Adjusting Headlights

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Fearz

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My 5k 35w hids look as they produce less light than my 10k 35w. I think if I adjust them up a little bit it could help.

Now my question is if I adjust them could I mess up anything?

Also has anybody adjusted there own headlight and what did you use (Star Socket or Screwdriver) ?
 

CodeB4U

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I think it's just that your use to seeing the 10k make everything glow like if it was under a black light, but as far as production of actual light, it should be the same.

But, it's your truck, try adjusting your aim.

It's an inverted torx, just pull up to a wall or in your garage and move them up a little, make sure not to much or your glare will blind on coming traffic.

Reason for the wall is so you can have them even and so you can tell if you need to spin clock wise or counter clock wise to raise the beam.
 
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Fearz

Fearz

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I think it's just that your use to seeing the 10k make everything glow like if it was under a black light, but as far as production of actual light, it should be the same.

But, it's your truck, try adjusting your aim.

It's an inverted torx, just pull up to a wall or in your garage and move them up a little, make sure not to much or your glare will blind on coming traffic.

Reason for the wall is so you can have them even and so you can tell if you need to spin clock wise or counter clock wise to raise the beam.



I think it maybe the samething that is happening. I don't have a inverted torx socket so I'm trying to see has anyone adjusted them with a flathead screw driver.
 

ChrisAU

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You will not be able to adjust them with a flat head screwdriver. Go to an auto parts and get an inverted torx socket, I believe it is T-40. I did this just last week to get mine up and it was like $3 and change. Just leave the plastic in the socket as you can turn the adjustment with it, no need even for a ratchet.
 

Fast55

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A 1/4" socket (six point), will work just fine and no damage to the adjuster. Your left (passenger) headlight should actually be just a little higher than the right side.
 

domin8

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You will not be able to adjust them with a flat head screwdriver. Go to an auto parts and get an inverted torx socket, I believe it is E-40. I did this just last week to get mine up and it was like $3 and change. Just leave the plastic in the socket as you can turn the adjustment with it, no need even for a ratchet.

fixed for you :Handshake:
 

ChrisAU

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fixed for you :Handshake:

Oh are the inverted ones E-XX? I've never noticed. But the size of the adjustment is T-40. Of course, the guys at the part store told me that female torx sockets didn't exist, so I got one of the shelf and showed it to them.
 
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Fearz

Fearz

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Chris how much did you adjust them up? Also are you saying once I get the socket I can turn the plastic piece by hand?
 
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ChrisAU

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Yeah the plastic piece turns easily if you have something to grip it with, or at least mine did. I have no idea, I cranked them up a lot though. Mine were bad for some reason, I could not see exits coming up on the interstate...
 

CodeB4U

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Basic how to if you feel better reading over stuff:




The area should consist of a level surface large enough to allow for a vehicle and an additional 7.62 m (25 ft) as measured from the face of the headlamps to the aiming screen.

The screen should be a wall or other flat surface at least 1.52 m (5 ft) high by 3.66 m (12 ft) wide with a matte white surface well shaded from extraneous light, and 90 degrees to the floor (a). The screen should be provided with a permanent vertical reference line 0.61 m (2 ft) from the left edge of the screen, 2 laterally adjustable vertical tapes, and one vertically adjustable horizontal tape.

After the aiming screen has been set up and located, paint or tape a reference line on the floor 15.24 m (50 ft) from the vertical reference line on the screen. This line should be perpendicular to the aiming screen and a mark placed at 7.62 m (25 ft) from the screen.
Headlamp Aiming Procedure

Align the left tires of the vehicle with the reference line extending from the screen with the headlamps aligned with the reference line.
Remove any snow, ice or mud from the vehicle.
The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while the headlamp aiming is being done.
The vehicle should contain cargo or be loaded to represent normal vehicle use.
Tires should be properly inflated.
Rock the vehicle to stabilize the suspension.
Measure from the floor to the center of the lamp bulb on the vehicle. Some lamps have an aim dot marked on the lens.
At the screen, measure from the floor and place the horizontal tape at the measured distance.

Measure from the reference line on the floor to the left headlamp bulb centerline (1).
At the screen, measure from the reference line and place the vertical tape at the measured distance (2).
Measure from the reference line on the floor to the right headlamp bulb centerline.
At the screen, measure from the reference line and place the vertical tape at the measured distance.
Turn the headlamps ON.
Block the light from projecting onto the screen from the passenger side headlamp. This will allow the cutoff in the beam pattern from the drivers side to be more pronounced for easier aim verification.

Important: DO NOT cover the headlamp, this may cause excessive heat build up.
On this vehicle you will be verifying the aim of the vertical cutoff on the right side of the lamp vertical bulb centerline as it is projected onto the aim board.
If the location of the cutoff projected onto the board differs from figure 4 then an adjustment to the beam pattern location is necessary.
Adjust the vertical headlamp adjustment screw until the Right Gradient Line (Cutoff Line) is set at the Horizontal Axis within +/- 2.0 inches (2) measured at 25feet.
Verify proper aim location.
Repeat the aiming procedure for the passengers side headlamp while blocking the light from projecting onto the screen from the drivers side headlamp.
 

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