Body plugs

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5strmtrp

5strmtrp

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I’m trying to put it in the same place as a antenna I presume was for the PD the truck came from. Here are some pics of the predicament I’m in. Have no flipping idea how to remove this?



If your looking to add the SirusXM antenna, I slapped it on top towards the rear, then feed it through the 3rd brake light gasket and routed it to the front.

below are some photos I just took. Sorry the Tahoe is in the garage as I’m doing some body work and the photos look bad.

not for nothing, but I hated all the holes on the roof. Decided to drop the headliner and patch them with Those adhesive 3M body patches, then used Dolphin Glaze, paint and clear. Also gave me an opportunity to Use sound deadening On the entire roof.

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PPV12HOE

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With those flat spots on it it looks like it would unscrew... my 2 cents worth... I have yet to remove the antennas on mine and unless they start to leak I probably never will...
 

Rocket Man

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I’m trying to put it in the same place as a antenna I presume was for the PD the truck came from. Here are some pics of the predicament I’m in. Have no flipping idea how to remove this?





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I used to install those antennas. You need to hold the center by using something like a pair of needle nose pliers in those 2 small holes and then unscrew the large nut ( it only has 2 flat sides) with a big wrench, crescent will work. After you unscrew the nut you can move the base to one side, tilt it up and out. There will be coax cable on the underside, you can just cut it.
 

balln2k11

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Unfortunately you have to remove the headliner to get that antenna out. It leaves a big hole. I removed mine when I removed my headliner. It was a pain in the but
 

Rocket Man

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Unfortunately you have to remove the headliner to get that antenna out. It leaves a big hole. I removed mine when I removed my headliner. It was a pain in the but
No you do not need to remove the headliner. We used to install those antennas, I’ve done hundreds. I did it without pulling a headliner, and snaked the coax from the top too without pulling a headliner. Follow the instructions I just posted.
 

Rocket Man

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I should add there’s a couple pointers to the removal of the antennas. First, it’s easier if you don’t remove the big outer nut completely, loosen it until there’s a few threads still engaged. It makes for a good way to hold onto it. Second, when sliding it to the side, make sure to slide it towards the side the coax exits from and rock it so the opposite ear lifts up above the body, then slide it to the side that’s lifted up until the side with the coax exiting clears, then lift that ear up. It’s easy once you figure it out. If you can’t see which side the coax exits because you can’t see from underneath (always lol) trial and error will tell because that side won’t come up first. They make rubber hole plugs that fit exactly, it’s a 3/4” hole. You want rubber, not plastic. The rubber ones don’t leak.3/4" 0.75 inch Black Rubber Plugs for Flush Mount Body and Sheet Metal Holes Qty 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LXJX88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jJsbFb3S2FBE4
 

RTLINGR2

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I agree with rocket man. I have installed a bunch of those antennas as well. Been a while though. We have not used them in probably 10 years now. But after reading rocket man's posts I started to remember the process. He is spot on. We use all glass mounts now and only drill the roof for the light bar cables.
 

RTLINGR2

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As far as roof plugs. If we take a unit off the road for patrol but is staying in the fleet (removing light bar), we will duct tape a piece of sheetmetal roughly two to three times the size of the hole to underside of the hole. Then we fill the hole on the outside with 3M Marine Adhesive part # 5200. Used to only come in caulk tube but can get in small toothpaste tube size now, less waste buy red tube not blue tube. Red will self level. Leave it piled up above the hole for a day. It will still settle. After 1st day you can go back with a razor knife and trim flush with roof. Takes about 7 days to cure totally. Roof will not leak after that.
If you look at electrical departments you can also buy bulk head connectors that seal with different size wires to go through the panel and still seal to the roof. Hope this helps.
 
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5strmtrp

5strmtrp

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I should add there’s a couple pointers to the removal of the antennas. First, it’s easier if you don’t remove the big outer nut completely, loosen it until there’s a few threads still engaged. It makes for a good way to hold onto it. Second, when sliding it to the side, make sure to slide it towards the side the coax exits from and rock it so the opposite ear lifts up above the body, then slide it to the side that’s lifted up until the side with the coax exiting clears, then lift that ear up. It’s easy once you figure it out. If you can’t see which side the coax exits because you can’t see from underneath (always lol) trial and error will tell because that side won’t come up first. They make rubber hole plugs that fit exactly, it’s a 3/4” hole. You want rubber, not plastic. The rubber ones don’t leak.3/4" 0.75 inch Black Rubber Plugs for Flush Mount Body and Sheet Metal Holes Qty 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LXJX88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jJsbFb3S2FBE4


You rock man! Thank you, think I’m understanding how to remove, will have to get on the ladder to do this as my fat ass will probably dent the roof. Want to utilize the hole to run my XM antenna wire thru there and to the head unit.

The upfitter that installed this used the rear cargo light as an access point thru the roof. Glad that I don’t have to pull the headliner, will use a coat hanger to pull the antenna wire to the front of the truck. Don’t want to mess with the airbags in the roof or take a chance of setting one of em off after I reconnect the battery.

I ordered the plugs off of Amazon, got a few plugs from Advanced auto but will return them.

Thanks again!
 

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