Aftermarket compatibility with Bose and Steering Wheel

[jatkinson123]

I am putting an aftermarket radio into an 04 Yukon Denali (originally had a factory nav). Will aftermarket radios be compatible with the Bose system and/or the steering wheel controls? Does that depend on which model I get and how much I'm willing to pay?

Thanks
James

 

[NathanJax]

All aftermarket radios are compatible. You just have to purchase the correct harness to attach the radio to the vehicle.

 

[seven9st surfer]

Yeah, as long as you get the right harness, you should be able to use any aftermarket stereo. I've got a Sony 660BT in my 03 Yukon, and used the PAC OS2CBOSE to connect the two. That one should work for you, its made for the models with Bose stock. Then for the steering wheel interface, it depends on what brand aftermarket you get. Here's PACs site and the options for interfaces, depending on which brand you go with.

 

[jatkinson123]

Thanks, what happens if I don't buy the Bose adapter. What will I "lose"? Is it some sort of premium sound or will I literally have no sound at all?

 

[seven9st surfer]

Here's a thread I started a while back with the same issue you're having now. In a nutshell, the previous owner had the aftermarket unit put in at an audio shop, where they told him that the speakers were being double-amped by the unit itself and the bose amp. The volume was very loud even at one. So the "professionals" chopped up all the wiring, bypassed the Bose amp (and subwoofer) and hardwired the head unit to the speakers. Sound was meh, and had no sub. I did a bunch of research and tried out the above harness, which was designed to work with the bose systems (and amps) and therefore didn't have the volume problem.

So in summary, no adapter means a lot of splicing the factory harnesses and bypassing the Bose amp, and not having a sub. You'll get sound out of your speakers, but only using the amp built into your stereo. Hope that helps.

Adapter means only splicing your stereo to the adapter, and other than that, it's plug and play and you retain all your premium sound and OnStar capability (if you have it). That's what the "OS" is in the part name.

 

[Legacyman]

I used the Pac audio harness for Bose integration. It worked very well. The steering wheel control harness I got was from Axxess. It is called the aswc. I did a bunch of research and found that not only the set up and wiring of the axxess unit was easier, but the number of bad units was far less than the pac SWC. The other thing I like about the Axxess unit is it taps into the wiring directly behind the radio. On the Pac unit you have to splice under the steering column.

 

[seven9st surfer]

Good info, legacyman. Luckily, the steering wheel adapter was already installed in my case, and haven't had any problems with it yet. But yeah, Axxess is definitely a viable option as well

 

[magicbus]

Bose is easily bypassed by using the connector behind the A/C controls. It will be clipped behind the sub-dash and will be the standard audio plug (male) and connects to a female plug that is basically a jumper between the stereo and the amp. Going this route you will lose everything except for the 4 door speakers. I have been bypassing bose this way for years when adding a low budget radio or adding an aftermarket 4-channel and speakers. It's how I bypassed mine, Im still running factory bose speakers with a 4-channel rockford because I've been too busy elsewhere to install my components but it has been working great since July. If you are wanting the cheapest out and dont care to keep onstar(useless and overpriced anyway) or bose(see onstar comment), I would use a Metra GMRC-01 or PAC equivalent, with a PAC steering wheel control module and bypass bose like I just explained. With the GMRC-01 you can disconnect the internal speaker to easily be rid of those obnoxious warning chimes. Other interfaces usually relay the chimes through the module to the speakers, you can only turn them down (maybe) with these. I'm using a GMOS-04 because I got it for free in mine only for the RAP.

 

[mech5700]

GMOS-04, ASWC-1, and 40-GM10 will be the three things you need. All available on amazon. Just did my install a few weeks ago.

 

[Twin336]

Bose is easily bypassed by using the connector behind the A/C controls. It will be clipped behind the sub-dash and will be the standard audio plug (male) and connects to a female plug that is basically a jumper between the stereo and the amp. Going this route you will lose everything except for the 4 door speakers. I have been bypassing bose this way for years when adding a low budget radio or adding an aftermarket 4-channel and speakers. It's how I bypassed mine, Im still running factory bose speakers with a 4-channel rockford because I've been too busy elsewhere to install my components but it has been working great since July. If you are wanting the cheapest out and dont care to keep onstar(useless and overpriced anyway) or bose(see onstar comment), I would use a Metra GMRC-01 or PAC equivalent, with a PAC steering wheel control module and bypass bose like I just explained. With the GMRC-01 you can disconnect the internal speaker to easily be rid of those obnoxious warning chimes. Other interfaces usually relay the chimes through the module to the speakers, you can only turn them down (maybe) with these. I'm using a GMOS-04 because I got it for free in mine only for the RAP.

Hi I'm new here. I was wondering if I can bypass my bose in my 03 Yukon denali like this. Ok. I have two amps, one for door speakers and the other for my sub.

I also have an equalizer too. And brand new door speakers. But waiting on my double din


Now is it possible to bypass my bose like this. I'm going to run my aftermarket speakers direct to the amp using speaker wire from all for doors

Connecting four Rca cables, one cable to the equalizer input and three to the amps. One for the sub and two for the interior speakers.

I know I have to run power to the amp ect

Now my plan is to run the harness that comes with the radio and find a constant 12v and a remote turn on and ground, that way the remaining wires to the harness are speaker wires that I do not need to touch at all being that I'll be running new wire.

Now am I bypassing the amp doing it this way?

I've done setup in my previous car with this setup

And the harness that I'll be unplugging from the factory radio will just be sitting there not in use.

By the way I have on-star and navi. I don't care to loose my chimes, rear functions and steering wheel controls.

Thank you