IRQVET
2 Door Owners Club
Any updates and pictures?
Got me a 2" Lift Kit
- Thread starter ChiTahoe
- Start date
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the big blue bus
Full Access Member
i must be one of the unlucky ones and couldnt level with crank lol. got some truck bars to put in just need the time. only cost me 20 bucks should help level the front. the bars are also thicker than the tahoe ones so they should sag as much as mine i assume
skyhighsami
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2010
- Posts
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I went today and got some 32" BFG MT KM off a friend's truck that were less than 1,000 miles old. Got them balanced, torsion bars cranked to clear 32s, aligned, and bought and installed 3" blocks for less than $200. Fits fine, clears great and since it's my wife's truck she loves it
IRQVET
2 Door Owners Club
A picture speaks a thousand words . . . .
You folks are killing me, lol.
You folks are killing me, lol.
the big blue bus
Full Access Member
my truck bars got me more than 2inchs crank now. its higher than back with 2inch block... and only 20 bucks lol
Still haven't installed it....haven't had time in the shop to do it. We're busy installing plows, we also picked up a NBS 99 2500 Silverado, more than enough projects now. I still have 1 body bolt to fix on my hoe.. =( My dad is debating is he wants to sell his 98 Z71 Sierra 1500. I'll keep you all updated. We tried installing the kit same kit on the 98 Z71 but the T-bars didn't want to come out to replace the keys.....just not enough time in a day.
the big blue bus
Full Access Member
got to use lots of force and heat them up. had to use air hammer on front of bars and shake them loose. then would hit them back forward from the back till they broke free. not fun at all lol. i see why places would charge alot to do this
cranking the keys up will get 2" max
A good read:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32545
A good read:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32545
BigDaddy13440
Full Access Member
As Bowtie said, just turn up the stock torsion keys! On stock wheels, 285/75/16's will fit easily, some have said that 305/70/16's will also fit. I have 16x8 with 25mm offset, they stick out further than the stock wheels - I had to trim the lower valance and the rear of the front fender to clear my 285's. I had my torsions cranked all the way up, but it was impossible to get my alignment within factory specs, so I had to de-crank it a few turns - brought it down from 2.5" over stock to about 1.5".
As others have said, you can just use a block with longer u-bolts to lift the rear, but I slipped some extra leaves in the rear pack to gain about 2.5". A block will give you the same ride as stock, while the added leaves stiffen the rear - it rides rougher, but it does give you more carrying capacity.
---------- Post added at 05:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:09 PM ----------
Under the truck, about even with the rear of the front doors, you'll see a crossmember tying the left frame rail to the right. On each side of the truck, you'll see a long bar (the torsion bar) running from the front a-arm to the crossmember. Inside the crossmember, you'll see two bolts - these are your torsion bar adjusting bolts. I believe they are 18mm, and they should have anywhere from 4-8 threads showing if your truck hasn't been screwed with previously.
With your front end jacked up (NOT by any suspension points! you can jack from under the front differential), you can turn the 18mm bolts in a couple turns. Just make sure you turn both bolts in the same amount. Lower the truck, and drive a bit to settle the suspension in. Repeat as necessary, until you get the lift you want. Yes, you can max them out, but your ride will be rough, and may well be impossible to get it aligned correctly (see my previous post).
Then go get it aligned. With the unequal length a-arms, turning the torsions up plays havoc with your toe-in and toe-out, and your caster and camber. Don't expect your tires to last 40-50,000 miles without a damn good alignment. Also, the higher you go, the faster your suspension parts will wear.
As others have said, you can just use a block with longer u-bolts to lift the rear, but I slipped some extra leaves in the rear pack to gain about 2.5". A block will give you the same ride as stock, while the added leaves stiffen the rear - it rides rougher, but it does give you more carrying capacity.
---------- Post added at 05:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:09 PM ----------
Under the truck, about even with the rear of the front doors, you'll see a crossmember tying the left frame rail to the right. On each side of the truck, you'll see a long bar (the torsion bar) running from the front a-arm to the crossmember. Inside the crossmember, you'll see two bolts - these are your torsion bar adjusting bolts. I believe they are 18mm, and they should have anywhere from 4-8 threads showing if your truck hasn't been screwed with previously.
With your front end jacked up (NOT by any suspension points! you can jack from under the front differential), you can turn the 18mm bolts in a couple turns. Just make sure you turn both bolts in the same amount. Lower the truck, and drive a bit to settle the suspension in. Repeat as necessary, until you get the lift you want. Yes, you can max them out, but your ride will be rough, and may well be impossible to get it aligned correctly (see my previous post).
Then go get it aligned. With the unequal length a-arms, turning the torsions up plays havoc with your toe-in and toe-out, and your caster and camber. Don't expect your tires to last 40-50,000 miles without a damn good alignment. Also, the higher you go, the faster your suspension parts will wear.
