WildernessJeep
Full Access Member
This is a tech write-up for my own question, and is how to upgrade the fog lights and install an LED lightbar, so they automatically come on depending on which factory light (Hi or Lo) is being selected by the driver.
I ordered a set of PIAA 510 Crystal Ion fog lights from Amazon and a CREE combination Driving/Spot 26-inch LED lightbar, also from amazon. Total order was a little over $300 for both.
I am working on a 2005 Yukon Denali, with the full bumper cover. I'll break up the installation into two parts: Fog lights and lightbar.
FOG LIGHT INSTALLATION: This is the easy part, and is mostly plug and play. Simply remove the factory light brackets from the rear, drill a hole, mount the new lights, and change the plug on the factory harness.
1) Using a 10mm deep socket, take the bracket with factory light out.
2) Drill one 11/32" hole centered, exactly one inch from the front of the bracket. If you drill too far forward, you won't have enough clearance for the lower bracket mounting bolt. You may have to trim the factory tabs off to have clearance for the new light if you drill too far back.
3) Note the two sides have DIFFERENT brackets. You'll have to measure and check each one separately.
4) Remove factory plug from harness, and replace with the female plug from the PIAA harness. Reinstall lights and brackets, adjust beams as needed.
LED LIGHTBAR INSTALLATION: This is where it gets tricky. I used the PIAA harness from the light kit, which simplified the installation considerably. The lightbar uses 9.6 amps, and the PIAA harness has a 20 amp fuse/relay in it, so it should be strong enough to handle extended use.
1) Start by removing the dumb black chin spoiler that looks like it was painted in by a drunk clown. Throw it away or burn it. It deserves both.
2) Place-fit the lightbar with brackets. Pay attention and take some time. There are several ways to mount it, some might be better for your use and options. My truck fit the brackets very nicely to the tow hook bolt directly under the frame. I used two 4" pieces of 2x2 angle iron, drilled with a 1/2" hole for the tow hook and 11/32" for the lightbar brackets.
I painted the brackets black and waited 24 hours for the paint to dry.
3) Mount the lightbar loosely, then bolt it tight from the top down. It helps if you have someone else hold the bar in the correct aiming position while you tighten everything up (I used an extra battery to aim it while mounting). I also used some quick-ties around the back of the lightbar securing the lower part of the bumper to the upper part so it doesn't flop around (the stupid chin spoiler actually did provide some support, even if it looked dumb doing it).
4) Remove the battery, fuse box cover and surround, driver's headlamp and parking light.
5) Splice the "switch power" line to the high beam positive light. Don't forget the solder!
6) Wire the rest of the PIAA harness according to the instructions. I ran to one of the positive studs in the fuse box and grounded to the battery tray. This part is both the most simple and time consuming part of the installation. Just take your time and follow the PIAA instructions.
7) I did not run the on/off switch inside the cabin, but could have. I elected to quick mount it to the firewall and if I ever don't want the lightbar to come on with my high beams, I can just open the hood and hit the switch. Maybe I'll run it inside while I am doing the intermediate shaft in a couple of weeks.
THE FINISHED PRODUCT:
Eventually I elected to remove the PIAA rock guards for the fog lights just because they look better without it and I don't think they will get as hot (bulb life) without the valence.
The light output from both is AMAZING! The Denali headlights were never shabby, but I have more light now on low beam than I used to have on High beam. On high beam it looks like landing lights are at work. It really is amazing. And I got rid of that stupid chin spoiler.
I ordered a set of PIAA 510 Crystal Ion fog lights from Amazon and a CREE combination Driving/Spot 26-inch LED lightbar, also from amazon. Total order was a little over $300 for both.
I am working on a 2005 Yukon Denali, with the full bumper cover. I'll break up the installation into two parts: Fog lights and lightbar.
FOG LIGHT INSTALLATION: This is the easy part, and is mostly plug and play. Simply remove the factory light brackets from the rear, drill a hole, mount the new lights, and change the plug on the factory harness.
1) Using a 10mm deep socket, take the bracket with factory light out.
2) Drill one 11/32" hole centered, exactly one inch from the front of the bracket. If you drill too far forward, you won't have enough clearance for the lower bracket mounting bolt. You may have to trim the factory tabs off to have clearance for the new light if you drill too far back.
3) Note the two sides have DIFFERENT brackets. You'll have to measure and check each one separately.
4) Remove factory plug from harness, and replace with the female plug from the PIAA harness. Reinstall lights and brackets, adjust beams as needed.
LED LIGHTBAR INSTALLATION: This is where it gets tricky. I used the PIAA harness from the light kit, which simplified the installation considerably. The lightbar uses 9.6 amps, and the PIAA harness has a 20 amp fuse/relay in it, so it should be strong enough to handle extended use.
1) Start by removing the dumb black chin spoiler that looks like it was painted in by a drunk clown. Throw it away or burn it. It deserves both.
2) Place-fit the lightbar with brackets. Pay attention and take some time. There are several ways to mount it, some might be better for your use and options. My truck fit the brackets very nicely to the tow hook bolt directly under the frame. I used two 4" pieces of 2x2 angle iron, drilled with a 1/2" hole for the tow hook and 11/32" for the lightbar brackets.
I painted the brackets black and waited 24 hours for the paint to dry.
3) Mount the lightbar loosely, then bolt it tight from the top down. It helps if you have someone else hold the bar in the correct aiming position while you tighten everything up (I used an extra battery to aim it while mounting). I also used some quick-ties around the back of the lightbar securing the lower part of the bumper to the upper part so it doesn't flop around (the stupid chin spoiler actually did provide some support, even if it looked dumb doing it).
4) Remove the battery, fuse box cover and surround, driver's headlamp and parking light.
5) Splice the "switch power" line to the high beam positive light. Don't forget the solder!
6) Wire the rest of the PIAA harness according to the instructions. I ran to one of the positive studs in the fuse box and grounded to the battery tray. This part is both the most simple and time consuming part of the installation. Just take your time and follow the PIAA instructions.
7) I did not run the on/off switch inside the cabin, but could have. I elected to quick mount it to the firewall and if I ever don't want the lightbar to come on with my high beams, I can just open the hood and hit the switch. Maybe I'll run it inside while I am doing the intermediate shaft in a couple of weeks.
THE FINISHED PRODUCT:
Eventually I elected to remove the PIAA rock guards for the fog lights just because they look better without it and I don't think they will get as hot (bulb life) without the valence.
The light output from both is AMAZING! The Denali headlights were never shabby, but I have more light now on low beam than I used to have on High beam. On high beam it looks like landing lights are at work. It really is amazing. And I got rid of that stupid chin spoiler.
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