Ok guys just upgraded most of the Batt cables. I didn't do the ACC power cable yet just put a new end on it. I was checking voltage at the ACC/fuse box after upgrading and I am getting ok power under load with lights on, A/C front and rear full on, Stereo system cranked up with sub pounding in drive idle with foot on brakes. 12.05 to 11.75 Almost the same story at the batt, 12.25. I think the alt needs upgrading because I checked RPO codes and it is the 100amp alt.
Now my questions. Since I am seeing damn near the same voltage at the batt under all of that load.
1. is upgrading to a 135amp alt going to be enough to cure this lowish voltage at idle? It's ok while cruising or just even coming off idle to 1000 rpms. I see 12.39 or so at the fuse block but it still bounces a bit down close to 12.
2. Is this a product of the wire running over to the fuse block? It's a 6 gauge wire. The wire I used of the ALT is 4 gauge. The alt is really hot after putting all that load on it for about 5 min. I tested temp after engine was to temp and idle for 5 min with low load and then again with load and the temp increased big time as expected.
3. Will a bolt in higher amp alt replacement do any better at idle as far as amps are concerned? In other words will it produce more amps at the low idle speeds in gear?
4. What part number and vehicles do the bolt in replacements come from?
Finally what would you use? My system consists of a Kicker 350.4 about 50 to 60 watt to 4 ch's. Mono California profile 700M. God really knows with these but my guess is 350watt. I tow a boat a lot with double brake light setup (High set LED lower set bulbs) and love loud music. I don't want to get into custom brackets and what not. Just a good bolt in to give me the power to run what I have.
Thanks for the help.
Now my questions. Since I am seeing damn near the same voltage at the batt under all of that load.
1. is upgrading to a 135amp alt going to be enough to cure this lowish voltage at idle? It's ok while cruising or just even coming off idle to 1000 rpms. I see 12.39 or so at the fuse block but it still bounces a bit down close to 12.
2. Is this a product of the wire running over to the fuse block? It's a 6 gauge wire. The wire I used of the ALT is 4 gauge. The alt is really hot after putting all that load on it for about 5 min. I tested temp after engine was to temp and idle for 5 min with low load and then again with load and the temp increased big time as expected.
3. Will a bolt in higher amp alt replacement do any better at idle as far as amps are concerned? In other words will it produce more amps at the low idle speeds in gear?
4. What part number and vehicles do the bolt in replacements come from?
Finally what would you use? My system consists of a Kicker 350.4 about 50 to 60 watt to 4 ch's. Mono California profile 700M. God really knows with these but my guess is 350watt. I tow a boat a lot with double brake light setup (High set LED lower set bulbs) and love loud music. I don't want to get into custom brackets and what not. Just a good bolt in to give me the power to run what I have.
Thanks for the help.
