Exhaust manifold...

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daniel tran

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another company Kral supposed to have the original design makes a kit too. i ordered one today and look forward to installing it next weekend. i refuse to drive my Denali till the ticking noise is fixed!!
 

iamdub

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...now the real question I have, why did GM put all these wonderful threaded holes on the block...

I don’t know for sure about this generation, but earlier models had interchangeable heads, so threaded holes you have on the rear would be used if the head was to be installed on the opposite side.

Dana nailed it. The LS heads are not specific to either bank. These clamps utilizing the unused threaded holes for this purpose is an ingeniously simple idea that I'd hardly demean as "a jerry rig".
 

LeeH

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So my burb has a broken stud on the drivers side exhaust manifold. It has some tapping when it starts but once it warms up, its fine. I was looking to get ahead on it, and asked carx to give me a quote pull the manifold and replace the stud. They were concerned about the manifold cracking, which supposedly is a common issue, and gave me a quote for about 600 bucks on the one side...and 1100 or so for both sides to replace both manifolds. How many folks go with the repair, or do you just live with it?

I was looking at rockauto, and each manifold with gaskets and replacement studs is about 60 bucks....SKP and ATP are the brands available....is one better than the other?


Does anyone have a how to video or link to share for installing the dorman exhaust manifold stud bolt on rear bolt of drivers side 03 Tahoe.. Please help!!! Thanks
 
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Derick

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Does anyone have a how to video or link to share for installing the dorman exhaust manifold stud bolt on rear bolt of drivers side 03 Tahoe.. Please help!!! Thanks
Which side?

There are two parts, one does the left front, and also does the right rear. The other part does the right front, and the left rear.

It's all super simple. If there's a hole in your exhaust clamp part, then you have to remove the cord to the sensor, and place it over it. You may have to unbolt or bend back the heat shield from the manifold. Two screws secure the clamp to the block. Then you use that third bolt to put pressure onto the manifold to seal the gap. I think its 18ft lbs. There are directions in the box from dorman.

The opposite part just has two bolts that go on the front or back of the block and then a third screw to put pressure on the manifold. All in all, should take about 15 minutes to install depending on what you have to do with your heat shield.
 

Rocket Man

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Does anyone have a how to video or link to share for installing the dorman exhaust manifold stud bolt on rear bolt of drivers side 03 Tahoe.. Please help!!! Thanks

Which side?

There are two parts, one does the left front, and also does the right rear. The other part does the right front, and the left rear.

It's all super simple. If there's a hole in your exhaust clamp part, then you have to remove the cord to the sensor, and place it over it. You may have to unbolt or bend back the heat shield from the manifold. Two screws secure the clamp to the block. Then you use that third bolt to put pressure onto the manifold to seal the gap. I think its 18ft lbs. There are directions in the box from dorman.

The opposite part just has two bolts that go on the front or back of the block and then a third screw to put pressure on the manifold. All in all, should take about 15 minutes to install depending on what you have to do with your heat shield.

The driver side rear is a ***** due to the firewall being so close. I’ve heard there’s a way from underneath, not sure if it’s through the wheel well or further in. I believe you’ll need a ratcheting wrench but the hardest part seems to be just getting the bolt into the rear of the block started. Someone who has done it will hopefully chime in. I gave up myself and put a clamp in the next location forward and it worked.
 

Hi-psi

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When I installed a Kral Auto bracket on my driver's rear, I unbolted the transmission mount, then jacked up the rear of the transmission as high as I could. That tilts the engine forward an inch or two, thus giving you a bit more room to work with between the back of the head and firewall. Worked great.
 

LeeH

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The driver side rear is a ***** due to the firewall being so close. I’ve heard there’s a way from underneath, not sure if it’s through the wheel well or further in. I believe you’ll need a ratcheting wrench but the hardest part seems to be just getting the bolt into the rear of the block started. Someone who has done it will hopefully chime in. I gave up myself and put a clamp in the next location forward and it worked.


I need to install this on the driver side rear which appears to be a terrible place to try and get to. Any ideas for an easier install. Thanks for any advice offered. Thanks for the replies..
 

LeeH

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Which side?

There are two parts, one does the left front, and also does the right rear. The other part does the right front, and the left rear.

It's all super simple. If there's a hole in your exhaust clamp part, then you have to remove the cord to the sensor, and place it over it. You may have to unbolt or bend back the heat shield from the manifold. Two screws secure the clamp to the block. Then you use that third bolt to put pressure onto the manifold to seal the gap. I think its 18ft lbs. There are directions in the box from dorman.

The opposite part just has two bolts that go on the front or back of the block and then a third screw to put pressure on the manifold. All in all, should take about 15 minutes to install depending on what you have to do with your heat shield.

Thanks for the reply, I need to install this on the drivers side rear manifold and I just cant figure out a way to get to it to install. Any advice? Thanks in advance and for your reply.
 

Lancem

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Little late to the game but I usually pull of the exhaust y, and in most cases get up in there with a 4" grinder and make a cut on the manifold through to the broken bolt using a cut off wheel, if there is any stud sticking out and there usually is, grab it with vice grips and unscrew it out. The cut will let the stud come loose from the manifold even if it is rusted. Screw in the new stud and go on your way, done it a bunch of times, I think a full set of studs and bolt is like $13.
 

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