Fuel tank lock ring install issues
- Thread starter JamesLond
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The outer lip should be oriented in the lowest position, how it sounds like you have it. Is the fuel pump correctly indexed into the fuel tank opening? It should go only one way, with the notch and the tab together (see second pic, the green rectangle; that should be where the tab on the pump aligns with the tank mount). Be sure to temporarily bend aside the white locking latch that keeps the ring from rotating. In the pic below (not your pump and tank, but similar) the hose connections should be pointing toward the front of the tank. Got a pic of where yours is?
And are you using a new gasket, or reusing the old? I think we had to use some serious torque to get a new gasket to seat. We used two channel lock pliers on opposing sides of the ring, carefully squeezing between a hook on the outer ring and the hooks that stick up from the tank (see second pic for one side of our plier placement). That way the pressure was even and we didn't use a hammer at all. Maybe lightly lube the top of the pump where the lock ring sits on it?
And are you using a new gasket, or reusing the old? I think we had to use some serious torque to get a new gasket to seat. We used two channel lock pliers on opposing sides of the ring, carefully squeezing between a hook on the outer ring and the hooks that stick up from the tank (see second pic for one side of our plier placement). That way the pressure was even and we didn't use a hammer at all. Maybe lightly lube the top of the pump where the lock ring sits on it?
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I'm using everything new. Messed with it a hour more and just got sick of it.
I ordered one of those lock ring tools, so we'll see how that goes.
Never knew they made one of those tools, and never needed one. In what part of the country are you, if you don't mind me asking?
Are you installing the gasket into the fuel tank first, or to the fuel pump first?
Good luck with it; be sure to come back on with questions or showing your solution.
Are you installing the gasket into the fuel tank first, or to the fuel pump first?
Good luck with it; be sure to come back on with questions or showing your solution.
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
If this is actually dangerous or potentially life-threatening, don't do what I did at home!
But this is what I did...
When I did my 05 Jeep TJ last year, which was my first fuel pump replacement...
I put a deposit on a universal fuel pump lock ring tool kit from NAPA. It came with a special brass drift pin, so you would spark up a fire and a bunch of other bits to supposedly remove the lock ring. For the life of me, I couldn't get the tool to match up with the ring to be able to do anything with it. Just would work on what I had. I had to get the old pump out and the new one in by the end of that day, so I could get to work the next day.
I ended up using a big, flat-blade screwdriver and a 3 lb. mallet. I put the screwdriver against one of the notches in the lock ring slots and tapping with the mallet in the direction needed to unlock it.
I was able to get the ring to spin off, so I used the same method to tap the ring back on. The ring would spin until the bumps locked into the retainer tab. The O-ring compressed as the ring spun into position and the bumps locked in where they were supposed to.
That may have been wrong or possibly dangerous, but it worked and I am still here to talk about it.
But this is what I did...
When I did my 05 Jeep TJ last year, which was my first fuel pump replacement...
I put a deposit on a universal fuel pump lock ring tool kit from NAPA. It came with a special brass drift pin, so you would spark up a fire and a bunch of other bits to supposedly remove the lock ring. For the life of me, I couldn't get the tool to match up with the ring to be able to do anything with it. Just would work on what I had. I had to get the old pump out and the new one in by the end of that day, so I could get to work the next day.
I ended up using a big, flat-blade screwdriver and a 3 lb. mallet. I put the screwdriver against one of the notches in the lock ring slots and tapping with the mallet in the direction needed to unlock it.
I was able to get the ring to spin off, so I used the same method to tap the ring back on. The ring would spin until the bumps locked into the retainer tab. The O-ring compressed as the ring spun into position and the bumps locked in where they were supposed to.
That may have been wrong or possibly dangerous, but it worked and I am still here to talk about it.
It helps to put pressure on opposing sides of the lock ring, to equalize the effort to get it back on. I had my son's help, and we both used channel lock pliers at the same time to tighten the ring and compress the gasket. It does take effort. It can be done with one person with channel locks, but you'd have to keep moving from hook to hook to keep the pressure even.
OK, it's on!
I decided to just save my breath and buy the OEM tool for the install. It's a kent-moore J-44402. The 4 tangs on the part (4th not visible in pic) fit nicely into the 4 square slots on the lock ring.
Totally worth it as it made a job that was giving me headaches into a simple 30 second install.
I decided to just save my breath and buy the OEM tool for the install. It's a kent-moore J-44402. The 4 tangs on the part (4th not visible in pic) fit nicely into the 4 square slots on the lock ring.
Totally worth it as it made a job that was giving me headaches into a simple 30 second install.
Looks great! Seems to have worked like a charm. Is that a 3/8" or 1/2" drive hole?
It's a 1/2"
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