Electrical issues

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Tatman48

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hey all, I have been searching the threads and trying a few things but to no avail nothing has worked. I will give a rundown of it. I have an 08 yukon xl denali 6.2. truck has been running fine other than a flickering headlight and gauge lights which I was told was my alternator. it tested good but was not working right I guess. anyway I was at store sunday and truck was running great as usual, but i started the truck and pulled out of parking space and thats where it all went south. stabiltrak, abs lights came on along with park assist off and gauges were going nuts. truck would not shift out of low 1st either and door locks were going nuts. I pulled into advance auto parts and proceeded to do a few things I have read about. I added a ground, not to battery from alternator but to wherre ground strap attatches beside brake booster. I took apart all grounds I could find and cleaned and greased them along with the main 175amp fuse and connections. also replaced my alternator and belt.

Nothing helped but sitting still and in park truck ran like a champ but gauges were still jumping everywhere. I noticed towards the end when I shut off truck and removed the key the truck stayed running for 5 min then shut off. I got truck towed home and was having it towed to mechanic the next day after 300 spent to no avail and when I went out the truck started and all was fine. but once it got to shop and they worked for 2 days they cant find where problem is and only have guesses. I am at a loss here.
 

swathdiver

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What codes did the mechanics come up with when they scanned it?

You should double check all your power and ground connections and might even go ahead and replace the positive and negative battery cables. They often corrode internally. But a good mechanic can see a lot of resistance on cables, if he knows to look for it.

Also, how old is the battery? A bad cell can wreak havoc on an electrical system in these trucks. What kind/brand of alternator did you replace the old one with?

I'm thinking cables or a bad battery.
 
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Tatman48

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What codes did the mechanics come up with when they scanned it?

You should double check all your power and ground connections and might even go ahead and replace the positive and negative battery cables. They often corrode internally. But a good mechanic can see a lot of resistance on cables, if he knows to look for it.

Also, how old is the battery? A bad cell can wreak havoc on an electrical system in these trucks. What kind/brand of alternator did you replace the old one with?

I'm thinking cables or a bad battery.
 
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Tatman48

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one of the problems is they couldnt get code scanner to connect either. Battery age is unknown as I havent had truck long. Alt is a brand new one from advance 160 amp. I replaced after all this started. I did not replace any cables yet. I was told when they tested the battery that it read with a lot of amps. battery is 770cca but showed on test to me over 1200. Im just worrried because I have read about many people having their truck into dealer more than a few times and even they cant figure it out. I will do cables and battery this weekend I guess and possibly the ignition switch. I noticed while sitting at the service lot, when key is off and just sitting there. The check engine light is dimly lit and stays on.
 

swathdiver

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one of the problems is they couldnt get code scanner to connect either. Battery age is unknown as I havent had truck long. Alt is a brand new one from advance 160 amp. I replaced after all this started. I did not replace any cables yet. I was told when they tested the battery that it read with a lot of amps. battery is 770cca but showed on test to me over 1200. Im just worrried because I have read about many people having their truck into dealer more than a few times and even they cant figure it out. I will do cables and battery this weekend I guess and possibly the ignition switch. I noticed while sitting at the service lot, when key is off and just sitting there. The check engine light is dimly lit and stays on.

Tom, we've seen more than a few of these trucks reject aftermarket alternators and only work with ACDelco or GM OE, kinda like the body rejecting an artificial organ! So keep an eye on that. Batteries have date codes on them and it sounds like the folks testing the battery didn't set up their machine right before testing!

With a Tech-2, the dealer's scan tool, there's not a whole lot left that we cannot figure out. If you like this truck and are even mildly competent with tools, getting your own Tech-2 is the most important tool you can have in your toolbox with regards to these things. Where do you live, Florida?
 

thompsoj22

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it is really frustrating to attempt troubleshooting on these vehicles without the TECH2 scanner. I know ill be faced with challenges in the future and i havent bought one yet, But reading/watching your situation has made the decision easier. Honestly the ignition switch is a solid guess based upon your description, But i would not buy any more parts in the $100+ range with the potential of being wrong? By the TECH2 and eliminate the expense of guessing. i have the exact same vehicle as you and it is only a matter of time and ill be faced with similar issues, im not buying another "anything" for this vehicle until i get a TECH2 and i recommend you do the same. There $300 yikes!!!!
 

gpracer1

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You removed the key and the truck kept running.......sure sounds like there is a problem with the ignition switch. I would run it and start wiggling the key and see if you can induce something.
 

Doubeleive

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TRY Banging on the fuse box, alternatively it has handles on each side that open to lift the box off of the connectors try lifting it up/down a few times and then back on firm.
 
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Tatman48

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Ok so as an update. I worked on truck this weekend. changed ignition switch and battery as well as made up new cables for alt and ground from battery. no luck. the guy at shop had a tech 2 but it could not establish a connection with vehicle. That is why they think the pcm or the bcm is bad. I do like this truck and still owe money on so I have to fix it. I am ordering a programmed pcm today and hopefully that fixes it. I also found out my wheel bearing is shot n passenger side. So not sure if that if effecting anything. I plan on buying a tech 2 scanner as I do work on my own vehicles and am pretty competent. But electrical issues are a nightmare. I heard a bad wheel sensor itself can wreak havoc on these. Does anyone know the relearn process for after you change pcm? mine is being programmed for my vin number so I have to do a relearn on it
 

swathdiver

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Ok so as an update. I worked on truck this weekend. changed ignition switch and battery as well as made up new cables for alt and ground from battery. no luck. the guy at shop had a tech 2 but it could not establish a connection with vehicle. That is why they think the pcm or the bcm is bad. I do like this truck and still owe money on so I have to fix it. I am ordering a programmed pcm today and hopefully that fixes it. I also found out my wheel bearing is shot n passenger side. So not sure if that if effecting anything. I plan on buying a tech 2 scanner as I do work on my own vehicles and am pretty competent. But electrical issues are a nightmare. I heard a bad wheel sensor itself can wreak havoc on these. Does anyone know the relearn process for after you change pcm? mine is being programmed for my vin number so I have to do a relearn on it

The relearn is done with the Tech-2, forget the specifics, tired and heading for bed. Get a subscription to AllDataDIY to access the shop manual.
 

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