Bose Premium - possible to replace stock sub, keep all else the same?

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jerryjoe28

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I saw where a guy did something like this in his NNBS. He found the pins and connectors that match the OEM harness (same connector that is in the BOSE amp) and made a plug-and-play adapter harness to have RCAs right there. He said those were low-level signal wires from the radio that had a surprisingly clean signal. The BOSE amp was still in place so the rest of the sound processing (door/warning chimes) was functional. I'm considering doing more like what you mentioned- leaving it all hooked up as-is but just splicing into a right and left channel (probably should do the front?) with some short cables with female RCAs. I'd solder and heat shrink and make it neat. I need to research if the impedance of the long RCA cables ran to the back and of the input impedance of a sub amp would have any real effect on the signal going into the BOSE amp/processor. I wouldn't mind keeping the stock sub in place and functional for the higher bass frequencies and just add a nice single woofer in the back for some strong thump. I'd make it all removable with quick-disconnects on the wiring if I needed my cargo space and I'd still have some "bass sound" from the OEM setup.

if you are interested I can look and tell you exactly what color the wires are that where spliced into. im no longer using the factory wiring so it is still connected in there lol.... I was very functional I just wanted more so I upgraded every thing
 

Rocket Man

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Look, you are the one that claimed Scott was wrong: "He is most definitely NOT correct in his posts, much less dead-on accurate. A prime example is his understanding of impedance versus resistance."
I was simply showing how he was exactly correct in what he said. But I understand why you would chose to completely avoiding my questions/points further to go off on a tangent.

Since you aren't willing to have a rational, non-personal discussion that actually backs up your erroneous claims against Scott, I'm ok with your choice to avoid the issue.
! :)


Wow you don't know when to quit do you? Here's Scott's description and I quote:
" In extreme cases, too much resistance can be harmful but we're talking about nominal 4 ohms vs. 1 ohm. The impedance of any speaker varies with frequency. That's why it's called impedance and not resistance."

That is definitely not correct. Impedance is the AC equivalent of DC's resistance. It means to IMPEDE current flow, only it's called impedance because in an AC circuit there's something called REACTANCE. In Dc circuits it's simply RESISTANCE because it resists current flow and there is no reactance. It's the same thing in the simplest sense. AC and DC circuits have different analogy to describe the same basic functions. Impedance as well as resistance ALWAYS varies with frequency if you understand the very basic concepts of AC circuits. That's a given. But to say that the impedance of a speaker varies with frequency because it's impedance and not resistance is wrong, and that is NOT why it's called impedance. It's called impedance because it's affecting the AC sine wave of the audio. But I fail to see why any of this would matter to the OP. And now I will definitely end this conversation. You can carry on disputing me or trying to convince yourself that you and Scott are right, that's fine but I won't go to the trouble of explaining how wrong you both are. I have the feeling that you both might be the same person. Now if are you going to once again say that wasn't a "rational, non-personal discussion that actually backs up your erroneous claims against Scott " then I'd have to say you're just trying to create a problem. Have a good one. I'm done with this convo!
 

Rocket Man

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when I bought my truck the PO had installed a in "low line output" spliced right into the speaker wire in the console. ran RCAs to a after market amp and sub in the back. this would get you the extra "boom" u want and is not that hard to do! I actually just dumped all of my factory bose, new head unit, door speakers, amp, new wire and sub. WOW what a difference
That's what I recommended, with the addition of an amp turn on wire but maybe I made it sound too complicated! It actually sounds pretty clean especially if you use the sub's speaker wire which is already low frequency only.
 

scott6760

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Wow you don't know when to quit do you? Here's Scott's description and I quote:
" In extreme cases, too much resistance can be harmful but we're talking about nominal 4 ohms vs. 1 ohm. The impedance of any speaker varies with frequency. That's why it's called impedance and not resistance."

That is definitely not correct. Impedance is the AC equivalent of DC's resistance. It means to IMPEDE current flow, only it's called impedance because in an AC circuit there's something called REACTANCE. In Dc circuits it's simply RESISTANCE because it resists current flow and there is no reactance. It's the same thing in the simplest sense. AC and DC circuits have different analogy to describe the same basic functions. Impedance as well as resistance ALWAYS varies with frequency if you understand the very basic concepts of AC circuits. That's a given. But to say that the impedance of a speaker varies with frequency because it's impedance and not resistance is wrong, and that is NOT why it's called impedance. It's called impedance because it's affecting the AC sine wave of the audio. But I fail to see why any of this would matter to the OP. And now I will definitely end this conversation. You can carry on disputing me or trying to convince yourself that you and Scott are right, that's fine but I won't go to the trouble of explaining how wrong you both are. I have the feeling that you both might be the same person. Now if are you going to once again say that wasn't a "rational, non-personal discussion that actually backs up your erroneous claims against Scott " then I'd have to say you're just trying to create a problem. Have a good one. I'm done with this convo!


You're arguing semantics, and you're grasping at straws here. In an earlier post - which I don't feel like digging up and quoting - you said 'the impedance varies because the cone moves'. That is akin to saying 'the car travels down the road because people are inside'. While both things are in fact happening, they are not directly correlated. Your understanding of speaker impedance is clearly limited to what you've read on google. In fact, in another earlier post you alluded that everything in electronics is 'theory and not law'. Go ask your friend Google about Ohms Law.

You keep stating that the amp will be damaged if you connect a 4 ohm rated sub in place of a 2 ohm rated sub. What you're failing to understand is that the 2 ohm sub sees swings of 20+ ohms. If you measured the IMPEDANCE (and NOT with a multimeter, as that will just tell you the DC resistance of the voice coil at rest) you would see that. If you looked up the impedance plot like I suggested earlier, you would also see that.

Further, the amp doesn't really care at all about the impedance of the speaker. It cares about the current draw. The amp puts out a constant voltage for a given input signal. The WATTAGE - this is different than voltage - is determined by the impedance of the load. The lower the impedance, the greater the current draw. The amplifier is limited by how much current it can sustain.

I didn't come here to swing my dick or get in an argument about audio on a car forum. The point of my original comment was to try to help the OP with his subwoofer dilemma. I've spent the last 15 years designing and commissioning large format audio systems for stadiums, arenas, nightclubs, auditoriums, and performing arts centers. I've also mixed many Bands You've Heard Of[emoji769] on live shows, as well as provided sound reinforcement for several political figures such as Mitt Romney, Michelle Obama, Bill Clinton, and a few others.

I really couldn't care less if you believe me or agree with me. If you want to have a constructive discussion about audio, I'm happy to continue. If you want to continue to argue about impedance vs. resistance, I'm out.
 
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scott6760

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I need to research if the impedance of the long RCA cables ran to the back and of the input impedance of a sub amp would have any real effect on the signal going into the BOSE amp/processor.

While you are correct to consider the input impedance of your aftermarket amplifier vs. the output impedance of the Bose processor, it's really a moot point. By their very design the amplifier must have a very high input impedance, and the Bose processor must have a relatively low output impedance. You can usually split a line-level audio signal many times before impedance becomes a concern. You should NEVER combine two audio signals without using the proper resistors across the leads. Rane corporation has a very good white paper you can find if you google 'Why not Wye'. It's geared towards the Pro Audio industry but the concepts still apply.

I wouldn't mind keeping the stock sub in place and functional for the higher bass frequencies and just add a nice single woofer in the back for some strong thump. I'd make it all removable with quick-disconnects on the wiring if I needed my cargo space and I'd still have some "bass sound" from the OEM setup.

One thing you want to avoid whenever possible is having multiple sources playing the same information from different physical locations. You will get phase cancellation varying with frequency and location, which is commonly referred to as a comb filter. I believe the factory sub is in the center console, and your aftermarket sub will likely go in the cargo area, which would be a perfect recipe for a comb filter. To achieve constructive summation from the two sources they will need to be physically within 1/4 wavelength of each other at the highest frequency of interest.

The wavelength of an 80hz sine wave is 14.11', so 1/4 of that is about 3.5'. So, in order to achieve constructive summation the two drivers would need to be within 3.5 feet. If you lowered the crossover of the aftermarket sub to 50hz, the wavelength of interest increases to 5.6', which might work. This is something you will need to experiment with once the system is installed. Don't get me wrong, the bass WILL be louder no matter what, but there will be many peaks and valleys in the response which may or may not bother you.
 

JPinAZ

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Wow you don't know when to quit do you?

You're the only one complaining about leaving the discussion, only to come back, get the last word in, and then leave again. I am perfectly happy to try to have a rational discussion.

Since Scott has given his revised viewpoint which clears up his accuracy quite nicely, there's nothing much more I can add.

I have the feeling that you both might be the same person.

Lol, no need to be paranoid. You can rest easy knowing it's just as simple as there happens to be 2 separate individuals on the same forum that both have a some similar understanding of how these things work and want to share to help others - and possibly correct some simple disinformation.

Have a good one. I'm done with this convo!

Thanks! And same to you - until your next post anyway! ;)
 
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iamdub

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if you are interested I can look and tell you exactly what color the wires are that where spliced into. im no longer using the factory wiring so it is still connected in there lol.... I was very functional I just wanted more so I upgraded every thing


That would be great! Since my reply, I started searching for that thread but I don't even recall what forum it was on. There's a chance that I'll one day want to replace the door speakers and use an aftermarket amp in addition to the aftermarket sub, so I'll splice in some RCAs on all 4 channels while I'm in there. Just to be sure- what year is your truck from which you're getting these wire colors?
 
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MichaelSE

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That would be great! Since my reply, I started searching for that thread but I don't even recall what forum it was on. There's a chance that I'll one day want to replace the door speakers and use an aftermarket amp in addition to the aftermarket sub, so I'll splice in some RCAs on all 4 channels while I'm in there. Just to be sure- what year is your truck from which you're getting these wire colors?

Replying because I'm also interested in the info. Not necessarily for me, but so I can pass it on to the audio shop so they can install a sub.
 

jerryjoe28

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That would be great! Since my reply, I started searching for that thread but I don't even recall what forum it was on. There's a chance that I'll one day want to replace the door speakers and use an aftermarket amp in addition to the aftermarket sub, so I'll splice in some RCAs on all 4 channels while I'm in there. Just to be sure- what year is your truck from which you're getting these wire colors?

mine is a 04 but I would be willing to bet they used the same colors on all the nbs trucks and suvs with bose..... ill try to go take a pic of it in a few
 

jerryjoe28

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e68707bfe6c5f77faa267c291038be7b.jpg
I could not get a close up pic of the wires to turn out very good but here is a idea of where it is. the wires are hooked up
white with black stripe to - light green with black stripe
white to - blue
gray with black stripe to - light blue with black stripe
gray to - dark green

hope that helps

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

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