Finally got the trans cooler in!!

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LsHart

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Not to happy with the installation parts provided. Had to tweak the brackets to recieve the cooler. Then had to hide the hoses. Because the kit doesn't come with 90 degree barbs. So at this point I'm not cutting my factory lines so I had to make do. But the end result is the same as for now. I went the cheap route on the trans cooler. Should have bought the full kit and paid up. Wouldn't have had the back to the future car with hoses everywhere thing going on! So new grille to cap off the job. Will be upgrading to the better trans cooler.
 

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Doubeleive

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Not to happy with the installation parts provided. Had to tweak the brackets to recieve the cooler. Then had to hide the hoses. Because the kit doesn't come with 90 degree barbs. So at this point I'm not cutting my factory lines so I had to make do. But the end result is the same as for now. I went the cheap route on the trans cooler. Should have bought the full kit and paid up. Wouldn't have had the back to the future car with hoses everywhere thing going on! So new grille to cap off the job. Will be upgrading to the better trans cooler.
it might help to know the tru-cool is not a "fit's gm kit" it's a universal kit that must be modified to ANY vehicle it get's installed in.
so with that being said, my advice is always too use 6an hoses and adapters, that way there is never a leak, those barbed connectors and worm clamps will eventually leak
the factory lines can be connected to a gm female quick connect, then the threaded side is adapted to 6an and the other 6an fitting adapted to the tru cool.
 
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LsHart

LsHart

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Yes I agree, went cheap and this is the result! Lol. Going to buy the good one .
 
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LsHart

LsHart

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But in the end for now, it's cooling the tranny down. For a 4L60E that's a plus! Looks cool to I think.
 

Doubeleive

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Yes I agree, went cheap and this is the result! Lol. Going to buy the good one .
The cooler is perfectly good I have had mine in for years and years, I would just use better connectors for best results. after 2-3 years those hose/clamps are going to seep at the least using good 6an lines they will never leak.
 
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LsHart

LsHart

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Ordered the 6an trans kit for the hoe and some 6an 90s.
 
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LsHart

LsHart

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I see another cooler on the ground. Was this a replacement with a larger unit? If so, why? Towing?
That's the stock one on the drive way. I built this truck to be driven. So.... ankle is mostly at a 20 degree angle! Lol. 4L60E is bad about overheating. So this'll help cooler her.
 
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LsHart

LsHart

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it might help to know the tru-cool is not a "fit's gm kit" it's a universal kit that must be modified to ANY vehicle it get's installed in.
so with that being said, my advice is always too use 6an hoses and adapters, that way there is never a leak, those barbed connectors and worm clamps will eventually leak
the factory lines can be connected to a gm female quick connect, then the threaded side is adapted to 6an and the other 6an fitting adapted to the tru cool.
This is a Derale trans cooler. Trying to not put a lot of money in this 4L60E. Til I figure what imma do with it.
 
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LsHart

LsHart

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Well, it's that or a built 4L60E. With all the updated crap. I'm weighing my options. Cause I haven't heard alot about folks putting a built 4L60E. Just doing a 4l80E swap. So, I'm waiting.
 
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LsHart

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Everyone is jumping to 4L80E swaps. Has anyone here heard of or seen a built 4L60E in action?
 

Tonyrodz

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Well, it's that or a built 4L60E. With all the updated crap. I'm weighing my options. Cause I haven't heard alot about folks putting a built 4L60E. Just doing a 4l80E swap. So, I'm waiting.
I don't think 4l80s are all that great. I had an Express van that had it and I was having problems with it. I had to have it swapped, and what came out was a GM remanufactured trans. That one only lasted maybe 10k. I bought the van with only 110k, so this was actually the 2nd trans--not counting the trans I had to have installed.
I have a beefed up 4l60 in my 03. It puts 350 to the wheels. Has a 3k convertor in it. I had a Derale cooler installed inline with the stock cooler. Trans had a few updated parts installed--been so long I don't remember exactly what--it's been great with 0 issues.
It's totally possible to build them to handle power and survive, you just need to find a competent trans guy who stands behind their work.
 

6speedblazer

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The 4L60 and all its variants are not a bad trans. The biggest plague to them is poor builders. You will see a LOT of 3-4 clutch pack failures and these fly by night builders will throw new clutches in and not fix the root of the issue which is typically a hydraulic leak of some sort. Then the trans fails in short order and under warranty the builder will do the exact same repair. Rinse and repeat.

With that being said, the trans does have some weak spots that can be reinforced. full time over run mod to help protect the sprag is a great example. Later model or aftermarket sunshells ect.

For what it's worth I worked for my dad's shop from 1998-2011. We had a contract to repair fleet vehicles, and we had roughly 3000 trucks in this fleet. Of this population size we had a pretty even mix of 1500 series express vans and 3500 Silverado's gas engines. and a handful of 3500HD dually gas engines.

I replaced 4l60e trans almost daily, 4l80e's maybe once a month if that. We had a builder on staff and all he did was build transmissions. The caveat to that statement is the company we contracted with tired to buy all those 1500 series vans to do the job of a 3500 series truck. So, while I did a trans almost daily, I also rebuilt rear axles almost daily due to them being over loaded. Constantly replaced rear leaf springs for the same reason.

I had a 4l60e built by FLT and installed that in my 5.3 swapped zr2 s10. That truck has 150k miles on it since the swap and zero issues. I pulled boats and SXS's all over the place for 10 years before I sold it. On the other hand, I had a 4L80e built for my TBSS, but that's a 500hp LS2, AWD setup that weighs 5000 pounds.
 

strutaeng

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The 4L80e is very strong in stock form due to the center support being anchored down in the rear planetary. You really don't have to upgrade internal hardparts for anything, unless you are boosting it. Even then, there's plenty of guys beating on their junkyard 4L80e with twin turbos and having fun. And the hydraulics are very simple and reliable. Only a few valves really need addressing when rebuilding them. Otherwise it's just gaskets, seals and bushings. They really didn't change much on the design either, so it makes the rebuilding easier. I've rebuilt a few myself and I would say they are pretty straightforward. The 4L80e i swapped in my 99 Silverado was a junkyard unit and all I did was put fresh fluid in it. Unknown mileage, lol. I beat on it with the "little" 5.3.

The forward clutch-to-clutch shifting design is the way to go in my opinion. No forward band that wears out like the 4L60e. The 2 bands on the 4L80e are only used for reverse and and engine brake. Some folks don't even get those changed because they are still servicable on teardowns and rebuilds.

OTOH, the 4L60e has something 30 common failure areas, from hard parts to hydraulics. Well, that's what I've read, I've never been inside one. The thing is, by the time you upgrade all the internals with aftermarket and expensive Sonnax parts, you've got yourself a huge bill, and sometimes even those units fail. It probably doesn't help that they were so many changes during production years, but those changes were to improve on failure-prone areas.

They way I've see it is: I'm broke and can't afford the 4L60e...or would rather spend money on something else. Just my opinion though.
 

6speedblazer

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The 4L80e is very strong in stock form due to the center support being anchored down in the rear planetary. You really don't have to upgrade internal hardparts for anything, unless you are boosting it. Even then, there's plenty of guys beating on their junkyard 4L80e with twin turbos and having fun. And the hydraulics are very simple and reliable. Only a few valves really need addressing when rebuilding them. Otherwise it's just gaskets, seals and bushings. They really didn't change much on the design either, so it makes the rebuilding easier. I've rebuilt a few myself and I would say they are pretty straightforward. The 4L80e i swapped in my 99 Silverado was a junkyard unit and all I did was put fresh fluid in it. Unknown mileage, lol. I beat on it with the "little" 5.3.

The forward clutch-to-clutch shifting design is the way to go in my opinion. No forward band that wears out like the 4L60e. The 2 bands on the 4L80e are only used for reverse and and engine brake. Some folks don't even get those changed because they are still servicable on teardowns and rebuilds.

OTOH, the 4L60e has something 30 common failure areas, from hard parts to hydraulics. Well, that's what I've read, I've never been inside one. The thing is, by the time you upgrade all the internals with aftermarket and expensive Sonnax parts, you've got yourself a huge bill, and sometimes even those units fail. It probably doesn't help that they were so many changes during production years, but those changes were to improve on failure-prone areas.

They way I've see it is: I'm broke and can't afford the 4L60e...or would rather spend money on something else. Just my opinion though.
one 4l80e swap is still cheaper than multiple 4l60e swaps.
 
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LsHart

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Just not quite sure witch way to go.
 

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