Drastic Help Needed! Crank but no start

[EScissom]

I have been searching the forums as a guest since yesterday morning trying to diagnose a problem with my 1997 Chevy Tahoe. My wife and I let it sit a couple days and when we tried to leave yesterday morning it would not start. We tried jumping it off and nothing seemed to help. We used her mother's car to take the battery to Auto Zone and have it tested. Came back with a 94% charge and a clean bill of health. I told the guy the issues and he agreed to just swap it out with a new one off the shelf just in case. With that installed we thought it would answer all of our questions. We were wrong. We are getting spark from the coil into the distributor but it is not leaving the cap and going into the spark plug wires. Any ideas out there??

Here is a list of parts that have been replaced in the past 6 months:
1. Battery
2. Alternator
3. Starter
4. Starter Wire
5. Spark Plugs
6. Spark Plug Wires
7. Distributor
8. Distributor Cap
9. Rotor Button

The distributor was replaced today because we noticed the cap and rotor was a little corroded inside. Everything seemed to fall into place when we replaced it and I am almost 100% sure the timing is in order. What would cause the spark to leave the coil but not reach the wires?

Thanks
--Eric

 

[ch4d]

I have been searching the forums as a guest since yesterday morning trying to diagnose a problem with my 1997 Chevy Tahoe. My wife and I let it sit a couple days and when we tried to leave yesterday morning it would not start. We tried jumping it off and nothing seemed to help. We used her mother's car to take the battery to Auto Zone and have it tested. Came back with a 94% charge and a clean bill of health. I told the guy the issues and he agreed to just swap it out with a new one off the shelf just in case. With that installed we thought it would answer all of our questions. We were wrong. We are getting spark from the coil into the distributor but it is not leaving the cap and going into the spark plug wires. Any ideas out there??

Here is a list of parts that have been replaced in the past 6 months:
1. Battery
2. Alternator
3. Starter
4. Starter Wire
5. Spark Plugs
6. Spark Plug Wires
7. Distributor
8. Distributor Cap
9. Rotor Button

The distributor was replaced today because we noticed the cap and rotor was a little corroded inside. Everything seemed to fall into place when we replaced it and I am almost 100% sure the timing is in order. What would cause the spark to leave the coil but not reach the wires?

Thanks
--Eric

Does you fuel pump turn on i would try that also check the relay. Um spray starting fluid into the carb and see if it starts.

 

[Ceejkay]

6 months sounds about right for a cheap cap to fail.. spend the money and get a ac delco with the 5 year warranty.. did the new dizzy come with a cap?

 

[EScissom]

Thank you guys for the help ! - We ended up getting the truck to finally crank ... Now we have a check engine code of P1345 ... Which is the Cam Shaft Position Sensor and the Crank Shaft Position Sensor Coorelation ... Any ideas on how to correct this ? The truck starts on a dime . Idles fine . But lacking a ton of power . Thank you again !

 

[SunlitComet]

In simple terms you need a scanner that can read "CAM_RETARD" to fix the correlation problem. if not available let a shop do it so they can make sure you did not knock it so far off that the dizzy needs to be re-sync gear teeth wise. if you are sure you teethed it correctly let me know. There is a manual method that can zero out the correlation with good results enough to keep the light off.

 

[EScissom]

Got It ! Thank you !!!