Front end issues.

[GreyFox]

Really i just need to figure out which lower ball joint I need.
There's two choices between :
Stamped Type Control Arm; w/45.79mm Press Fit Type
and
Forged Type Control Arm; w/47.89mm Press Fit Type


I tried measuring it but its had to get an accurate measurement. Is there a way to tell if the control arm is welded or forged easily?


4x4 99 tahoe.

 

[ravingmadman]

I had this same trouble (i wound up with bad bearings, not control arms)- when I tried to find distinguishing marks, or something in the VIN, I had no luck. If you find out, for future reference please post!!

 

[GreyFox]

I had this same trouble (i wound up with bad bearings, not control arms)- when I tried to find distinguishing marks, or something in the VIN, I had no luck. If you find out, for future reference please post!!

Apparently having your vin doesn't help at all when calling the dealer.
In short if it looks like 2 pieces of metal the have been sandwiched together then its stamped/ wielded(wish i had taken a pic ) . I just did the one side today and it was a pain. the hardest part was the lower ball joint b/c they loctite it at the factory.
BUt the worse part is that the hub's i had gotten were the wrong ones. THAT AND THE HAYES MANUEL I PURCHASED WAS PRETTY MUCH WORTHLESS!!!!
So in short I curse GM for having and infinite amount of variations for this one model.

 

[ravingmadman]

Oh, bro I could have helped you with the hub. Yeah, I'm pretty disgusted with Haynes for our rigs (speaking strictly for '99 4wd hoes). I have found it good for parts identification, and that's about it. That's why I keep posting how-to's.

 

[GreyFox]

Oh, bro I could have helped you with the hub. Yeah, I'm pretty disgusted with Haynes for our rigs (speaking strictly for '99 4wd hoes). I have found it good for parts identification, and that's about it. That's why I keep posting how-to's.

Yea. oh well... I got the correct ones now. If everything works out how i want it to I''ll be spending part of tomorrow doing the other side.
On the downside got into a small accident anf now have to take it to the body shop on monday.
I see it as getting another new grill and bumper.
Downside is that I can't mount my tires or get the alignment till i get it back.
so all that is left is the ball joints and tie rods on the driver-side. and eventually one day do the shocks, pittman arm, idler arm and sway-bar bushings.

---------- Post added at 01:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:04 PM ----------

Also "Mushy" brake pedal (as my father puts it). And squeaky sound from the rear.
Any thoughts?

 

[ravingmadman]

Also "Mushy" brake pedal (as my father puts it). And squeaky sound from the rear.
Any thoughts?

Yeah, easy- check your fluid at the tank under the hood to start. Pull all the lugs off both sides of the rear, use a rubber mallet to get the drums free, and pull the drums off. Inspect the drums for waves and ridges, or for excessive wear (the shoes will stick into the drums and make it difficult to pull them off if they're worn too far). Also, if it looks like there's grease inside the drum, that's a leaky wheel cylinder. They're about $5 each, and super easy to replace, I strongly recommend you do it if there's any sign of leakage. If you aren't racing your rig around, or towing more than 5k lbs, the cheap shoes from O'Reilly's are great, I just put them in mine. If everything looks fine, you've got a bubble in your lines; bleeding the brakes is a 2-person job, but super easy. you'll need a crescent wrench, and someone to pump the brakes.

 

[GreyFox]

Yeah, easy- check your fluid at the tank under the hood to start. Pull all the lugs off both sides of the rear, use a rubber mallet to get the drums free, and pull the drums off. Inspect the drums for waves and ridges, or for excessive wear (the shoes will stick into the drums and make it difficult to pull them off if they're worn too far). Also, if it looks like there's grease inside the drum, that's a leaky wheel cylinder. They're about $5 each, and super easy to replace, I strongly recommend you do it if there's any sign of leakage. If you aren't racing your rig around, or towing more than 5k lbs, the cheap shoes from O'Reilly's are great, I just put them in mine. If everything looks fine, you've got a bubble in your lines; bleeding the brakes is a 2-person job, but super easy. you'll need a crescent wrench, and someone to pump the brakes.

Well pads in the front look good just had them off to finish the balljoints and put the correct wheel hubs on.
the calipers could use replacement they kinda slide.
I have good hunch that the drums are the ones that came from the factory (maybe)
but i was planning to do a very good brake job soon. so I just have to deal with it.
My buddy has a power bleeder so it should make it easier.Unless there is a special way your supposed to bleed them.
Oh will post a pic of the control arm eventually.

 

[ravingmadman]

what size was it?

 

[GreyFox]

what size was it?

stamped ones
45.79mm.
or did you mean brakes?

 

[ravingmadman]

Nope. Ball joints. Perfect. Thanks.