CV shaft boot ripped.. replacement how to?

[JubjubW]

This is no FWD car which i've done, all I see is a bunch of bolts.. havent taken out the new shaft yet to take a look, but I don't want to be ripping into stuff without some knowledge first...

I see bolts on the front diff, after you do all the disassembly at the wheel, just unbolt it from the diff and off it comes? how much fluid will I lose from the diff?

This is for the passenger side BTW... the boot ripped and so much stuff got into the joint its not worth just a boot replacement, too much contamination... if diff fluid does leak out, what do you suggest replacing it with? type and brand that is... thanks for the help

 

[JcKinney]

It won't leak anything. That's solid.

 

[SunlitComet]

Front Drive Axle FRONT DRIVE AXLE

• Tools Required:
• J 24319-B Steering Linkage Puller
• J 36605 Front Knuckle Seal Installer
• J 36607 Upper Ball Joint Separator
• J 29193 Steering Linkage Installer (12 mm)

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

• Raise vehicle and support it with safety stands.

1. Wheel and tire assembly.

• Insert a drift or large screwdriver through the brake caliper into one of the brake rotor vanes to prevent drive axle (halfshaft) from turning.

1. Drive axle (halfshaft) hub nut (203) and washer (202).

• • Loosen, but do not remove the 6 bolts (200) securing inboard C/V joint drive flange to the output shaft companion flange.

1. Wrap shop towels around both the inner and outer ON joint boots to avoid damage to the boots during removal and installation.

1. Wheel speed sensor wire support bracket from upper control arm to allow extra travel of knuckle (all models). Also remove wire and brake line support brackets from knuckle on 8600# and heavier GVWR.
2. Prevailing torque nut from outer tie rod. Do not reuse the nut.

1. Separate the outer tie rod ball stud from the steering knuckle using J 24319-B. NOTICE: Do not disengage the joint by driving a wedge-type tool between the joint and the knuckle. This may cause seal damage.

• • Push linkage to opposite side of the vehicle and secure outer be rod up and out of the way. This will provide the needed clearance to remove the drive axle (halfshaft).

1. Lower shock mounting nut and bolt.

• • Collapse the shock absorber and secure if necessary.

1. Stabilizer shaft components as follows:

• • Remove stabilizer shaft bushing and bracket.
  • Remove stabilizer shaft bolt, spacer, and nut assembly at the lower control arm.

NOTICE: This is required on vehicles with 8050 lb. and below GVW rating to provide needed clearance for drive axle (halfshaft) removal.

1. Position floor jack or stand behind the steering knuckle. CAUTION: The floor jack or stand must remain under the control arm while servicing the drive axle (halfshaft) to maintain torsion bar and control arm position. Failure to do so could result in personal injury .
2. Cotter pin (138) from the upper control arm ball joint stud.

• • Loosen (do not remove at this time) the stud nut on the upper ball joint stud.
  • Loosen the stud from the knuckle using J 36607.

1. Nut (139).
2. Stud (137) from knuckle. Important: Cover the shock mounting bracket and the ball stud on the lower control arm with a shop towel to prevent possible drive axle (halfshaft) boot damage during removal and installation.
3. Knuckle assembly using hammer and brass drift or equivalent to separate outer C/V joint splined shank from knuckle hub.
4. Six bolts (200) from inboard joint flange.

• • Support inboard end of drive axle (halfshaft). Move knuckle and hub assembly outward to free splined shank from hub.

1. Drive axle (halfshaft) from vehicle. Important: Wipe the wheel bearing seal area on the knuckle clean.

Inspect

• Check the seal for cuts or tears.

1. Lubricate the seal lip.

• • If seal is cut or torn, inspect the wheel bearing for damage and replace the seal.

1. Replace the seal as follows:

• • Pry old seal from knuckle and discard.
  • Lubricate the new seal lip.
  • Use J 36605 to install the seal in the knuckle.

INSTALL OR CONNECT

NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.

• Prior to drive axle (halfshaft) installation, cover the shock mounting bracket, lower control arm ball stud, and all other sharp edges with shop towels so that drive axle (halfshaft) boot is not damaged during assembly.

Important: Do not lubricate the drive axle (halfshaft) splines and knuckle with grease.

1. Insert outer C/V joint splined shank into knuckle hub and secure inboard C/V joint flange to companion flange with bolts. Do not tighten.
2. Upper ball joint to the steering knuckle.
3. Stud nut.

• • Tighten stud nut to 100 Nm (75 ft. lbs.) .

1. Cotter pin.

• • Lubricate the upper ball joint until grease appears at the seal.

1. Stabilizer shaft bushing (65) and bracket (64) and bolts (63).

• • Tighten bolts (63) to 33 Nm (24 ft. lbs.) .

1. Stabilizer shaft link bolt assembly (62), spacer (56), and nut assembly (50).

• • Obtain torque by running nut assembly to the unthreaded portion of the bolt, then tighten to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.) .
  • Remove floor jack or stand from beneath lower control arm.

1. Shock absorber to the lower shock mounting bracket.
2. Shock mounting bolt washer and nut.

• • Tighten nut to 73 Nm (54 ft. lbs.) .

1. Outer tie rod to steering knuckle using J 29193. Tighten tool to 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) .
2. New outer tie rod prevailing torque nut.

• • Tighten nut to 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.) .

1. Brake pipe support bracket to the upper control arm.

• • Tighten nut to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.) .

Important: Make sure that the brake hose is not twisted or kinked, or damage to the hose could result.

1. Hub nut washer (202) and nut (203). Seat shank splines in hub.
2. Insert a drift through brake caliper to prevent drive axle (halfshaft) from turning.

• • Tighten inboard flange bolts to 78 Nm (58 ft. lbs.) .

1. Hub nut.

• • Tighten hub nut to 225 Nm (165 ft. lbs.) .

1. Remove drift and install wheels.
2. Remove safety stands, and lower the vehicle.

 

[JubjubW]

holy cow, wow, thanks for all that, ill definitely have to put some time aside to replace it.

 

[992door]

I would not take all that off to start with. I would unhook the sway bar and shock and if you are doing the left turn the wheel all the way to the left and for the right turn the wheel right.

 

[TTZ06]

Funny, I went to try and get some steering stabilizers from 4wheel parts and was told it did not exist for an IFS 4x4

Oh the CVs are pretty easy. That was a good post Sun

 

[JubjubW]

i just have never torn down a 4x4 IFS before. I have a FWD impala though, that was quite fun (not). speaking of which, on the FWD there was a small retaining clip that you literally had to take a pry bar and hammer and smack it out, does this have the same thing?

 

[SunlitComet]

after disconnecting steering you unbolt outer shaft by center nut on wheel hub. Stabilizer is out there check Monroe, rancho and other sites for AppliCable part numbering.

 

[JubjubW]

Well I have kept putting this off... thinking about getting it done today... do you have to undo both the upper and lower ball joints?

or just the upper?

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

i belive both not quite sure tho