Alarm opinions needed

[Danielgreig]

So, I am looking into getting a decent alarm for my 2004 Tahoe LT. I have been looking into a couple different Viper ones but I do not know anything about the different brands and options these things come with. I know I would like the remote start and two way paging as features but as far as anything else goes, I am not sure. I am tossing up in the air the install of doing it myself or having an installer do it for me. I have been reading that there are certain modules/interfaces that help make the install much easier. What reasonably priced alarm brands/models do you guys recommend and what different parts am I going to need to make it all work and make the install a lot easier. Also, does anyone know of someone or even someone here that I can contact to get me a good price on everything I am going to need?
Thanks


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[magicbus]

I use Code Alarm on every one of my vehicles for one reason and one reason only; their patented RPS or real panic sound. When the alarm is triggered it honks the horn randomly as if someone were in the vehicle honking it. I've used other brands like Clifford, autopage, Viper, etc. One of my vehicles with a viper was broken into at a friend's apartment. We even heard the alarm go off and didn't go to investigate because every single alarm sounds the same and we figured it was his neighbor's which always false alarms. It was mine and apparently no one else went to check either because they got my radio, subs, cleaned out my console, and everything else of value. Three weeks later, after I installed the code alarm that I had heard about, the same truck got broken into and just about everyone in the complex was looking into the parking lot. All they did this time was try to break the window.

As for module, I know expresskit was good several years ago. Audiovox (the company that owns code systems) makes some good modules and their site can help you select the correct one. The modules are pretty cool. They operate heated seats, defrosters, and can be wired to operate windows up.
Edit: Also, I had only witnessed one code system fail when I installed them professionally for three years, in the six months I installed DEI (Viper, Python, Clifford) I serviced at least three warranties.

 

[Danielgreig]

Thanks for the reply... I will check that company out. What should I be paying for a decent alarm? Is it something I can install myself? If not, how much should a shop be charging for an install? I only ask so I don't get ripped off....I don't have a clue on he price of this stuff.


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[kdavis61]

I would NOT NOT NOT buy a Directed Electronics alarm (Viper, Clifford, Python, etc) they are the biggest rip off. Plus they are cheaply made, my remote of 4 months is cracked and I can't replace it because I am out of my "Lifetime Warrantee."

 

[Gzes]

I run viper on my hoe. Its like a old model but works great and havnt had problmes with it. It automatically arms itself if it senses no activity for a lil bit and so sensitive my subs will make it go off lol

 

[magicbus]

Thanks for the reply... I will check that company out. What should I be paying for a decent alarm? Is it something I can install myself? If not, how much should a shop be charging for an install? I only ask so I don't get ripped off....I don't have a clue on he price of this stuff.


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If you have a good knowledge of installation you can install it yourself no problem. All that is involved is some multimeter testing, soldering, and taping. bulldogsecurity.com has decent, free wire info that has been accurate for me so far. If you were closer I would be glad to install it for you on the cheap.

I believe my rates at the shops I worked at were around $200 for remote start and alarm if it was out product or $300 if it was bought somewhere else. That was about 5 years ago though and the Texas market may be different than the Oregon market.

I have bought several code systems off of eBay but have yet to check amazon (I bought some shocks today for half what I would've paid on eBay). I paid about half of retail on eBay.

These trucks are very simple. The bypass module does everything and you should be able to connect the bypass to the alarm via d2d (data to data), thus eliminating the need to hardwire the module to the alarm. You will need to hook the data wire from the module to the data wire on the OBDII. Done, your aftermarket unit will operate exactly like the OEM system. If you have heated seats the module will turn those on at 30* along with the defrost. You will need to use the alarm to operate things like parking lights, ignition wiring, horn, rear door pins(alarm), and whatever auxiliaries you may want to operate.

And just to throw this out there, my wife's Yukon has a code alarm unit that has been installed in three different vehicles over the course of 5 years and has not once failed. Mine has one that has been in and out of 4 cars over the same time period and never given trouble.

Feel free to email me any questions you may have; [email protected]

 

[Danielgreig]

Thanks magicbus....this is a lot of great info. I will start shopping around and see if I can figure out am the parts I will need. I might email you soon with some more questions though....lol


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[magicbus]

You're welcome, that is why I'm here.
I think the Audiovox FLDL1 is the bypass you will need, I'm using the older version XK01 because I had it left over from when I used to install. Like I said before, this module works doorlocks, passkey bypass, RAP shutoff (radio stays off during remote start and after timeout or shutdown), heated seats, rear defrost, driver priority or unlock all at once.
Code Alarm can also be used with carlink so you can control everything with your smartphone. I never got to install one but I hear they work great. It allegedly works from the iphone as fast as the remote.

Keep in mind, I do not sell Code Alarm or get any sort of kickbacks from Audiovox for recommending their products, I'm just that much of a believer in Code Alarm.