Hurts Taking One Like This

[YukonRog]

Update: Been calling around getting quotes from shops and this one very friendly guy said the chain and the pump wouldn't be moving when in Park. He suggested the servo motor is attempting to engage. And that was one of my 1st thoughts. So I'm going to refill it and pull the servo motor off and see if it still makes that noise. Wish me luck!

 

[Fless]

Good luck! And don't actuate the encoder motor while it's off the T/C. You can also manually attempt to change the T/C mode (2wd, neutral, etc.) using a pliers or channel lock on the shaft, but return it back to where you started from when you were removing the encoder motor. You may have to wiggle the rear propshaft to take the tension off of it while manually changing modes.

Also curious about the shape of the shaft -- is it two flats or a splined shaft? Believe these later model NBSes to be a splined shaft.

 

[YukonRog]

Good luck! And don't actuate the encoder motor while it's off the T/C. You can also manually attempt to change the T/C mode (2wd, neutral, etc.) using a pliers or channel lock on the shaft, but return it back to where you started from when you were removing the encoder motor. You may have to wiggle the rear propshaft to take the tension off of it while manually changing modes.

Also curious about the shape of the shaft -- is it two flats or a splined shaft? Believe these later model NBSes to be a splined shaft.

Thanks Fless! I'd be dumb enough to hold the encoder in my hand to see if it cycled! LOL! I'll update.

 

[Fless]

If you get to the point of pulling propshafts be sure to document the number of splines on those shafts. Just so you know what you have, for exchange or parts ordering.

 

[YukonRog]

Okay guys, here's what I did. Found AC Delco Auto -Trak II fluid at my local Napa Auto Parts for under $10 qt. Refilled the TC. Switched it into Neutral, pulled the front prop shaft, and then removed the Encoder Motor. Started it and thought I heard something for a split second. Crawled back under and with a small pair of pliers in the widest adjustment, rotated the shaft counterclockwise. Real easy to move. Fless, you can move the shaft manually, and the encoder if it's plugged in by pushing whatever button you want. You just have to make sure they both are in the same position when reinstalling. By moving the shaft manually I believe one direction is 4 high and the other is 4 low. Started it back up and sure enough it was making the same noise. Put it all back together after realigning the shaft to the Neutral position and dropped it to the ground. Tested it in all the gears. It goes into all the gears great. Auto 4x4, 2 wheel, 4 high, Neutral, and 4 Low. Drives but makes that noise briefly in every gear. So I'm not going to drive it. The noise sounds like it's coming from the front shaft output inside the TC. I now don't believe this guy that told me the chain and pump don't move unless it's in 4x4 mode. How else could it be making this noise? Angry, tired, and disappointed. Guess it's gotta come out. I appreciate everyone's input and will welcome more if you have any!

 

[blueinkd]

Oops. Wrong thread

 

[YukonRog]

So has anyone of you all ever rebuilt one of these transfer cases? I've been watching a lot of the videos from Precision Transmission and they actually look doable. The tech does say in one the oil pumps usually never go bad. So, I'm wondering if I just replace mine while it's open or leave it? Same with the clutch pack.

 

[Tonyrodz]

So has anyone of you all ever rebuilt one of these transfer cases? I've been watching a lot of the videos from Precision Transmission and they actually look doable. The tech does say in one the oil pumps usually never go bad. So, I'm wondering if I just replace mine while it's open or leave it? Same with the clutch pack.

If it's cheap enough I'd do it--mihht as well while it's apart.

 

[YukonRog]

If it's cheap enough I'd do it--mihht as well while it's apart.

That's what I'm struggling with. My Darned OCD has me going back and forth. $50 is the least expensive clutch pack I can find and $35 for a pump. But that blows the heck out of a Benjamin right? And here's the real head scratcher, buy a new rear half case that's the "reinforced, improved" version and they still recommend a case saver for the pump wear issues. That's cheap enough but why then buy a "reinforced" case? My thought process is if it sounds like chain drag (which I really don't see how) or pump knock, then I'm covered and can return the case if I don't need it. I really hate my brain. LOL!

 

[Rocket Man]

That's what I'm struggling with. My Darned OCD has me going back and forth. $50 is the least expensive clutch pack I can find and $35 for a pump. But that blows the heck out of a Benjamin right? And here's the real head scratcher, buy a new rear half case that's the "reinforced, improved" version and they still recommend a case saver for the pump wear issues. That's cheap enough but why then buy a "reinforced" case? My thought process is if it sounds like chain drag (which I really don't see how) or pump knock, then I'm covered and can return the case if I don't need it. I really hate my brain. LOL!

To me, my labor is worth a lot more than a couple hundred in parts. I’m not ok with doing things twice or doing them halfway. I figure with the labor I’m saving, part of that money can go into better parts and I’m ahead in more ways than one. Once you’ve pulled that thing out, you won’t want to do it again, believe me. There isn’t a jack made that can get that thing into position so you get to bench press it.