First off, let me apologize, for not taking enough pics.
What I've done is replaced the DRL light sockets with turn/park sockets. Both sockets take 3157/4114 style bulbs. My concern is, and was with the Avalanche, the DRL's use the high power side of these bulbs. As you will see from the pics, the heat from running these bulbs on high so much 'cooks' the sockets. And, if you change to Full-time DRL's, they get really cooked, really fast, and very brittle. I have actually broken sockets, just trying to replace bulbs, they're so brittle.
This pic shows the discoloration of the 'cooked' socket.
On the side of the socket that inserts into the housing, there are tabs across from one another that you must push in to get the center section of the socket out. After you get that insert out of the socket, you can see where the pins go into the base, and the ends of the wires, with the connectors inside.
Here's where I should have taken more pics;
Now, you can remove the wires from the old socket and insert them into the new one. The difference is, the Lt.Blue or Dk.Blue, depending on which side of the truck you're working on, get inserted into the center connector hole, instead of the outside, where you removed it from. The Black wire goes back into the same connector hole. This wasn't really that tough. It's the next couple of steps that take the work.
The alignment tabs and lock are only slightly different. You will need to make the one slot longer, the 12 o'clock position in the pics. A Dremel or file will suffice. If using a Dremel you'll need to clean up the burs, and square off the corner. Don't forget to blow/vacuum out the inside of the housing. Also, the outside diameter of the socket is just a tiny bit larger than the inside diameter of the hole. Dremel with sanding drum makes quick work of it, but a piece of sand paper will probably work. Just may take a bit longer.
This is the first one I trimmed. Wasn't a very neat job, but the socket fits just fine.
From here it's just re-assembly. Problem now is, it's dark outside and the DRL's won't light. Not until I get the FTDRL Mod completed anyway.
Now the "And then..." part of the title. I now have a high power element that's not being used. I could splice into the turn signal element, but that would just be a lot more light flashing the turn signal. What I'd really like to do is, find a way to wig-wag the DRL with its corresponding trun signal. Like the corner light does. The only problem is, I'm justy not quite sure how to wire that one. Relays and diodes are not out of the question, except that all the write ups I've seen for that require the use of the already lit DRL. And, I don't want the high power element in the bulb on all the time. Any electrical gurus wanna give that one a shot?
I'll try to get more pics, if I can. Especially, the lit DRLs, as low power.
EJ
What I've done is replaced the DRL light sockets with turn/park sockets. Both sockets take 3157/4114 style bulbs. My concern is, and was with the Avalanche, the DRL's use the high power side of these bulbs. As you will see from the pics, the heat from running these bulbs on high so much 'cooks' the sockets. And, if you change to Full-time DRL's, they get really cooked, really fast, and very brittle. I have actually broken sockets, just trying to replace bulbs, they're so brittle.
This pic shows the discoloration of the 'cooked' socket.
On the side of the socket that inserts into the housing, there are tabs across from one another that you must push in to get the center section of the socket out. After you get that insert out of the socket, you can see where the pins go into the base, and the ends of the wires, with the connectors inside.
Here's where I should have taken more pics;
Now, you can remove the wires from the old socket and insert them into the new one. The difference is, the Lt.Blue or Dk.Blue, depending on which side of the truck you're working on, get inserted into the center connector hole, instead of the outside, where you removed it from. The Black wire goes back into the same connector hole. This wasn't really that tough. It's the next couple of steps that take the work.
The alignment tabs and lock are only slightly different. You will need to make the one slot longer, the 12 o'clock position in the pics. A Dremel or file will suffice. If using a Dremel you'll need to clean up the burs, and square off the corner. Don't forget to blow/vacuum out the inside of the housing. Also, the outside diameter of the socket is just a tiny bit larger than the inside diameter of the hole. Dremel with sanding drum makes quick work of it, but a piece of sand paper will probably work. Just may take a bit longer.
This is the first one I trimmed. Wasn't a very neat job, but the socket fits just fine.
From here it's just re-assembly. Problem now is, it's dark outside and the DRL's won't light. Not until I get the FTDRL Mod completed anyway.
Now the "And then..." part of the title. I now have a high power element that's not being used. I could splice into the turn signal element, but that would just be a lot more light flashing the turn signal. What I'd really like to do is, find a way to wig-wag the DRL with its corresponding trun signal. Like the corner light does. The only problem is, I'm justy not quite sure how to wire that one. Relays and diodes are not out of the question, except that all the write ups I've seen for that require the use of the already lit DRL. And, I don't want the high power element in the bulb on all the time. Any electrical gurus wanna give that one a shot?
I'll try to get more pics, if I can. Especially, the lit DRLs, as low power.
EJ
