Brakes Are Not Bleeding?

[Symba_The_Lyon]

So i know i have written about this subject on another thread but i forgot which one, lol So i have replaced both rear drum cylinders (Witch i know they are good because they where working fine before i swapped out the master brake cylinder), master Brake cylinder and both brake calibers, I have bled them about 15 times by the two person methied and a brake bleeder suction pump, and gravity bleeding none of them are working, the two caliber have a lil bit of fluid are coming out of then the left rear cylinder has a good stream and the right rear cylinder has nothing come out, I am completely out of ideas, she has been sitting for so long her battery is dead x.x

 

[ezdaar]

did you bench bleed the MC? if not, take it off and do it.
This should fix your problem.

If not.

Once thats done. under rear end, find the T fitting that splits the lines to L and R. crack open the feed and bleed.
Then procede to bleed rears as norm.
Then do same for front.

Those T fittings can get so clogged up that almost zero fluid can pass.

I just went through this on a buddies truck.
We drained the entire system and flushed the lines with B-12 carb n choke cleaner. had no choice.
The fluid was as thick as grape jelly.

His brakes will toss ya through windshield now.

 

[SunlitComet]

is the fluid you are keeping track of with someone pressing on the pedal? and you could jsut have started your vehicle and run for a bit to top off a battery. if it lost enough voltage it will run a bit rough for a while now.

 

[Symba_The_Lyon]

That is the one part i for got to tell u guy i did bench bleed it and topping it off every time i try to bleed them, With the t fitting how do you go about cleaning it?

 

[retorq]

You don't need to pull it off and "bench bleed" it, in fact I've never bench bleed any master cylinder I've ever worked on. Put it in the car, bolt it up, use 2 short sections of tube with nuts in the outlet ports that loop up and back into the brake fluid reservoir. Cycle the pedal gently until the bubbles are gone, then swap the lines to the real brake lines, then bleed with your preferred method.

If the T is clogged replace it, they aren't that $$$ and can be had at the local auto parts store.

Are you sure the bleeder screw is free of dirt?? Take it completely off and check it with compressed air.

 

[ezdaar]

Retorq, that is bench bleeding but on the car. thats fine, it will work.

 

[retorq]

Hence the " "s around bench bleeding.

 

[Symba_The_Lyon]

I have bled it wile it was on that car*** But here is a update of what i have done today i have progress c: so my master cylinder connects to what i believe to be the abs box , then from there it converts that to 2 different line for the front and one that gos to the rear, I disconnected those 3 lines from that box and i got the air compressor and shot air in to all three of those lines and i also cleaned all bleeder screws, i officially have fluid coming out of all brakes now thank god, and tomorrow's project is to re bleed all the brakes to see if it stiffens up any ill keep you guys posted

 

[SunlitComet]

now that you have done that I HIGHLY RECOMMEND AND INSIST that you get to a qualified shop or dealer immediately and have the entire system bled out i/a/w the service manual which must include the ABS module. this is not something you can really do on your own unless you have expensive bi-directional diagnostic equipment. while you may have not gotten any air into the module itself you may have similar obstructions inside it.

 

[Symba_The_Lyon]

It officially with these damn brakes done Comes to find out When i changed the brake calibers i had them switch the wrong way( The left need to be on the right and the right need to be on the left ) i had the bleeder screw pointed down instead of up up, I finally have brakes