Amp Meter [Amp Clamp] Recommendations?

[Fless]

I'm chasing an intermittent battery drain on my '04, and would like to get a few recommendations for a decent inductive ammeter for DC. Looking to spend under $75 or so.

I can do the online shopping and reviews so I would prefer recommendations, good or bad, for a meter that you've used or know about. Would appreciate first person reviews from the gallery.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: after looking at some meters and reviews I may have to UP my price range.

 

[Fless]

...

 

[drakon543]

ive always stuck with fluke brand meters. some of the cheaper models can also be hooked up to an external amp clamp. not sure on overall price but buying a cheaper meter and just an accessory might be cheaper than buying one built with an amp clamp.

 

[Danny3737]

Fluke meters can be pricey, but they are worth it

ive always stuck with fluke brand meters. some of the cheaper models can also be hooked up to an external amp clamp. not sure on overall price but buying a cheaper meter and just an accessory might be cheaper than buying one built with an amp clamp.

 

[Fless]

I'll probably start with my cheapie DVOM (10A limit, which should be okay) and connect it inline for now, although I'd have to remove it to start and drive. Also going to borrow my son's amp clamp since he's not using it right now.

 

[exp500]

I picked up a hall effect meter on Amazon for cheap, around $15.Put it in a small cigar box. Have to put Batt cable thru 1 inch ring, but ring and lead unplug from guage. It is reasonaby accurate(10-20 Ma resolution) and good for 100 amps, perfect for parasitic drains that are interrmittant. I use 200Ma as a baseline number, If started twice a week 200Ma is ok. Once a week, 100Ma is pushing upper limit of draw.
Most of my amp clamps aren't accurate enough on DC connections- not repeatable after reclamped.I think it is thickness of insulation/ shape of field. Way cheaper than overamping my Fluke on inline connection and replacing fuse again and again.

 

[Fless]

Son's amp clamp was the same way, not sensitive enough. So I got one of these and wired the shunt into the negative battery connection.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...2TZZBEHYNES5VB7Z&pd_rd_w=1UnYQ&pd_rd_wg=Jjr8g




Before that I had a DVOM connected inline while doing some testing but of course I can't start the truck with that in there. I caught it drawing 1.5a (asleep) and killed the radio circuit to get it back down. This way I can monitor it while I'm able to run it, and will be extending the wires this weekend to get it into the cab. I don't think it will be permanent, it's kind of frankenstein-ish at the battery but should be okay for a couple of months or until I figure out what part of the radio system is causing it. Could be the Kenwood or the PAC SWC box, I guess. Or a wiring issue, but I was pretty cautious when I installed it. I did manage to update the firmware on the Kenwood.

Currently (pun intended) it's drawing between 21 and 24ma at rest. Everything goes to sleep pretty fast, easily within a minute.

 

[Doubeleive]

I picked up a Ideal 61-734 used off ebay for about $50 it's a nice little meter for the price I use it all the time

 

[Doubeleive]

none on ebay at the moment but I see new ones on line for about $85

 

[Fless]

none on ebay at the moment but I see new ones on line for about $85

Specs say they're for AC current, not DC. The AC clamps are relatively cheap, and the DC ones are $$$ if you want to see below 0.1A.