How many miles did you get out of your original Transmission?

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Scott in AZ

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My 2001 Yukon 4WD has 171K miles on the original 4L60E transmission (RPO code M30). It still runs fine.

I have the heavy duty trailering package with an automatic transmission fluid cooler, and have been careful to change the automatic transmission fluid every 30-40K miles. I’ve dropped the pan to clean/replace filter and flushed ATF 5 times in 22 years of ownership. I also have a 3.73 pinion drive gear ratio. I think all this - ATF cooler, higher drive ratio and the regular service has contributed to my 4L60E reliability. Plus I drive OG-EZ on the pedal.

I’m glad to read I may get another 30K to 100K+ miles on this OEM transmission. Fingers crossed, but we make our own luck, right? I’ve learned a ton in the forum since joining this year, and enjoyed reading this thread. Maybe I should consider proactively replacing the torque converter?
 

Trey Hardy

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2009 suburban- went out at 125k. I purchases with 122k, fluid looked good, but no way of knowing maintenance history. Just curious what those of you got out of the original tranny, especially if you are an original owner. My in laws sold their 1 owner with 230k and original tranny.

Just wondering if the Chevy 100k miles stigma is real....
I’m over 350,000 on what I believe is the original in my tahoe
My Silverado is at 235,000 and the converter is finally giving out on me now but partially from my driving style in the truck…
 

mikeyss

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183k from my 6L80. It just went out last week, it just dumps fluid out from the inspection cover area. It stood up to almost 100 horsepower over stock for the last 2 years, so I can't complain.
 

B-train

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Likewise! I'm patiently waiting for the engine to dump itself so I can drop in a non-DOD replacement. It'll probably happen next summer in Nowhere, Nebraska while we're running the Oregon Trail.
I did the Oregon trail last summer. I did the Missouri to WY portion. At the beginning it's neat, but the Kansas section into Nebraska is quite boring - just flat gravel roads with lots of corn fields. It gets better on the western portion that goes into WY. Be aware that the map will take you into a few portions that cross private property and you are supposed to get clearance. It's a PITA, so I bypassed those sections.

It's beautiful, have fun!
 

BG1988

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I did a proactive rebuild on my 09 6l80 at about 180k.
I didn't see much wrong with it, clutches had plenty of life, bushings were fine.
only issue I found was in the 2-4 clutch pack.
It had a broken wave plate.
No symptoms at all, I don't think it would have affected it long term.

biggest thing to watch out for is the converter.
These are known to burn clutches due to the amount of slippage that's allowed.
Most recommend to replace the converter as a proactive measure since it will take out the transmisison/pump when it goes.


And my original converter was fine, I tore it apart and I found plenty of clutch material left.
View attachment 396204

They seem pretty stout IMO.
mine doesn't have a torque converter :oops:
 

BG1988

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not this Gen, but I have a 96 with what I believe is the original 4l60e with 325k miles on it. I dropped the pan and did the filter when I first got it, like 20 years ago at this point with high 100k range I wanna say 175k but not sure, it's been forever ago and 3 states haha. but since then I've used the vacuum extractor to suck out the fluid from the dip stick and top it back off. it only gets like 3 or 4qt out, but done it probably 5 or 6 times now. it's still going.

funny it's had a slight delay to shift into reverse since I got it, when I first got it it was like eh, it will need a tranny soon but it's a good deal. so I picked it up. still going all these years later.

I feel like good fluid is the best thing for these trannys. that and keeping them cool. mine has the tow package, so all the extras coolers.

my 2011 has the hybrid tranny that I believe is based off a Allison hybrid bus tranny tech back then, just smaller in a multi manufacture collaboration to bring it to the truck world. 145k, never seems to get over 167deg even when towing, doesn't have a torque converter but does have some electric motors and some veritable gear ratio thing going on. so no clue what the life expectancy of it is, but I plan to keep fresh fluid in it and just got a test sample back from Blackstone labs and it seems all is good wear wise from there.

if you're curious, a fluid sample test will tell you a lot about what kinda wear you have going on.
the life expectancy is how ever long the engine last....

mine barely touches 160F even if it's 100-110F outside

. :bleh:

I raced a guy with a DURAMAX lets just say he lost while my engine was barely spinning at 2400 rpm he could not even keep up with me..
NEVER was going to let him Roll coal on me ... now he can tell his friends he lost to a hybrid with Prius batteries in it..


if it has fresh or working batteries it sounds like the bus as well...
 

RoosterTX

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2005 Tahoe with 5.3, purchased new, 192k with original drivetrain. I've seldom towed anything with it, a few vehicles and utility trailers, but always in "3" with tow/haul mode. Actually, i always drive in "3" (loaded and unloaded) until getting on the highway. Its always been driven conservatively, never hotrodded. At 60k when i did the first pan drop and filter change, i installed a drain plug on the trans pan. Ever since then, i've dropped and replaced the fluid in the pan (about 1 gal) at every 5k oil change interval. I do my own maintenance, this adds very little to the maintenance expense and is very simple to do. Have also continued to drop the pan and repl internal filter every 60k, so this has been done 3x now. I've never discovered anything more than a minimal amount of shavings etc in the pan. In my opinion, the Tahoe still drives about like it did when i bought it.
 

Marky Dissod

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2005 Tahoe with 5.3, purchased new, 192k with original drivetrain.
I've seldom towed anything with it, a few vehicles and utility trailers, but always in "3" with tow/haul mode.
Actually, i always drive in "3" (loaded and unloaded) until getting on the highway.
It's always been driven conservatively, never hotrodded.
As much as this may very well be a good idea - and you'd likely know the quirks of your route as pertains to your vehicle far better than I - what you are accomplishing in terms of your 4L60E would be improved upon by a tune that mimics your behavior (the closer the better).
 

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