parts or hoses that leak VERY slowly. An overnight pressure test may be needed, but sometimes the plastic cracks do not open up until the engine heats up.

Anyway, if they send it home with you, I would be checking the coolant level daily for the first week and they weekly if nothing obvious is happening during the daily checks. When there are coolant leaks, sometimes the slow ones are hard to trace.

If it overheated bad and you drove it any distance overheated, I would change the oil, the oil could break down quickly from the higher temps and the 0W20 they run in the Diesels is borderline protection.
 

DuraYuk

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What? Your engine overheated and you kept driving because of an assumption?

I bet valve stuck closed. Engine overheated. Coolant sprayed from overflow tank.

These have a bit more complicated thermostat block. Sorry about your luck but its a quick enough fix only potentially made worse by driving it.

Things you don't assume are the sensor = coolant temp and oil pressure. Could it be a sensor ? Sure. Is the gamble worth it? No
 

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