Confused about leveling

[yukon2004]

I am somewhat confused about leveling the front end of my Yukon. I have read that you can turn the keys, but is this all I need to do to level the front end with the ass end? Or do I need to go with a “leveling kit” such as one of these:

If I understand this correctly, is this just a waste of money, or do I need "stronger" keys and the shock extensions?

One note I would like to add is that I am planning on adding a ranch hand grill guard to the front later this year/early next year.

---------- Post added at 07:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:16 PM ----------

One other thing is this:

Is there anything I need to do to the rear end since I will be towing, but still keep it level?

 

[domin8]

You might want to post this in the correct section of the forum. NNBS and NBS trucks have very different suspensions.

Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using Tapatalk

 

[WildBill]

turning up the stock keys to the max will get you an inch or less. Aftermarket keys (ebay, ford, or any more expensive brand) are not stronger, the hex that the torsion spring fits into is just indexed differently. The lift keys give you 2-3 inches. this is what you need to match the rear. You are limited by driveshaft angle. the shock extension is good, but longer shocks are the best. They really are not that expensive for these trucks. The grill guard wont make a difference. if it drops the front a bit, just turn the keys up to compensate.

Get the right unloading tool for the keys or a big puller. I broke a big ass (like 10") C clamp in half before I even got the stocker out when I did mine...then I bought the unloading tool.

 

[yukon2004]

You might want to post this in the correct section of the forum. NNBS and NBS trucks have very different suspensions.

Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using Tapatalk

Sorry guys! I was flustered, and thought I had it in the right spot! I'll contact an admin to see about moving the thread, if it's possible.

turning up the stock keys to the max will get you an inch or less. Aftermarket keys (ebay, ford, or any more expensive brand) are not stronger, the hex that the torsion spring fits into is just indexed differently. The lift keys give you 2-3 inches. this is what you need to match the rear. You are limited by driveshaft angle. the shock extension is good, but longer shocks are the best. They really are not that expensive for these trucks. The grill guard wont make a difference. if it drops the front a bit, just turn the keys up to compensate.

Get the right unloading tool for the keys or a big puller. I broke a big ass (like 10") C clamp in half before I even got the stocker out when I did mine...then I bought the unloading tool.

I appreciate the info... that starts to clear things up a little bit now.

 

[07Burb]

Sorry guys! I was flustered, and thought I had it in the right spot! I'll contact an admin to see about moving the thread, if it's possible.

It's been moved

 

[yukon2004]

It's been moved

Thanks man!

---------- Post added at 08:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:14 AM ----------

turning up the stock keys to the max will get you an inch or less. Aftermarket keys (ebay, ford, or any more expensive brand) are not stronger, the hex that the torsion spring fits into is just indexed differently. The lift keys give you 2-3 inches. this is what you need to match the rear. You are limited by driveshaft angle. the shock extension is good, but longer shocks are the best. They really are not that expensive for these trucks. The grill guard wont make a difference. if it drops the front a bit, just turn the keys up to compensate.

Get the right unloading tool for the keys or a big puller. I broke a big ass (like 10") C clamp in half before I even got the stocker out when I did mine...then I bought the unloading tool.

So, bascially I would need some aftermarket keys and longer shocks, right? If I'm leveling the front, how much longer do I need the shocks to be? Two inches?

 

[94z28guy]

I leveled my 00 tahoe with factory keys. With 245/75/16s I went from 34ins ground to fender, to 36 1/4 inch. I have yet to drive it, or ive yet to put either shock relocators on it or longer shocks. I do have a pic. Ths is with 285's on 91 silverado wheels. Overlook the look of the truck it isnt complete. the pic is of it still sitting in the body shop from its recent paint job so its a lil dusty haha.

 

[WildBill]

The shocks are located about half way down the Lower A arm, so 2 inches of lift at the wheel is equivalent to about a 1 inch longer shock. If you look at shocks, some of the shock manufactures specify what shock is correct for what lift. This is best as the shock is the primary part that limits the down travel of the suspension.

If you dont do extenders or longer shocks, you wont get the full down trave possible and the ride will be just a bit worse. Ive been leveled for about a year, and just did the 5100s a month ago. It added about 1.5 inch down travel and improved the ride over speed bumps and large expansion joints.

Also, I'm not a big fan of extenders...I had them on for a few weeks. they added about 2 inches to the shock and let the suspension droop too much. It let the upper A arm hit the metal down bump stop. Because of where this contacts, it seems to me that the leverage on the upper A arm is pretty high. It looks like repeated large impacts on that upper bump stop could force it out of alignment. Plus lots of added stress on the CV joints.

You can get by without them, but you will be happier if you do.

 

[yukon2004]

The shocks are located about half way down the Lower A arm, so 2 inches of lift at the wheel is equivalent to about a 1 inch longer shock. If you look at shocks, some of the shock manufactures specify what shock is correct for what lift. This is best as the shock is the primary part that limits the down travel of the suspension.

If you dont do extenders or longer shocks, you wont get the full down trave possible and the ride will be just a bit worse. Ive been leveled for about a year, and just did the 5100s a month ago. It added about 1.5 inch down travel and improved the ride over speed bumps and large expansion joints.

Also, I'm not a big fan of extenders...I had them on for a few weeks. they added about 2 inches to the shock and let the suspension droop too much. It let the upper A arm hit the metal down bump stop. Because of where this contacts, it seems to me that the leverage on the upper A arm is pretty high. It looks like repeated large impacts on that upper bump stop could force it out of alignment. Plus lots of added stress on the CV joints.

You can get by without them, but you will be happier if you do.

Cool, thanks.

Another question is this:

I've read about people adding spacers to the rear... what is this for? Seems like I read somewhere that someone did this because they were going to be towing.

 

[WildBill]

spacers are really for adding height. I did 2" spacers. This sets the truck with a bit of rake since the keys only left enough to match the stock rear height, not the height with the spacers.

Now if you have the load leveling Nivomat or air shocks, they bear some of the rear weight, so the springs are lighter. If you swap to aftermarket shocks in the rear, the aftermarket shocks dont support weight. So you would need stiffer springs, or you could add a spacer. But if you just added a spacer, I think you would some of you load rating in the rear (the spacer doesnt stiffen the spring, it just adds height)