Burning Oil 5.3 suggestions?

[rjr]

My recollection is that leaky valve seals cause blue smoke on startup, and white smoke was water. Head gasket?

 

[Ponch]

With that mileage, it's time for a rebuild. I've seen it were heads were done and the main bearing would spin not long afterwards.

 

[Matahoe]

The cheapest way is to just to lap the valves. Especially if all you have is buildup on the faces and seats and the guides check out. Stick the valves in some clr for a few minutes and the deposits come right off with a wire wheel. You will also need lifter trays, new lifters, updated GM valve covers if called for. You might also need a few rocker arms and pushrods depending on their condition. Rebuilding heads isn't overly difficult but there are a few steps and it can take weeks depending on your machinists return time on the heads. It took me about 5 weekends working 5 hrs per weekend. It was damn hot in my garage so it was slow going. I also sanded the exhaust manifold surfaces and extracted 3 broken bolts with my welder.

 

[TysonTrost]

It wouldn't be a full rebuild, just removal and replacement of covers. Required specialty tools would be ft-lb and in-lb torque wrenches, breaker bar, gear puller and torque angle gauge or protractor and permanent marker (what I used). Regardless, if nothing in the front or rear is leaking or leaking badly, keep it simple and stick to "Stage 1" to at least resolve the pressing issue.

I listened a bunch of times with my ear to the speaker. I didn't hear anything but what sounded like steady engine or road or wind noise other than a loud click at the end.

i think it's some sort of exhaust noise it only rattles at 1500 with load you can hear it at 3 seconds but it is pretty quiet (it's very clear irl though). I dont have the time or funds right now to pull the engine but hopefully some day.

 

[TysonTrost]

With that mileage, it's time for a rebuild. I've seen it were heads were done and the main bearing would spin not long afterwards.

dont know if anything is in extreme need of rebuilding right now, i did have to replace my 4l60e though....

 

[TysonTrost]

The cheapest way is to just to lap the valves. Especially if all you have is buildup on the faces and seats and the guides check out. Stick the valves in some clr for a few minutes and the deposits come right off with a wire wheel. You will also need lifter trays, new lifters, updated GM valve covers if called for. You might also need a few rocker arms and pushrods depending on their condition. Rebuilding heads isn't overly difficult but there are a few steps and it can take weeks depending on your machinists return time on the heads. It took me about 5 weekends working 5 hrs per weekend. It was damn hot in my garage so it was slow going. I also sanded the exhaust manifold surfaces and extracted 3 broken bolts with my welder.

i would probably bring the heads to my basement 65 degrees, i was thinking i could do most of everything myself then have a machinist take the heads, i work at a machine shop but we don't run personal parts. would the heads even need to be machined or could i just replace all the components theoretically..

 

[Matahoe]

iwould the heads even need to be machined or could i just replace all the components theoretically..

You can replace most of the parts yourself minus the valve guides and valve seats. If the guides are worn (you can check that yourself) they will need to be pressed out, new ones pressed in and then trimmed. All done by a machine shop.

The head does not need to be resurfaced unless it is out of tolerances. There are various ways to check this. Most use a feeler gauge and a straight edge ruler to check. A machine shop usually starts by taking .001 off. Then .002 ...and so on. My heads both had .007 taken off. Gave me a tad more torque. Be aware that if you are using the factory style metal gaskets then the tolerances are pretty strict. If you have any gasket material stuck to the head or if you are having a difficult time taking measurements along the entire length of the head ...then I would take it to a shop. Just not worth anyone's time. At least that's what I got out of it.

In my experience prices for machining the heads is anywhere from $40 on up depending on how much time was spent and what equipment was used. My heads were $80 a piece. A bit pricey but they used a new cnc milling machine and had to take off a bit more than normal. You might want to perform a dye test on the heads after cleaning them. Magnaflux isn't used on aluminum heads as they won't magnetize.

I sprayed my heads down with Purple Power (don't use oven cleaner), then use my pressure washer set to a relatively safe pressure and went to town. Things got messy so do it away from kids, pets, etc...That combo seemed to work best for me...it took off everything...including the carbon in the runners. Make sure to check for true/flatness wherever a gasket will be. Check the exhaust and intake to manifold surfaces for any damage or gouges in the aluminum.

All in all its somewhat tedious, mostly dirty...yet altogether satisfying to do your own head work as you can pretty much do 80% of the work yourself. By the time you are done reassembling everything you will have the sense that you can put valves springs on with your eyes closed!

 

[Big Mama]

The sound may be the element in your cat came loose. Had several guys thought it was a rod or flywheels, which it may be but if you hit the cat with a rubber mallet you’ll know.