Consensus on Cold Oil Changes

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YukonRog

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I'm mostly being lazy I think but I thought I'd ask. I usually do hot oil changes but since the Yukon is up on the jacks in the garage waiting for parts I'm contemplating changing the oil and filter since the advisor came on. What's the thoughts on this? It is 90⁰ here.
 

iamdub

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I'm mostly being lazy I think but I thought I'd ask. I usually do hot oil changes but since the Yukon is up on the jacks in the garage waiting for parts I'm contemplating changing the oil and filter since the advisor came on. What's the thoughts on this? It is 90⁰ here.

Thoughts? My first thoughts are to NOT go by the "advisor"!

IMO, there's not enough of a difference to be so concerned with hot or cold. The point of a change is to get as much of the oil oil out and replace it with new oil. I let mine drain until it's no longer dripping because I have the time.

Ideally, to get the most oil out, you'd drain it while at it's hottest and let it drain until it's no longer dripping. The "worst" would be to start a cold engine, as if to drive it up on ramps, then immediately shut it off and drain it. This gets old oil pumped back up into the engine but not hot enough to really flow and drain down so easily. Yet, it's still a very small amount of old oil left. If you keep up with regular changes and use quality oil and have no sludge buildup, it's not gonna make any perceivable difference. It's definitely not enough difference to warrant burning yourself with hot oil.

If it's sitting and you wanna change the oil, go remove the plug and filter and leave it alone until your parts come in.
 
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YukonRog

YukonRog

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First, thanks to Admin for moving this to the proper forum. I'm learning. I really don't trust those stupid advisors to be truthful. Especially when the oil still looks good to me. Not to bring up something that doesn't really belong on a GM forum, but just as an example. My Ram 2500 Cummins tells me to change the oil every 4000 miles or so. It's based on driving style and averages. And since diesel oil looks bad right after you start it you can't tell by looking. I sent a sample to Blackstone once and they said I could probably go to 7500 miles. Easy to reset. Guess just what dinged now on it!
So, bottom line is as I read it is, let it drain for a few days, and, let it go a bit longer. Since it's relatively easy to change I may wait a bit longer. Thanks for everyone's input!
 

adventurenali92

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I’ve done both hot and cold. Hot just because of time constraint I was under last time around. But I like to do it cold number one because then I don’t burn my self on the cats or the exhaust. And two because it’s far easier to get the drain bolt and filter on when they’re cold versus when they’re hot. Lol. Either way as long as you’re not putting anything back together til it’s done dripping then you should be good.
 
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homesick

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Hot is better because contaminants in the engine are suspended better in the oil. As the engine sits and the oil cools, contaminants are allowed time to settle, so they won't be as thoroughly flushed.

The logic of this is evident to me, but I didn't make it up. The Navy taught me this long ago, when I was a radial engine aircraft mechanic.

If you ever want to take an oil sample, the same rules apply. You want the sample to accurately reflect the engine's condition. That's harder to accomplish if your metal bits are all safely settled in the pan; especially if there's sludge.

joe
 

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