AC Compressor is Noisy. Probably the clutch

[Willizm]

Hi all, so I'm trying to diagnose this noisy coming from the compressor on my 2010 Escalade. It sounds like a grinding noise and come and goes with RPM or if the car is started cold. The car blows cold air fine and the clutch engages and disengages fine as well. Anyway I'm almost certain it's the clutch itself. Seems to only happen when the AC is on. I'll try to get some video when it's happening. Truck has 110k miles on it.

I'm trying to figure out what all i will need to replace it. I'm going to get a new stretch fit belt and install tool for it as well. When it comes to the clutch I found an acdelco replacement.

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-47...8&sr=1-1&keywords=gm+20906283#customerReviews

Will I need any additional tools to get the clutch off? AC Installer/removal tools? I'm going to grab some snap ring plyers as well. Anything else I'm missing for those that have done this on the 07-14 trucks?

 

[OR VietVet]

I doubt it is the clutch. If is related to a/c then would suspect that the pulley bearing is going out and had additional stress when the clutch engages and makes it work harder.

 

[Willizm]

I doubt it is the clutch. If is related to a/c then would suspect that the pulley bearing is going out and had additional stress when the clutch engages and makes it work harder.

Yeah I could see that being the case. The clutch kit above contains that bearing (on the right) that you are speaking about or is there a bearing inside the actual compressor itself? I figured I'd be replacing both the bearing and clutch but probably just leave the original coil since it's working fine. Replace coil later if it gives me a problem.

 

[OR VietVet]

I have never seen a clutch "kit" contain the bearing for the pulley. But that may be the norm now. The bearing is for the pulley that the belt rides on. No bearing needed for the clutch itself. If you do replace the clutch then I recommend replacing the coil while in there. You do what you want though.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

I'd question ANY tensioner in the circuit before the clutch itself. The factory units are iffy, at best, and most replacements are wear items.

IFF you don't have another vehicle, get a replacement tensioner, and when you get home, pull the belt. Then hand-turn the clutch pulley to feel for any roughness. If it feels smooth, turn the tensioner pulley by hand and see if it feels rough. Then check to see if it wobbles any. If that feels fine, te turn the tensioner with a ull handle, like you are installing a new belt. I bet you will either feel a wobble in the tensioner pulley, or in the tensioner itself.

I say pick up a tensioner before you test because I've had them break when pulling the belt off. =8-0

---------- Post added at 09:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 PM ----------

To answer your original question, though, I've not had to replace a clutch on anything later than 1995, but you needed a clutch remover and installer tool to accomplish that. I suspect things haven't changed. Those tools were rentable from the parts house, though. I just bought my own set.