Help With Part Number Please

[OffRoadN]

Hello, I need the rubber, or maybe silicone, piece that is fitted to the bottom of the purge valve in my 2004 Tahoe 5.3L (gasoline) SUV. The valve itself is part number 12581282, but the gasket (or whatever it's called) is separate. These purge valves were used in many model makes and years with the 5.3L (and other) motors. Anyone able to get this part number? Or does anyone know of exploded parts diagrams that are available on the web? Much thanks!!


The part can clearly be seen in the following youtube video:

Can see the part starting at 2:57 and can see it being removed and swapped starting at 3:11.


Edit: Also in this video, starting at 49 seconds (even better view of it being removed and swapped):

 

[B-train]

I looked on the GM parts diagram I found and it doesn't show anything listed for that piece. You might have to go to the stealership and see if they have better diagrams that have more details.

 

[Fless]

I looked on the GM parts diagram I found and it doesn't show anything listed for that piece. You might have to go to the stealership and see if they have better diagrams that have more details.

Or hit the junkyard. I know that the AC Delco one I bought didn't come with one, so I'm not sure they are available. I reused my old one.

 

[rockola1971]

That part is an isolator. All it does is isolate the valve from engine vibration and heat.

 

[Doubeleive]

use a old bicycle inner tube and razor blade you a piece out or literally any piece of rubber laying around

 

[OffRoadN]

Thanks to everyone. Was worried about needing to get a part number from the factory.

Junkyard was the first thing that came to my mind as well. There is one about 10 miles from me, and it's used on so many different vehicles that it shouldn't be hard to find.

As a last resort, I can jimmy up my own, but would prefer the factory part if possible.


Anyone on here work at a dealership, or have access to the comprehensive parts lookup?

 

[OR VietVet]

Thanks to everyone. Was worried about needing to get a part number from the factory.

Junkyard was the first thing that came to my mind as well. There is one about 10 miles from me, and it's used on so many different vehicles that it shouldn't be hard to find.

As a last resort, I can jimmy up my own, but would prefer the factory part if possible.


Anyone on here work at a dealership, or have access to the comprehensive parts lookup?

Post the last 8 digits of your VIN and see if @915_Tahoe can help. He is great at finding things like this.

 

[OR VietVet]

What are the freakin' odds that not having that isolator in there is the cause of your problems. I know you said you (shimmed) or something like that, to rig the valve but maybe the lack of the isolator finally caught up to you. Crazy.

 

[OffRoadN]

What are the freakin' odds that not having that isolator in there is the cause of your problems. I know you said you (shimmed) or something like that, to rig the valve but maybe the lack of the isolator finally caught up to you. Crazy.

Originally slim because there is an o-ring on the bottom of the valve that seals it and it's in great shape and has plenty of sealing capability. HOWEVER, I too thought the same thing which is why I kept it on my buddies purge valve when doing the swap. Thus, it's now on my vehicle and the same problem happened when I added four gallons of gasoline right after the swap. As such, I think we can eliminate this isolator as being the cause of the problem (but great thought!).

Edit: Additionally, my valve (with my washer shims) is currently on his Suburban and I'm going to wait a couple weeks before switching them back. This way we'll see if he has any problems whatsoever when refueling.

 

[OR VietVet]

Originally slim because there is an o-ring on the bottom of the valve that seals it and it's in great shape and has plenty of sealing capability. HOWEVER, I too thought the same thing which is why I kept it on my buddies purge valve when doing the swap. Thus, it's now on my vehicle and the same problem happened when I added four gallons of gasoline right after the swap. As such, I think we can eliminate this isolator as being the cause of the problem (but great thought!).

Edit: Additionally, my valve (with my washer shims) is currently on his Suburban and I'm going to wait a couple weeks before switching them back. This way we'll see if he has any problems whatsoever when refueling.

Yea, should have noted it, that I saw the o-ring and knew that was the actual seal of the valve but I was just grasping on to the idea that the isolator is there for a reason and wanted to throw the idea out there. Crazy....