I hope it has the 9.5, I can’t imagine I’d ever hurt a 9.5 with 250hp and I already have parts for them.
My goal is to have a mostly stock tow rig, I figure the 5.7 with small tires and the 4.10s should pull a standard car hauler trailer with another car or truck on it fine. Florida is flat and I don’t plan to take it on cross country trips loaded. Probably level the stance with either a lower level or tiny tiny crank to the T bars, 32”s, replace all the front end with the beefiest stuff I can find, and maybe a few minor things like the PCM swap to tune it, big radiator and trans cooler, and little stuff like that. No engine or trans swaps, I’m not a fan of autos but it’s a 4l80 so it’s about as good as it gets for strength.
Yeah, you should be good. I just saw your differential photo: that's definitely a 9.5". 10.5" differential cover is a little different and more "segmented" perimeter, for lack of the better word.
Along the things that separated the SBC vs BBC/TD in the C/K 2500s are the brakes: I see that you have vacuum assist brakes, which is what the SBC always got from my recollection in the 2500s. You can upgrade to the hydro boost setup that the 2500 BBC/TD got. All C/K3500s got hydro boost, regardless of engine, in case you want to go look at the wrecking yard for parts.
My K3500 has hydroboost, and I'd say they are adequate, but I've never driven a similar truck with vacuum brakes (except my 1999 Silverado GMT800).
Rotor swaps and rear drums are two things I don't like on these trucks. Drum brakes scare me (LOL), and they a bit "grabby" on the first stop, especially when wet. And the front rotors on the 8 lug requires you to remove the knuckle to remove them; they don't simply slide off like on the later trucks 8 lug. I was kinda blown away how much work is to replace rotors when I first watched the video on YT...so I've never messed with either on my OBS, LOL.
