4 in lift for 2 door Tahoe w/ Autotrac - Kit & wheel offset recommendations for factory flares

[CSX]

Hi all - I've been playing with the idea of lifting my '99 2 door for years, but had difficulties finding a 4" kit for Autotrac models that don't increase the front track width - Rough Country seems to have been the only one but I didn't like the idea of having to decrank for the 4" lift (since they design their kits for 4" and 6" use). Currently, my Tahoe is stock with a front crank (done by the previous owner) and has always been floaty - it currently wears 285/75/16 BFG Mud Terrains on the stock 16" wheels (which rub the front sway bar slightly under full lock).

I'd like to stick with 33" tires and the factory 3.73 gearing since it's not a dedicated off-roader, hence the desire for a 4 in lift (you're welcome to change my mind).

So my questions.

1) What kit do you recommend that meets all of these criteria:
-4" lift and fits 33" tires with on trimming
-No track width increase
-Autotrac compatible
-Level CV angles once installed (not a dig at Rough Country, and maybe this is my only option, I just don't like the sound of being decranked but maybe that's not founded)

I know of the Rough Country PN# 27430, and see that ProComp makes a couple of kits (K1053B and K1049B which differ just in shock choice) but they do not specify if it is Autotrac compatible. Any other options to consider?

2) I'm looking for a 17" wheel when I do this lift; most of the kits seem to require 4-4.5" of backspacing, but I am also looking to utilize the extra width from the factory flares. For those of you with aftermarket wheels and factory flares, what width/offset/backspace did you go with and how flush does it sit with the flares?

Thank you all for your help on this. Below is how the Tahoe sits today with the cranked bars, as well as the motivating factor for finally getting answers on this (the recent rising temps no doubt led to the sudden death of my BFG).

 

[noabarron3]

Did you end up following through with the lift? I'm definitely doing a 4'' but I'm going with the superlift 4-6 in case I wanna go higher... deciding between 33s and 35s. LMK what you did and post a pic if u can.

 

[CSX]

Did you end up following through with the lift? I'm definitely doing a 4'' but I'm going with the superlift 4-6 in case I wanna go higher... deciding between 33s and 35s. LMK what you did and post a pic if u can.

No, not yet - nobody has been able to share any of their experiences with a 4" kit. Rough Country and Superlift are very similar in that they are roughly a 5" drop and are decranked to get 4" of total suspension lift. I've tried reaching out to ProComp regarding their 4" lift but nobody from customer service has gotten back to me.

My main hangup with the RCX and Superlift kits are with having to crank either way to achieve the rated lift; to me, a kit that with the amount of front end drop that matches the desired lift amount is ideal and will retain the most OEM-like suspension geometry (and put the least stress on the front end) but I have yet to find a 4" kit for these trucks that does exactly that.

 

[noabarron3]

No, not yet - nobody has been able to share any of their experiences with a 4" kit. Rough Country and Superlift are very similar in that they are roughly a 5" drop and are decranked to get 4" of total suspension lift. I've tried reaching out to ProComp regarding their 4" lift but nobody from customer service has gotten back to me.

My main hangup with the RCX and Superlift kits are with having to crank either way to achieve the rated lift; to me, a kit that with the amount of front end drop that matches the desired lift amount is ideal and will retain the most OEM-like suspension geometry (and put the least stress on the front end) but I have yet to find a 4" kit for these trucks that does exactly that.

I decided on the super lift 4-6 kit (with the blisteins) on my 94’ Blazer. I originally was set on the 33s as I also wanted to stick with the 3.73s...
I said screw it and got some Wrangler Duratrac 35s on some 16x8s with a neutral offset.
I’m taking the risk, we’ll see if I have to do any trimming or crank the front to 6”.
The 35s should be fine with the 3.73s I might lose some top end power but beyond that I don’t see any other issues beyond speedo calibration.
I’ll post pictures when I’m through and let you know my opinions.

 

[DanSchmidt]

Following this - I just started researching lifts for my 1996 2-door Tahoe, and have the all the same questions. I was originally thinking 35s, but wondering if 33s wouldn't be easier. I'm reading several places that 35s need a 6" suspension lift plus 1" blocks, and you really need to regear for them. Will be interested to hear what you all end up with.

The two kits I've been looking at are:
BDS 6"
ProComp 4"

 

[Tiki]

My OBS with a 6” Procomp lift fit 37s on stock GM wheels (and they were 13.50s I believe). I have always been a fan of full-drop lifts as they retain factory turning radius and typically allow you to be able to run stockers when needed. They were selling different PNs but if memory serves many of the 6” full drops were actually 4” adjusted to 6”. Main component to addressing autotrac was the driveshaft, I believe there were some companies selling specific new front driveshafts with those back in the day. Hard to remember back to when I was doing mine fresh out of high school lol.

 

[TARDIS]

My OBS with a 6” Procomp lift fit 37s on stock GM wheels (and they were 13.50s I believe). I have always been a fan of full-drop lifts as they retain factory turning radius and typically allow you to be able to run stockers when needed. They were selling different PNs but if memory serves many of the 6” full drops were actually 4” adjusted to 6”. Main component to addressing autotrac was the driveshaft, I believe there were some companies selling specific new front driveshafts with those back in the day. Hard to remember back to when I was doing mine fresh out of high school lol.

With your PrComp 6”, what elelectric, brake, etc., lines did you need to extend ?
Also did you need to regear?

your set up looks GREAT.

 

[Tiki]

With your PrComp 6”, what elelectric, brake, etc., lines did you need to extend ?
Also did you need to regear?

your set up looks GREAT.

Many years ago, I honestly have no idea but I’d imagine it’s pretty straight forward. I did not regear and would definitely NOT recommend doing the same thing. 5.7s need all the help they can get.