Getting ready to order 26's (Cold Feet) Help

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Fearz

Fearz

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Let me clarify alittle I don't haul people at all. Max I think there has been 3 people in my car. Mostly it's me and rarely 1 other person. Also my sub box is in the back so let's round that up to add up to a person sitting in the back at all times. I sometimes carry 50-60lbs of stuff in the backseat for my job, but that's about it.

on the 24s you still will need to trim the rear fenderliners a little nothing major. I have a 305 35 24 on a 2.75/3.5 drop and works out great.



One thing in rear which is a cheap thing you can add helper bags to the springs I sell they are like 80 dollars and you can tow and haul around perfectly fine.

For example my buddy has a 2010 suburban on 305 35 24 and he has a trailblazer SS (big pig) that he tows to the track. He has my 2/4 kit on it (rear cut off bumpstops with djm hardware kit) i installed along with the airlift helper bags. WIth him and 4 buddies with the trailblazer ss in back and helper bags at 35 psi he has no problem towing it.

I like the idea of 24's but don't want to go 24's then have the want to go bigger. I know I woudn't be happy till I go 26. I'm just stubborn like that.
Also I wont be towing or hauling a bunch of people.

BlackedoutLT3 had a 2/3 on 26" Slides and it looked good.
It does look good and is part of my inspiration to get my Tahoe game on the level it should be.

I have a 3/5 on 26s and I am doing fine.
You will rub with your planned setup but it is nothing that some trimming of fender liners cannot handle. You will not need to do any metal cutting.
That's what I want to hear. I can live with trimming. I just don't want to have to redo my whole setup. For example" I lowered it now I need a new swaybar to center the axel and now I need to grind my trailing arms because now mine rub my tire." That would be to much just to go down 3 inches in the back." (sorry if it seems like I don't know what I'm talking about. I'm trying to peice together what I read from other threads)
I just saw your reply in the other thread and was like "oh s*** I will have to grind down my trailing arm so it doesn't bust tires WTF" I then got scared. Lol

in the rear fenderwells it touches the plastic in a few places takes 2 minutes to do a clean cut and your safe. Especially if your ******* it like I am
I already have the X-acto knife and blades set up.

do it.
this is mine with a 2/3.

photo52.jpg

My jaw just hit the floor. ^ that is win right there. What kit did you use to lower? Any problem after you lowered with bottoming out with no one else in the car? Any problem at all after lowering?
 
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I let that slip my my mind. You may slightly rub the part of the real lower control arm that bulges outwards. If you do, you will have to trim it with a grinder. I rubbed on mine and I trimmed it down a bit, so did user Dupcanda. I don't think he logs on anymore, but yeah you may rub on that area. It depends on offset really.
 
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I let that slip my my mind. You may slightly rub the part of the real lower control arm that bulges outwards. If you do, you will have to trim it with a grinder. I rubbed on mine and I trimmed it down a bit, so did user Dupcanda. I don't think he logs on anymore, but yeah you may rub on that area. It depends on offset really.

I know you did it awhile ago, but do you have pics? Also is it an easy 5-10 min job that can be done real quick while getting the drop done?
My wheels will be 28 offset; hopefully the 295's will save me some room.
I figure I will have to put the wheel on to see where it hits and then grind accordingly. Its starting to look promising to go to a shop and get it done right. :)
 
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I do not have pics, but you are better off taking it to a shop if you have not done a similar install before. It is not a 5 minute thing at all. I think it took me 3 hours to do just the spindle install.
 

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28 on 10s on 295s will be ok buttttttttt Due to gm tolerances sometimes the lower a arm area metal stick out more than others. Pretty much sometimes the lip sticks out 1/2 inch more than other trucks so you will have to grind.

---------- Post added at 10:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------

are you going to invest in brakes also or keep stock ones on?
 
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Fearz

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I do not have pics, but you are better off taking it to a shop if you have not done a similar install before. It is not a 5 minute thing at all. I think it took me 3 hours to do just the spindle install.
Yeah I probably will take it to a shop as I'm on call so if I start working on it and get a call I will have to drop everything in the driveway and go. When you changed the Struts how long did it take?

28 on 10s on 295s will be ok buttttttttt Due to gm tolerances sometimes the lower a arm area metal stick out more than others. Pretty much sometimes the lip sticks out 1/2 inch more than other trucks so you will have to grind.

---------- Post added at 10:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------

are you going to invest in brakes also or keep stock ones on?

As of right now I will have the stock brakes that I will be replacing the pads on when I put the new wheels on so they will start fresh. I am on the look out for another setup, but that depends on price.
 
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You are going to need to upgrade the brakes because the added weight from the rims will reduce the stopping distance you are use to. Just a fyi
 
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You are going to need to upgrade the brakes because the added weight from the rims will reduce the stopping distance you are use to. Just a fyi

Yep, I will have to get used to it. I see there are a few people still running stock brakes on here. I also think its about driving style also, and I will drive like a Grandma because these Texas roads are not all that. 98.7% of the time I will be on the highway in traffic with some space between me and the next car.
 
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