Best flex brake lines?

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Matthew Jeschke

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My truck chassis has 270,000 miles on it. I think it's time to go through the brake system and start upgrade and replacing parts as preventative maintenance. My first item to attack will be the flex lines. I see there's multiple companies out there but not really sure what is "marketing hype" and what's "actually good".


My requirement is, it should be compatible with pressures for hydro boost brake system. If I ever get a wild hair I want to swap in hydro boost. Also I think I'll do a 2010 suburban front brake swap. I see the 2020 swap is better but I don't like the clearance issues, even as minor as they seem. I want everything to bolt on and slide in behind my 17" snowflake (factory) wheels (picture below).

1. What's a good quality flex line kit?
2. What other components should I inspect / replace if necessary?


I assume hard lines so long as not rusted or rubbed through are fine?
I assume the master cylinder, reservoir and booster don't really wear?

Otherwise, (3) what's a good master cylinder and reservoir upgrade?

I hope to get this all fixed up in next couple weeks as I have a several thousand mile road trip to go on. My primary focus being the flex lines and potentially warn out parts. Upgrades / retrofitting newer stuff secondary.

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Final note, I don't know why people complain about the NBS / GMT800 brakes? Maybe for trailering? I can lock up all fours pretty easily with mine. Although might be nice if I didn't have to apply quite as much pedal force. I can also beat the living he LL out of them and it still works like new. I drive down mountains for hour+ at a time using only brakes (not downshifting) and have never had an issue. When I do this with my Buick seems I almost always end up with warped rotors.
 

Marky Dissod

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I'd just stick with OEM ones and be done with it. They lasted 270k, so obviously they are good quality.
They should handle any braking pressure needed to stop - vacuum or hydro-boost.
GM OE fabircated in 2001 lasted him 270k.
How sure are you that GM OE parts for an '01, made in '23 or '24, are as good as they were in '01?

GM has made habit of relabeling aftermarket supplier's parts as ACDelco OE.
I'd prefer to just use GM's aftermarket supplier directly.
 

strutaeng

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I ordered some GM Genuine replacement front brake lines for my 06 Suburban 2500. I rebuilt the entire front end and one line had started to fray at the knuckle clamp. That was like 18 months ago. Truck is at 262k.

I'm replacing them this summer...will probably flush brake fluid and purge all lines.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Thanks everybody I found a made in the usa set of braided flex lines. There's a couple other made in China kits but I didn't even want to go there despite good reviews on Amazon and lots of YouTubers using it... Although, really that might be a warning sign in itself.


@Sam Harris I saw the Goodrige brand but couldn't find a parts catalogue or reseller to buy them. Out of curiosity where did you get yours?

I didn't pay nearly that much summit racing seems to have better pricing than direct from Classice Tube. Randle had a part number too but didn't include any of the factory fittings for hose management. You had to fabricate your own with that kit which what a hassle. Lastly, I looked into making my own. Doesn't appear too tricky but didn't want to fiddle with it.

Will update post once I have them on.

I am going to hold off on front brake upgrade for now. Settled on NNBS / GMT900 2010 or newer front brake callipers and rotors. I'd prefer the police pursuit configuration which I understand is just high temp piston seals. My goal is if possible to find a rebuild kit with those high temp seals and pull the brakes, rotors, and pads at junkyard. Only thing is closets junkyard with them at it is a four hour round trip from my house so I'm holding off.

Otherwise, Power Stop makes a complete kit w/o the high temp seals for $400. I don't know why though I've never been fond on their stuff although I've never tried it out.
 

2006Tahoe2WD

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I'd just stick with OEM ones and be done with it. They lasted 270k, so obviously they are good quality. They should handle any braking pressure needed to stop - vacuum or hydro-boost.
Some/most? aftermarket lines don't have a verified pass of the whip test. I would stick with OEM.
 

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